Reloaders, two questions

[txfireguy2003]

So, I purchased a Tikka T3x in 22-250 with 1-8 twist. Very nice rifle (of only it had a nicer stock, but I'll live with it for now) and I'm trying to run 62gr Barnes TTSX. I picked up 100 pieces of Lapua brass (very nice stuff, but dang it's $$$), 100 bullets, and I had everything else I needed. I had a pound of CFE 223, and it meters so nice, and load data suggested good velocities from it, so that's where I went with it. So on running 62gr TTSX over 37gr of CFE223 in Lapua brass with CCI BR2 benchrest primers. Velocity wasn't quite what was predicted, about 100fps short, but 3450 is still nothing to scoff at, but the accuracy was terrible. 1.25 MOA was about as good as it got. So here's my questions:

What's your favorite 22-250 load assuming a heavier bullet (I know this might be tough since most 22-250's don't have a fast twist).

What's your favorite way to determine seating depth, without using a special tool? I'll probably buy the tool sooner or later, but I dont have it tonight.

The reason I ask about seating depth is because I know Barnes bullets are a little different than most, and they like to be 50 thou off the lands. I went with the overall length shown in the data to start, but after shooting so terribly, I came back and checked how far off the lands that put me, and the best I can figure, I'm about 0.125 off the lands, way too far. The way I tested it was to neck size a case (a federal case, not Lapua) and cut a slit in the neck with my dremell tool, cleaned up the burrs, and adjusted it until it just held the bullet in place, then I set a bullet in it, leaving it long, and chambered it. Once I ejected the round, I could tell the bullet had been pushed into the case by the lands. Measuring that, and subtracting the length of my loaded rounds gave me 0.125". Does anyone see a problem with this method?

On my next attempt, I'll set them up .050 off the lands and go from there.

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[Sleepy]

I’m new to reloading, but I measured to the ogive the same way. May be a few thou off, but should get you pretty dang close I’d think. And my loads are looking pretty dang good out of a factory rifle.

[Mike D]

Dang Luke as much loading as you do you need the Hornady OAL gauge and modified cases.

I’ve not had a lot of success with accuracy using CFE223. Velocity is usually great but grouping are usually just meh.

I like RL powders and get great velocity and groups with it. In my 22-250 Ackley I use RL17 with bullets in the 70-75 grain range with great results.

For just basic fire forming using 55 grain M193 I just use H380.

Other than that I don’t have a lot of solutions to offer.


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[RifleBowPistol]

That's a good start. Commonly, I just resize a case, seat a bullet long in it and chamber it. That's usually how I check. Your way should work just fine.

I don't know what you plan to shoot with the Barnes, hopefully paper or steel. I have had poor results from those bullets expanding worth a crap. I get small entrance and small exit wounds with the two different Barnes I have tried. I talked to a buddy who loaded them in his 270 Win. Short Mag, he said they did not expand very well even in the short mag. If you had a 27 to 30 caliber gun and were after something like elk, moose or brown bear. They would likely be a good choice. On whitetail and muleys they don't open up very well. If you are loading for deer, a heavier bullet may be a good idea, but not sure how well those will do.

As for the CFE 223, should be a very good powder. I have used it in multiple calibers, works very well. You might also try Leverevolution, same powder without the anti copper fouling chemical. You will get a little higher velocity with the Leverevolution.
As for my 22-250 loads, I used BL-C, BL-C(2) or 414. I found them all very close in performance, both accuracy and velocity. With the 414 having a very slight advantage. I always used 55 gr. bullets. With any of those powders, I would get around 3850 fps. Very tight groups.
As for the distance from the rifling, try between .030" and .050", see what it likes best. Also getting a chronograph, is good idea. It sounds like you have one. Look for load that produce velocities, with the least variation. My better loads will have velocity variations of 4 fps to 5 fps. When you get loads that do that, you have a good powder and consistent case volume.

[Gummi Bear]

Some may disagree, but I like to try different seating depths

You may find they like to be seated even deeper. Stick with that powder charge, and build some loads with varying depths up to .120 off the lands.

My buddy seats his .090 (IIRC) off the lands in his 338 Lapua.



I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

[hardtner]

Dang Luke as much loading as you do you need the Hornady OAL gauge and modified cases.

I’ve not had a lot of success with accuracy using CFE223. Velocity is usually great but grouping are usually just meh.

I like RL powders and get great velocity and groups with it. In my 22-250 Ackley I use RL17 with bullets in the 70-75 grain range with great results.

For just basic fire forming using 55 grain M193 I just use H380.

Other than that I don’t have a lot of solutions to offer.


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I have the Hornady modified cases, but I find myself using my own cases with the split Nick more often for some reason. I really just like using them better.

I run 60 gr. Partitions over IMR 4350

Most of my rifles are from kissing to 20 thou off. Usually I end up about 10 thou off on most

[txfireguy2003]

Dang Luke as much loading as you do you need the Hornady OAL gauge and modified cases.

I’ve not had a lot of success with accuracy using CFE223. Velocity is usually great but grouping are usually just meh.

I like RL powders and get great velocity and groups with it. In my 22-250 Ackley I use RL17 with bullets in the 70-75 grain range with great results.

For just basic fire forming using 55 grain M193 I just use H380.

Other than that I don’t have a lot of solutions to offer.


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I agree, and I'll probably get it sooner or later, but I've never had any problems dealing with seating depth before really. Ib usually load *** long as the magazine will allow for factory rifles, or used the sewing depth recommended by the data, and that's always been fine. Can't do that with the 22-250, the bullets wouldn't be in the case at all. The main reason I don't have the gauge is because of cost.... I have several different chambers, so I'd have to buy a ton of modified cases. I know, they ain't that expensive, "you'll spend a grand on a rifle but not 25 on tools?".....Yeah I know, it's just my weird ways I guess.

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[Mike D]

I have the Hornady modified cases, but I find myself using my own cases with the split Nick more often for some reason. I really just like using them better.

I run 60 gr. Partitions over IMR 4350

Most of my rifles are from kissing to 20 thou off. Usually I end up about 10 thou off on most

I k is people have been doing it that way for a long time but there are better methods available.


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[Mike D]

I agree, and I'll probably get it sooner or later, but I've never had any problems dealing with seating depth before really. Ib usually load *** long as the magazine will allow for factory rifles, or used the sewing depth recommended by the data, and that's always been fine. Can't do that with the 22-250, the bullets wouldn't be in the case at all. The main reason I don't have the gauge is because of cost.... I have several different chambers, so I'd have to buy a ton of modified cases. I know, they ain't that expensive, "you'll spend a grand on a rifle but not 25 on tools?".....Yeah I know, it's just my weird ways I guess.

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The good thing about the lnl gauge is repeatability. I’ve used the split neck method but I found myself getting different measurements. I ended up taking the average of 3.


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[txfireguy2003]

The good thing about the lnl gauge is repeatability. I’ve used the split neck method but I found myself getting different measurements. I ended up taking the average of 3.


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I can see that. I only measured twice, but both readings were the same, which surprised me. It was tight enough that I could feel the grooves in the bullet passing the case mouth, so it held pretty firm, but not firm enough to jam into the lands, if that makes sense.

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[WTucker]

I agree, and I'll probably get it sooner or later, but I've never had any problems dealing with seating depth before really. Ib usually load *** long as the magazine will allow for factory rifles, or used the sewing depth recommended by the data, and that's always been fine. Can't do that with the 22-250, the bullets wouldn't be in the case at all. The main reason I don't have the gauge is because of cost.... I have several different chambers, so I'd have to buy a ton of modified cases. I know, they ain't that expensive, "you'll spend a grand on a rifle but not 25 on tools?".....Yeah I know, it's just my weird ways I guess.

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If you want, you can make your own cases for the hornady tool. I spent $12 on a tap and it more than paid for itself with all the cases I have made.

[hardtner]

The good thing about the lnl gauge is repeatability. I’ve used the split neck method but I found myself getting different measurements. I ended up taking the average of 3.


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I usually do 10 measurements throw out the outliers and then average. I just have more trouble with the bullet sticking in the lands with the Hornady.

Plus with oddball cartridges I don't have always gave an option to use a modified case. Guess I could thread them myself but don't have the tools to do it. I bought a home threaded one for my Dasher that a guy made. Also I like using that case that has been fired in my chamber. Might not make much diff but it makes me feel better.

[txfireguy2003]

If you want, you can make your own cases for the hornady tool. I spent $12 on a tap and it more than paid for itself with all the cases I have made.

What is it? 1/4-20?

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[WTucker]

No, it’s a weird size. I think 5/16-36. I will have to check. That’s why I just ordered it online.

[kmon]

I reload lots of stuff Hornady doesn't have gauges for and have been using split neck cases for years before I ever saw the Hornady gauge. For years I just seated a bullet in the brass a little at a time until it would chamber, Old reloading books method. then though about splitting the necks long before the internet. Then I started drilling and tapping the primer pocket for a threaded rod and that is what I still use.

Don't have a 22-250 with a fast twist but do shoot a 22-243 1:8 twist with 75gr Sirocco bullets and it is deadly on deer and hogs. I have a little more case capacity with it than the 22-250 case and 27 inch barrel that helps with slower burning powders. Reloader 26 gives me some very good velocities and I got that powder selection from someone with a 22 Creedmoor ( pretty much a 22-250 AI with a little different shoulder) With the Sirocco and some other 75 to 80 gr bullets 3500 is not uncommon. Have pushed the Berger 90gr VLD to 3200 where they finally grouped instead of patterning like a shotgun.

On the barnes bullets clean your barrel of all copper, before doing your load development those solid copper pills do copper foul pretty quickly at velocities that round is capable of. With the Sirocco which have a pure copper jacket accuracy starts degrading after about 30 rounds and comes back after a good cleaning. The CFE or new Enduron IMR powders with the copper eraser is a good thing with Barnes and Swift bullets. Enduron 4451 should be a good powder for the 22-250 with that weight bullet if you can find data for it.