Reloaders, two questions

[txfireguy2003]

Totally wrong! Tikkas are extremely accurate and easy to load for.


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Okay, yeah, that's what I thought. I was sleep deprived, sorry for the misread?

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[kmon]

We all want the perfect seating depth but with quite a few rifle/chamber/cartridge/bullet combinations that cannot be reached without turning a repeating rifle into a single shot which most do not want for a hunting rifle.

For hunting rounds I start at max functioning magazine length and go from there unless the combination is getting into the lands (which it usually doesn't) on many factory rifles and chambers.

[txfireguy2003]

We all want the perfect seating depth but with quite a few rifle/chamber/cartridge/bullet combinations that cannot be reached without turning a repeating rifle into a single shot which most do not want for a hunting rifle.

For hunting rounds I start at max functioning magazine length and go from there unless the combination is getting into the lands (which it usually doesn't) on many factory rifles and chambers.

Thats pretty much what I do as well, but on this particular rifle, with a standard length action and magazine box, but the little short 22-250 rounds, there's plenty of room.

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[Mike D]

Seating gradually until it will chamber without effort.


Not if you get consistent and repeatable measurements with it.


I know a lot of people like them, but I didn't like the cheap plastic feel of the OAL and sent it back. More expensive, but I use the RCBS Precision Mics and they are good... real good. Fast, easy, extremely accurate, repeatable... e'ertang.... and $50 per caliber.



I'd like to see an argument for that. I've heard some folks say they don't think it makes a difference, but it is very easy to demonstrate that in some rifles with some loads it absolutely does.

The plunger rod is the only thing that is plastic. I don’t see how that would be an issue unless you are trying to jam deep into the lands.

[softpoint]

I have partial boxes of Barnes X bullets in about 5 calibers. A few of my rifles shoot them as good as any other other bullet. Most of my rifles do not. I don't question their killing power on game, I think they are great for that, but getting them to shoot well is a different story. That bullet you are shooting is a pretty long bullet. You might try a lighter version of it.

[kmon]

True about the 22-250 Is a short round. For seating depth we used a couple different methods for determining seating depth both are more time consuming and not necessarily as accurate as the Sinclair or Hornady tools or even the split neck tools most use today for getting best length.


With the Barnes bullets being longer with more bearing surface (relieved some by the groves) and slower powders seem to work well with them like one would use with in this case the 75 gr cup and core bullets. I would try https://imrpowder.com/imr-enduron-4451/ Select the cartridge and bullet weight on that page for data for the 22-250 with the Barnes Tac bullet. the enduron powders have better temperature stability than CFE with the copper fouling reduction of CFE. They are an extruded powder so do not meter as well though.

Some generalizations with powder selection slower burn rate powders usually have wider accuracy nodes than their faster counter parts which is not a bad thing.

[ColinR]

I load the 64 gr. Nosler Bonded Performance bullets for my son's 22-250 using H4350. Can't remember the amount though. I load them .03 off the lands. For my measurement I use the method listed in the Nosler reloading manual.....take a case fired in the rifle you are working on, press the opening on the neck against something to make a small indention so the bullet does not fall into the case, just using your hands not the press place a bullet into the neck, using a marker color the bullet, then chamber the round fully closing the bolt, then retrieve the casing and bullet. Sometimes the bullet is still in the case and you can measure the OAL, sometimes the bullet is stuck in the lands and you have to retrieve the bullet if that is the case you can see how far the bullet was pressed into the case by the coloring being scratched by the case. Press the bullet back into the case to the point indicated by the scratch in the coloring then measure your OAL.

[Slick8]

I agree that the Hornady tool is great, easy and repeatable.

I'm running W760 in a 22-250AI and 70-80 grain bullets with excellent results.

[Gummi Bear]

I'd like to see an argument for that. I've heard some folks say they don't think it makes a difference, but it is very easy to demonstrate that in some rifles with some loads it absolutely does.

I believe it does.

After reading several papers, and several anecdotes about others’ experiences, I decided to give it a try. (My main focus was on Barnes and Berger bullets, and their response to seating depth)

This is an excellent article:

http://www.bergerbullets.com/getting-the-best-precision-and-accuracy-from-vld-bullets-in-your-rifle/

This is my range worksheet





In Test #2, .090” off the lands yielding the best group. The 1.5” group was a mistake, and my daughter called that she pulled that shot as soon as she touched off the trigger. She was excited because the first two were a ragged hole. It was about to be smaller than the first group

I shot another group the next weekend with that same load and seating depth, and got just under .500”


This has been the most dramatic example of seating depth in load development that I have encountered yet.



I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

[meltingfeather]

The plunger rod is the only thing that is plastic. I don’t see how that would be an issue unless you are trying to jam deep into the lands.

Just felt cheap... unlike all my other reloading tooling. I like the concept and I’m sure it works fine, but my Precision Mics are no doubt higher quality and I use them all the time, versus the one-purpose OAL gauge.

[Cajun Blake]

What's your favorite way to determine seating depth, without using a special tool? I'll probably buy the tool sooner or later, but I dont have it tonight.

but I find myself using my own cases with the split Nick more often for some reason. I really just like using them better.

I full length size the case and then run a neck turning expander in the neck. I then split the neck with a Dremel cutting wheel and file down any burrs inside and outside the neck. Adjust the case neck tension when inserting the bullet so it does not hold the bullet too tight or loose. Chamber the round and remove carefully and measure the resulting length.

First drill out the primer pocket to accept a finish nail to push out the seated bullet.


Next split one side of the case neck with the Dremel and file smooth.


Case with finish nail to push bullet back out for more test seating.

[sierracharlie338]

Hornady gauge has worked for me so far. Im not a benchrest shooter looking for sub 1/4 moa precision either. I am completely satisfied with 1/2 groups at 100. Everything else is my fault hahaha