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Things I've learned about tuning over the last 6 months

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    #46
    Originally posted by enewman View Post
    Since we are on arrows. I play a lot with this. And I'm a high foc kool aid drinker. But you can never be to stiff on an arrow. No matter what. Even a weak arrow can be shot.

    Charts are the bare min. So if a chart says you need a 400. That is bare min. You can always shoot a 300 no problems. Or stiffer.

    The less flex in a shaft. Will penetrate better. This has been tested.


    I can take a 26.5 in 200 spine. With 125 gn tip. And it will fly like a dart. This is beyond stiff. This arrow will fly the same up to a 417 gn tip. Just has more drop.

    Yea I agree you can make a bare shaft fly great with a stiffer spine. Problem comes in trying to make a fixed blade fly at 80-100 yards. Gotta have a little flex. If you didn't they wouldn't even make different spines

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      #47
      Originally posted by JTeLarkin08 View Post
      Yea I agree you can make a bare shaft fly great with a stiffer spine. Problem comes in trying to make a fixed blade fly at 80-100 yards. Gotta have a little flex. If you didn't they wouldn't even make different spines
      Jt. I don't seem to have much of a problem. With broadheads. I'm shooting the old zwickey deltas two blade. But I am shooting with 19 foc. So this mat be why.

      I agree with your statement or they would only make one spine. That is how I look at things also. But. I have done it. I used to hunt with the 200 spine with a 175 gn tip. Stiff as crap. I had know problems with them. But I did not shoot pass 50 yards. My last arrows where 300 spine at 26 in with a total of 290 gn upfront

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        #48
        Originally posted by enewman View Post
        Since we are on arrows. I play a lot with this. And I'm a high foc kool aid drinker. But you can never be to stiff on an arrow. No matter what. Even a weak arrow can be shot.

        Charts are the bare min. So if a chart says you need a 400. That is bare min. You can always shoot a 300 no problems. Or stiffer.

        The less flex in a shaft. Will penetrate better. This has been tested.


        I can take a 26.5 in 200 spine. With 125 gn tip. And it will fly like a dart. This is beyond stiff. This arrow will fly the same up to a 417 gn tip. Just has more drop.
        I agree with the "can't be too stiff" cause if people will think about it alittle bit. Look at the 2216,2219,etc arrows that were shot out of 70-80lb wheelbows back in the 70's-80's. These were some heavy logs flying through the air.
        I do believe you can get too weak a spine for hunting. The arrow may still shoot good on target,but slap on a fixed blade and more than likely you're gonna see some grouping issues. Problem with this is the arrow flexs way too much for the broadhead to be able to stabilize it in time coming out of the bow so it cause erractic flight from broadhead planning before arrow straighten out down range.

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          #49
          Why shoot a rope when you can have a laser beam ?

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            #50
            Jt let me add a few things and how I look at them.

            Once I started bare shaft tunning. It was bad. Then I figured out the arrows where not of good quality. Once I got that figured out. And it took awhile. I did this with a spine tester. Then I started flo testing my arrows. Looking for that spot that the arrows fly the same.

            There is a lot of knoc tuning to get all arrows flying the same. Then I started making adjustments to get the arrow flying straight. this is just to get the arrow inline with the power stroke.

            This is the advantage of yoke tuning. Which I cannot do with my bow.

            Once I got the arrow behind the power stroke. I can take a 500 spine very week up to the 200 spine very stiff and shoot with no problems. And this is with broadheads.

            What I see is that very few people knoc tune. This is part of the reason I bareshaft shoot. I don't even care if I get a perfect hole. I look for the smallest tear and that all the arrows have the same tear.

            Most people that paper tune. Will have a left /right tear. They tell you it's weak/stiff. Move the rest. That makes no sense. If arrow is weak. You don't move the rest. You lower poundage put less tips weight or shorten the arrow. Some tell you this but it's not the first step. It's at the end.

            When you are moving the rest your lining the arrow up with the power stroke. Now can an arrow be to weak yes you have to use common sense at this point. Can an arrow be to stiff. I don't think so but again. We have to use common sense here. Why buy a 200 spine when a 350 will work.

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              #51
              Originally posted by splitbeam145 View Post
              I agree with the "can't be too stiff" cause if people will think about it alittle bit. Look at the 2216,2219,etc arrows that were shot out of 70-80lb wheelbows back in the 70's-80's. These were some heavy logs flying through the air.
              I do believe you can get too weak a spine for hunting. The arrow may still shoot good on target,but slap on a fixed blade and more than likely you're gonna see some grouping issues. Problem with this is the arrow flexs way too much for the broadhead to be able to stabilize it in time coming out of the bow so it cause erractic flight from broadhead planning before arrow straighten out down range.
              I completly agree.

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                #52
                Originally posted by hoyt21 View Post
                Why shoot a rope when you can have a laser beam ?
                So after I shoot him with that rope. I can sting him up

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                  #53
                  I will continue to "waste" my time and bare shaft every time I get a new bow, arrows or release. It's made a difference for me for over 20 years, even with my Elite bow.

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by enewman View Post
                    So after I shoot him with that rope. I can sting him up

                    That's racist

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Originally posted by hoyt21 View Post
                      That's racist
                      Well I'm white. And everyone tells me that makes me racist. Haha.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by JTeLarkin08 View Post
                        With my moose hunt coming up i have really been tinkering with bows and arrow combos and playing with different styles of tuning. Here are a few things I've learned..



                        1.Bare shaft tuning is a crock of ****.. And in my opinion is completely not needed.. a lot of the guys that push this seem to be the guys that are "Super Tuners" and are selling their business. Don't get me wrong they can tie a good looking peep in and get your timing right but "super tuning" is stupid. Just because it is tuned to them doesn't mean it will be tuned to you.. And then they will want you to change your grip or form to fit the bow which is stupid. Most of the guys I know that actually go out and kill stuff don't bare shaft tune.. Its a hip cool thing it seems these days..



                        2.If its broke don't fix it.. The way i have tuned forever works the best for me. I can get my fixed blades to fly past 80 with no trouble. This is the order of tuning i use.



                        1. get timing down

                        2. shoot through paper at 4 yards and get a bullet hole

                        3. walk back tune.

                        4. If necessary broadhead tune.



                        3. Binary Cam bows are the easiest bows i have ever tuned. I don't even have a draw board and i can get my elites shooting perfect. No yoke to mess with or anything like that.



                        4. Use the spine chart programs. That would have saved me buying about 3 dozen arrows if i would have done that to start with. I could have shot any of the arrows i chose but I stopped having left and right flyers when i finally picked the right ones..

                        So you do not verify the Bow is making peak weight, hitting let-off or the specified draw length. interesting, could you elaborate more on your methodology.

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by hoyt21 View Post
                          That's racist

                          You act like your are a Mexican or something......

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                            So you do not verify the Bow is making peak weight, hitting let-off or the specified draw length. interesting, could you elaborate more on your methodology.

                            I worry more about making my draw length fit me perfect than I do peak weight. With my elite I take a few twist out of my cables and shorten the draw length just a hair so normally it doesn't make peak weight. Not much off just 1-2 pounds. I keep it in spec tho.

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                              #59
                              Originally posted by JTeLarkin08 View Post
                              I worry more about making my draw length fit me perfect than I do peak weight. With my elite I take a few twist out of my cables and shorten the draw length just a hair so normally it doesn't make peak weight. Not much off just 1-2 pounds. I keep it in spec tho.

                              Why not micro adjust the draw length using the modular cam system an fine tune with the string? I don't understand taking the cam out of optimal starting rotation to impact draw length. Elite has a great tuning video and what you are doing seems to go against their instructions for tuning a bow. I've owned and tuned a Strother which is the identical binary system elite uses and they use the same method.

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                                Why not micro adjust the draw length using the modular cam system an fine tune with the string? I don't understand taking the cam out of optimal starting rotation to impact draw length. Elite has a great tuning video and what you are doing seems to go against their instructions for tuning a bow. I've owned and tuned a Strother which is the identical binary system elite uses and they use the same method.

                                Mainly bc I haven't watched the video and have more to learn lol. I just started adjusting it that way when I first got it and never had any problems lol

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