Reloaders, two questions

[M16]

If you want, you can make your own cases for the hornady tool. I spent $12 on a tap and it more than paid for itself with all the cases I have made.

This. You can also make your own tool. I made one out of an aluminum primer tube and a few other odds and ends. I'm too frugal to buy one but did spend $10,000 on a lathe and milling machine along with tooling.

[txfireguy2003]

This. You can also make your own tool. I made one out of an aluminum primer tube and a few other odds and ends. I'm too frugal to buy one but did spend $10,000 on a lathe and milling machine along with tooling.

I want a lathe SO BAD!

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[M16]

I want a lathe SO BAD!

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I wish I would have bought one 25 years ago. I started with a mini lathe and mini mill. You can do a lot with them. But that didn't last long. Upgraded both of them this year to some larger stuff. Plan on spending just as much for tooling as the machine. It's as addicting as reloading.

[cattlelackranch]

Reloaders, two questions

Here is the tap you need.



I've had good luck with H4350



Holds together at 500

[txfireguy2003]

I wish I would have bought one 25 years ago. I started with a mini lathe and mini mill. You can do a lot with them. But that didn't last long. Upgraded both of them this year to some larger stuff. Plan on spending just as much for tooling as the machine. It's as addicting as reloading.

Are you chambering rifles yet?

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[M16]

Are you chambering rifles yet?

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Not yet. I have the machine but am lacking the knowhow.

[Livin'2hunt]

One thing about the Barnes bullets is, they have a longer bearing surface than other bullets of the same weight. Those 77 grainers are acting more like standard 87-90 grain bullets. I'm aware the twist should handle it but I'd try a lighter Barnes bullet or a different bullet in the 77 grain range. I've had very little success with getting TTSX bullets to shoot well. Plus, I never saw the hydrostatic shock I was looking for from TTSXs. You have a Tikka so, you are FAR from finished. Keep at it and keep posting.


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[txfireguy2003]

One thing about the Barnes bullets is, they have a longer bearing surface than other bullets of the same weight. Those 77 grainers are acting more like standard 87-90 grain bullets. I'm aware the twist should handle it but I'd try a lighter Barnes bullet or a different bullet in the 77 grain range. I've had very little success with getting TTSX bullets to shoot well. Plus, I never saw the hydrostatic shock I was looking for from TTSXs. You have a Tikka so, you are FAR from finished. Keep at it and keep posting.


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I'm using 62gr, not 77, but I understand your point. I'm curious about what you mean by having a Tikka so I'm far from done? Are you implying that Tikkas are hard to get to shoot, or did I read that totally wrong?

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[txfireguy2003]

Not yet. I have the machine but am lacking the knowhow.

What lathe did you end up buying? I've been looking at the Grizzly G4003G, and the Precision Matthews PM1236. I've watched many videos on building rifles and it all looks fairly straight forward assuming you have the proper tools, but I'm with you, it certainly wouldn't be the first project I tried tackling on a lathe. Maybe thread some muzzles, make a replacement screw or something, little stuff, but not dive right into chambering. I really feel like with a little practice, I could make it pay for itself with muzzle threads and rebarrels jyst for myself, maybe even get some real training and my FFL to do as a side job. I could do the majority of what a gunsmith does today, glass bedding, trigger swaps and adjustments, recoil pads etc are all pretty simple, as I've done them on my own rifles and several friend's rifles. When it comes to cutting metal on a rifle though, that's when I'm not qualified nor equipped.

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[kmon]

I'm using 62gr, not 77, but I understand your point. I'm curious about what you mean by having a Tikka so I'm far from done? Are you implying that Tikkas are hard to get to shoot, or did I read that totally wrong?

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Don't know about their experience but I find Tikka's to be easy to workup a load for. with the exception of being as accurate as the ones I have shot picking the best load takes some work. ladder test at 3 or 400 yards in light wind conditions helps narrow it down

[Sleepy]

I'm using 62gr, not 77, but I understand your point. I'm curious about what you mean by having a Tikka so I'm far from done? Are you implying that Tikkas are hard to get to shoot, or did I read that totally wrong?

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I think he is implying that Tikkas are very accurate off the shelf rifles and at 1.25” groups, you have a long ways to go as far as making it shoot the way it is capable of shooting. I own two Tikkas and just started reloading. For no more than I know about reloading, they are stacking the shots in. Your 22-250 should be .3-.4 easily once you find what it likes. The one I had would shoot .6’s with factory ammo.

[Livin'2hunt]

I'm using 62gr, not 77, but I understand your point. I'm curious about what you mean by having a Tikka so I'm far from done? Are you implying that Tikkas are hard to get to shoot, or did I read that totally wrong?

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Totally wrong! Tikkas are extremely accurate and easy to load for.


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[M16]

What lathe did you end up buying? I've been looking at the Grizzly G4003G, and the Precision Matthews PM1236. I've watched many videos on building rifles and it all looks fairly straight forward assuming you have the proper tools, but I'm with you, it certainly wouldn't be the first project I tried tackling on a lathe. Maybe thread some muzzles, make a replacement screw or something, little stuff, but not dive right into chambering. I really feel like with a little practice, I could make it pay for itself with muzzle threads and rebarrels jyst for myself, maybe even get some real training and my FFL to do as a side job. I could do the majority of what a gunsmith does today, glass bedding, trigger swaps and adjustments, recoil pads etc are all pretty simple, as I've done them on my own rifles and several friend's rifles. When it comes to cutting metal on a rifle though, that's when I'm not qualified nor equipped.

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I wound up getting a turn-pro 1440. Mine was made in Taiwan which are supposed to have better quality control than the Chinese made lathes. It's a really nice machine. I bought a Precision Matthews milling machine and so far it's been great. You hear good and bad about Grizzly. I'd go with the Precision Matthews 1336. Matt has a good reputation for taking care of his customers. Don't know if you've been to this site but has some decent information.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com

[bboswell]

The good thing about the lnl gauge is repeatability. I’ve used the split neck method but I found myself getting different measurements. I ended up taking the average of 3.


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I have had the same experience.

In the grand scheme of things the OAL gauge is a cheap investment.

[meltingfeather]

What's your favorite way to determine seating depth, without using a special tool?

Seating gradually until it will chamber without effort.

Does anyone see a problem with this method?

Not if you get consistent and repeatable measurements with it.

Dang Luke as much loading as you do you need the Hornady OAL gauge and modified cases.

I know a lot of people like them, but I didn't like the cheap plastic feel of the OAL and sent it back. More expensive, but I use the RCBS Precision Mics and they are good... real good. Fast, easy, extremely accurate, repeatable... e'ertang.... and $50 per caliber.

Some may disagree, but I like to try different seating depths

I'd like to see an argument for that. I've heard some folks say they don't think it makes a difference, but it is very easy to demonstrate that in some rifles with some loads it absolutely does.