Things I've learned about tuning over the last 6 months

[hoyt21]

If you say so. I have never seen anybody check or adjust cables for cam lean without drawing the bow several times and shooting several arrows in the process.

And all cams lean at rest because of the tension from the cable guard. This changes as the lobes roll over and reposition the cable and string.

We adjust yokes to move the bare over which direction we need then we will go look back and see what kind of lean we have at static

[enewman]

If you say so. I have never seen anybody check or adjust cables for cam lean without drawing the bow several times and shooting several arrows in the process.

And all cams lean at rest because of the tension from the cable guard. This changes as the lobes roll over and reposition the cable and string.

No you have to look at it at full draw. But most bows people have already done the work for you. And they tell you where to set the lean at and this is at rest.

Mathews tells you to set all there single cams at straight up and down at rest.

All right hand bows the cams will lean toward the right at full draw. The goal is to have your sting straight at draw. And to be equal as it moves to the left at shot.

[bowhuntntxn]

No you have to look at it at full draw. But most bows people have already done the work for you. And they tell you where to set the lean at and this is at rest.

Mathews tells you to set all there single cams at straight up and down at rest.

All right hand bows the cams will lean toward the right at full draw. The goal is to have your sting straight at draw. And to be equal as it moves to the left at shot.

I know what the goal is. And I also know posting a picture of a bow without an arrow on it shows nothing about cam lean. That is why I asked about what lean that picture is intending to display.

[enewman]

I saw the arrow in the pic hoyt posted

[splitbeam145]

JT. I've been telling you 1 and 2 were waste of time. When you gonna listen to me����

[hoyt21]

I know what the goal is. And I also know posting a picture of a bow without an arrow on it shows nothing about cam lean. That is why I asked about what lean that picture is intending to display.

The arrow is to the left of the strong showing pre lean any static which is pretty much no pre lean at static

[enewman]

JT. I've been telling you 1 and 2 were waste of time. When you gonna listen to me����

Haha. That's funny. Not one of us was trying to be a smart azz


Don't turn this post into this.


We are all here to help. No reason to screw that up

[splitbeam145]

Haha. That's funny. Not one of us was trying to be a smart azz


Don't turn this post into this.


We are all here to help. No reason to screw that up

Me and JT go way back. He's never been good at following instructions.
Tinkers too much

[JTeLarkin08]

Haha. That's funny. Not one of us was trying to be a smart azz





Don't turn this post into this.





We are all here to help. No reason to screw that up

Without being a smart *** I still honestly think it's a complete waste of time.

[enewman]

Me and JT go way back. He's never been good at following instructions.
Tinkers too much

You need to send me a private message. I'm a electrician to. And you no we are all ways right. I love jumping in. I've just never posted with you two so I didn't know. But now I have game on. Have a good one

[enewman]

Without being a smart *** I still honestly think it's a complete waste of time.

I'm all with you. Like I told you buddy in the above post. Never posted with yall. But now. I'm in

[Closetohome]

4. Use the spine chart programs. That would have saved me buying about 3 dozen arrows if i would have done that to start with. I could have shot any of the arrows i chose but I stopped having left and right flyers when i finally picked the right ones..

I would have listed this as number 1 as it is by far the one that has been the most important for me. If I get this right everything else seems to fall in place.

I think with the speed of most bows today people start out with an underspined arrow at whatever length somebody happened to cut it at the bowshop. If you then start chasing FOC by adding weight it throws things all out of whack and becomes a tuning nightmare in a hurry. While the programs aren't perfect they do remove a ton of "trial and error" and give you a starting point that will reduce 95% of tuning issues.

Based on the Easton chart for 73lb bow 29" draw on aggressive cam bow it is on the edge of 300 and 340 spine. With OnTarget2 I ended up with a 260 spine axis with brass inserts at 29.5" with 15% FOC chrono'd at 287fps. Arrows papertune, broadhead tune, and fly like they are on rails.

[JTeLarkin08]

I would have listed this as number 1 as it is by far the one that has been the most important for me. If I get this right everything else seems to fall in place.



I think with the speed of most bows today people start out with an underspined arrow at whatever length somebody happened to cut it at the bowshop. If you then start chasing FOC by adding weight it throws things all out of whack and becomes a tuning nightmare in a hurry. While the programs aren't perfect they do remove a ton of "trial and error" and give you a starting point that will reduce 95% of tuning issues.



Based on the Easton chart for 73lb bow 29" draw on aggressive cam bow it is on the edge of 300 and 340 spine. With OnTarget2 I ended up with a 260 spine axis with brass inserts at 29.5" with 15% FOC chrono'd at 287fps. Arrows papertune, broadhead tune, and fly like they are on rails.

Ya the trouble I had is I went with the 260 axis up front and they were a little stiff for my bow. Even at 80# and 175 grains up front. My elite doesn't have a real harsh cam. So I ended up with the 300 and they fly great

[enewman]

Since we are on arrows. I play a lot with this. And I'm a high foc kool aid drinker. But you can never be to stiff on an arrow. No matter what. Even a weak arrow can be shot.

Charts are the bare min. So if a chart says you need a 400. That is bare min. You can always shoot a 300 no problems. Or stiffer.

The less flex in a shaft. Will penetrate better. This has been tested.


I can take a 26.5 in 200 spine. With 125 gn tip. And it will fly like a dart. This is beyond stiff. This arrow will fly the same up to a 417 gn tip. Just has more drop.

[Closetohome]

Ya the trouble I had is I went with the 260 axis up front and they were a little stiff for my bow. Even at 80# and 175 grains up front. My elite doesn't have a real harsh cam. So I ended up with the 300 and they fly great

300s work too. OnTarget2 just gave me a range where I knew given all the variables that my arrow combination was in a "sweet spot" between 73 and 77lbs. Starting there made tuning easy. I tend to stay on the high side (over spined) range on my M5. On my Monster 6 I stay with 300s.

I think the point was more that the software programs help you isolate as many variables as possible up front and then you are tuning just the bow instead of bow, arrow, broadhead, arrow length, fletching, etc all together.