Things I've learned about tuning over the last 6 months

[JTeLarkin08]

Has there been any testing Just thousands and thousands of archers that have bare shaft tune there bows So I would think that's a pretty good test



Like I stated before a bare shaft shooting a hole at 20 yards is better then a fletched arrow at 4 yards. So yes it's just the next step in tuning. It's not my fault you can't do it so you think it's a waist of time.

I didn't say I can't do it. Said I wasn't changing my grip to get the Hoyt to bare shaft. I could tweak my grip and get it to do it but that is stupid in my opinion. With my elites they aren't far off just after I tune my way. I've also never shot a bare shaft at an animal. So yes if my fixed blades fly past 80 it is a waste of time.

You say thousands and thousands of archers have bare shaft tuned a bow. Well I would be willing to bet 100x that have tuned a bow without bare shafting and killed animals. The most accomplished bowhunters I know all say it's a waste of time and none of them do it. So I guess if I want to tune like guys not out killig stuff I'll go back to bare shaft tuning

[JTeLarkin08]

Has there been any testing Just thousands and thousands of archers that have bare shaft tune there bows So I would think that's a pretty good test



Like I stated before a bare shaft shooting a hole at 20 yards is better then a fletched arrow at 4 yards. So yes it's just the next step in tuning. It's not my fault you can't do it so you think it's a waist of time.

What I am saying is has anyone ever taken one of those thousands of bare shaft tuned bows and put it In a hooter shooter and taken one of the paper/walk back tuned bows and put it in the hooter shooter and compared groups at 40+ yards?? Bc people can shoot all day and it's not a test at all.

[hoyt21]

What I am saying is has anyone ever taken one of those thousands of bare shaft tuned bows and put it In a hooter shooter and taken one of the paper/walk back tuned bows and put it in the hooter shooter and compared groups at 40+ yards?? Bc people can shoot all day and it's not a test at all.

A hooter shooter would not be valid in this test and the grip would be different. With that said if you're close with your bares on your elites tweak that grip and I bet you get them touching. What broadhead are you shooting. What does your arrow look like looking from top of limbs down the the arrow is it down the center or chalked to one direction. Bareshafting helps you find the power strike of the bow making everything run center.

[enewman]

I didn't say I can't do it. Said I wasn't changing my grip to get the Hoyt to bare shaft. I could tweak my grip and get it to do it but that is stupid in my opinion. With my elites they aren't far off just after I tune my way. I've also never shot a bare shaft at an animal. So yes if my fixed blades fly past 80 it is a waste of time.

You say thousands and thousands of archers have bare shaft tuned a bow. Well I would be willing to bet 100x that have tuned a bow without bare shafting and killed animals. The most accomplished bowhunters I know all say it's a waste of time and none of them do it. So I guess if I want to tune like guys not out killig stuff I'll go back to bare shaft tuning

I agree. I have killed lots of animals. All I did was I eye ball center shot. Sighted and killed. I never tuned anything.

There will always be people that say you don't need it. Most now say paper tuning is a waist. If what you do works for you then don't change

Also you have a great example on if a bow fits or not. The hoyt did not fit you. The elite did.

But I want to shoot 100 yards plus. And yes at animals. Mainly Rams and pigs. And to do this with repetable shots I have to tune. And that means to the micro tune. And that is bare shafts. Matching weight, spine matching. The whole works. Is this worth it. To the average hunter. No. If you shoot 20 yards then you can do that with out tuning. Out to 40 not much more tuning then none. You want to hunt at 100 plus. You better have it down.

[JTeLarkin08]

I agree. I have killed lots of animals. All I did was I eye ball center shot. Sighted and killed. I never tuned anything.

There will always be people that say you don't need it. Most now say paper tuning is a waist. If what you do works for you then don't change

Also you have a great example on if a bow fits or not. The hoyt did not fit you. The elite did.

But I want to shoot 100 yards plus. And yes at animals. Mainly Rams and pigs. And to do this with repetable shots I have to tune. And that means to the micro tune. And that is bare shafts. Matching weight, spine matching. The whole works. Is this worth it. To the average hunter. No. If you shoot 20 yards then you can do that with out tuning. Out to 40 not much more tuning then none. You want to hunt at 100 plus. You better have it down.

My elites shoot a fixed blade in a 5 inch group at 100. and thats just because thats the smallest group i can shoot lol. I micro tune but it is all done with walkback and broadhead tuning. Thats the only difference..

[JTeLarkin08]

A hooter shooter would not be valid in this test and the grip would be different. With that said if you're close with your bares on your elites tweak that grip and I bet you get them touching. What broadhead are you shooting. What does your arrow look like looking from top of limbs down the the arrow is it down the center or chalked to one direction. Bareshafting helps you find the power strike of the bow making everything run center.

I shoot the 100 grain solid with my deep six arrows and a GK silver flame with my regular arrows.. Thats for my moose setup anyway.

[enewman]

Haha by now jt. You can see me and hoyt21 believe in bare shaft. I agree with hoyt a hooter shooter. Would not be the best test. You will be the best test


Now how do you compare. You can take a bow that is tuned. And you have tuned with fletched shafts. It it's great. Now we take a bare shaft and it shoots bad. What that is saying is your fletchings are doing there job. Do you need to do any more tunning at that point. That's up to you. But this is the next level of tunning. If you can get a bare shaft to shoot right with the fletched arrows. Then your really tuned. This is not easy and it takes a lot of work. Most hunters are not going to do this.
The only reason to bare shaft is to get the fletched arrow to do very little work. So when I make a bad release the fletching can still control that arrow.

Bare shaft tunning is not for everyone.

[Floor Man]

Hey JT glad I didn't chime in on this earlier .

[enewman]

By some of the comments I can see. I should have not said anything. I only posted because of your first post saying its a waist of time.

I'm not trying to tell you you have to do this. Nor did I say you cannot tune if you don't do this.

No differnt then you saying. No reason to have yokes. There is a reason. And it's all about tuning. It's easier to tune with yokes then with out. But you have to know what your looking at to do it.

My bow has no static yokes. And I have to work harder to tune that bow then the d350 with static yokes

[JTeLarkin08]

Hey JT glad I didn't chime in on this earlier .

Ha what you mean

[bowhuntntxn]

Lean

What lean are you talking about? Isn't cam lean an issue while at full draw?

[cwittttt]

What lean are you talking about? Isn't cam lean an issue while at full draw?

Exactly. 3rd axis can ONLY be determined at full draw. Anyone doing it in a vice is incorrect. However this is a common misconception these days.

[enewman]

What lean are you talking about? Isn't cam lean an issue while at full draw?

It is a problem at full draw. But. It's easy to set at rest. Just numbers here. But if cam is leaning say 1/4 to the right at full draw. Then you can adjust that at rest moving it a 1/4 to the left. Should be close to straight up at draw. So most people look at it at rest.

[hoyt21]

What lean are you talking about? Isn't cam lean an issue while at full draw?

Every split limb bow is going to have some kind of lean it's finding the right kind of lean that u need

[bowhuntntxn]

It is a problem at full draw. But. It's easy to set at rest. Just numbers here. But if cam is leaning say 1/4 to the right at full draw. Then you can adjust that at rest moving it a 1/4 to the left. Should be close to straight up at draw. So most people look at it at rest.

If you say so. I have never seen anybody check or adjust cables for cam lean without drawing the bow several times and shooting several arrows in the process.

And all cams lean at rest because of the tension from the cable guard. This changes as the lobes roll over and reposition the cable and string.