Form 1 Can / Solvent Trap

[LFD2037]

I'm looking @ building one but don't know much @ all. I want one to use on both my 6.5 CM & .308. I'm looking @ a 7.6" Ti tube. I picked:
2 x 1.5" cups aluminum
4 x .75" cups aluminum
1 x 1.5" spacer Ti
That equals 7.5". What about the other .10"? Any reason to buy more .75" cups as opposed to 1.5" cups? Is a spacer a waste & should use more cups?
Thanks.

[westtexducks]

Where did you cups come from?

Parts list? Length?

White trash tactical for the 4 TI stepped cups with .5" skirt

Pure Performance Armory for the 2 heat treated 60* SS with .75" skirt

Super Precision Concepts Spacer material 4" TI tube

SD Tactical 6.8" titanium tube D tube with 1.355 ID, 1/2x28 cap, and blank drill your own cap all titanium parts.

Everything is titanium except for the first 2 cups which are heat treated stainless since they do all the work right out of the gate to help them last longer. I have right at $610 dollars with stamp in this one. I may add another cup but not sure yet.

[westtexducks]

I'm looking @ building one but don't know much @ all. I want one to use on both my 6.5 CM & .308. I'm looking @ a 7.6" Ti tube. I picked:
2 x 1.5" cups aluminum
4 x .75" cups aluminum
1 x 1.5" spacer Ti
That equals 7.5". What about the other .10"? Any reason to buy more .75" cups as opposed to 1.5" cups? Is a spacer a waste & should use more cups?
Thanks.

I would make your first cups stainless steel then run TI then if you just have to run aluminum make your last 2 but honestly I would not run any from what I have been seeing in my research they won't survive long in a high pressure round, mostly just good for .22 cans only. Your stepped design suppossedly works good but the other way around, bigger chambers towards the rifle end and progressively smaller chambers towards the end. Everything I am seeing is showing for the big stuff a 8+ size cans is recommended to be quieter but I am just running on an AR so went with 6.8" but I should be able to run this on any of my centerfires long as I don't get it stupid hot.

[bboswell]

White trash tactical for the 4 TI stepped cups with .5" skirt

Pure Performance Armory for the 2 heat treated 60* SS with .75" skirt

Super Precision Concepts Spacer material 4" TI tube

SD Tactical 6.8" titanium tube D tube with 1.355 ID, 1/2x28 cap, and blank drill your own cap all titanium parts.

Everything is titanium except for the first 2 cups which are heat treated stainless since they do all the work right out of the gate to help them last longer. I have right at $610 dollars with stamp in this one. I may add another cup but not sure yet.

I like those longer skirts, the ones I got from WTT had short skirts

[LFD2037]

I would make your first cups stainless steel then run TI then if you just have to run aluminum make your last 2 but honestly I would not run any from what I have been seeing in my research they won't survive long in a high pressure round, mostly just good for .22 cans only. Your stepped design suppossedly works good but the other way around, bigger chambers towards the rifle end and progressively smaller chambers towards the end. Everything I am seeing is showing for the big stuff a 8+ size cans is recommended to be quieter but I am just running on an AR so went with 6.8" but I should be able to run this on any of my centerfires long as I don't get it stupid hot.

I’ll be running it on an AR10 6.5 20” bbl and AR10 .308 18” bbl. Sometimes on a 6.5 bolt gun with 24” bbl. I don’t want to spend a bunch on it and would be happy with 50% sound decrease but the more the better.
Weight isn’t too much of an issue to me either but length is as I’ll usually be in a blind. I won’t be doing much walking with any of it.

[westtexducks]

I’ll be running it on an AR10 6.5 20” bbl and AR10 .308 18” bbl. Sometimes on a 6.5 bolt gun with 24” bbl. I don’t want to spend a bunch on it and would be happy with 50% sound decrease but the more the better.
Weight isn’t too much of an issue to me either but length is as I’ll usually be in a blind. I won’t be doing much walking with any of it.

This was one of the builds I was looking at doing later for my magnums and large centerfire rifles. From the Form1 suppressor board this was going on a 6.5 creed

SPC Ti Pro taper mount.
SPC 9" Ti tube, 1.625".
SPC Ti end cap.
1.69" Ti blast chamber spacer
12 1.497 SS baffles
Baffle spacing....
3@ 0.71"
2@ 0.61"
3@ 0.50"
4@ 0.36"
Baffles are single clipped.
And she weighed in at whopping 20 oz.

[bboswell]

This was one of the builds I was looking at doing later for my magnums and large centerfire rifles. From the Form1 suppressor board this was going on a 6.5 creed



SPC Ti Pro taper mount.

SPC 9" Ti tube, 1.625".

SPC Ti end cap.

1.69" Ti blast chamber spacer

12 1.497 SS baffles

Baffle spacing....

3@ 0.71"

2@ 0.61"

3@ 0.50"

4@ 0.36"

Baffles are single clipped.

And she weighed in at whopping 20 oz.

Were the clips aligned?

[westtexducks]

Were the clips aligned?

Yes

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

[Bullseye07]

I’ll be running it on an AR10 6.5 20” bbl and AR10 .308 18” bbl. Sometimes on a 6.5 bolt gun with 24” bbl. I don’t want to spend a bunch on it and would be happy with 50% sound decrease but the more the better.
Weight isn’t too much of an issue to me either but length is as I’ll usually be in a blind. I won’t be doing much walking with any of it.

Be aware, you will not get anywhere close to a 50% decrease with either weapon you mention. That would put you around 85ish decibels. Not happening.


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[LFD2037]

Be aware, you will not get anywhere close to a 50% decrease with either weapon you mention. That would put you around 85ish decibels. Not happening.


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Hmm. I’ve shot a .308 AR10 that sounded pretty darn quiet. I certainly didn’t need hearing protection. What is the average sound decrease with a .308?

[Bullseye07]

With most form 4 cans your dB levels with .308 are anywhere 135ish-145ish.

Unsuppressed .308 is around 170+.


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[bboswell]

Yes

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You have any pics that show how that was done?

[westtexducks]

You have any pics that show how that was done?

Screw end cap on and use a then file or dowel rod paint stick cut down etc. Drop in last spacer and then tighten up other cap on it is what I am reading on how to do it. Can't find any pics but this seems to be the consesus on how to do it. The Facebook group is also a ton of help.

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

[bboswell]

Screw end cap on and use a then file or dowel rod paint stick cut down etc. Drop in last spacer and then tighten up other cap on it is what I am reading on how to do it. Can't find any pics but this seems to be the consesus on how to do it. The Facebook group is also a ton of help.

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

Gotya, I have seen that but I have also seen cups that had a t i t on the bottom and a hole on the top so one cup would engage the other to prevent rotation and that’s the design I want to copy

[Quackerbox]

A buddy was telling me about this this week and low and behold a thread is here. Soooo...I get how its all done but whats the advantage of buying parts from 3-4 places vs. getting a kit from someone like quietbore?

FWIW Im kicking around a pistol can to run on a 9mm and possibly on a lever gun in .38/.357