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    #31
    I hate trouble shooting and guessing it sucks.

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      #32
      Originally posted by TexaRican View Post
      Well what a freakin mess. After weeks of being unable to find a trailer or a mobile mechanic I decided to clean the carbs as a first step. Followed an excellent 3 part youtube where the guy had my exact set save a few years older. I've rebuilt dozens of motorcycle carbs so figured this was not much different. Took them off on the water and brought home. They did not look like carbs that have ever been touched before and honestly there was nothing on the inside to indicate any issues. I was shocked but went ahead and removed all plastics and gave them a full soak. Blew out all the jets with carb cleaner, dried and reassembled. Had made sure to check and my idle air tubes were set 1-1/4 turn from seat. Guy in the video was 1-1/2 but I put mine back just like they were.
      Back on the boat today with no issues and the motor fired up about like it always has in cool weather. First thing I noticed was it does idle at a higher RPM than before (using my ear tach) and seemed to be smoother at first. I'm still a bit worried about the water pump because it spits and spurts, not a steady stream like videos I see.

      Took the boat out and it shifted really hard. Still surging some and never died but did not want to get up on plane. Throttle up and the motor will rev really high but almost like the prop doesn't grab. Lots of smoke too but maybe residual carb cleaner? I only ran it about 10 minutes and went back to the slip. I do have a fuel pump rebuild kit I can try next but I'm kind of over the guessing game. Still searching for a trailer or mobile mechanic.
      Prop slipping is new?

      Still using the fuel lines from 2005?

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        #33
        Yes original lines. No signs of anything deteriorating.

        Went back today after confirming factory 1-1/4 turns setting on idle screws and made sure all were precise. Started up and let it run at idle. Died after a minute or two. Started again and let it warm up at a little higher RPM for a minute then let sit at idle. Ran 15 minutes and didn’t die. Smoothed out a little. Too rough today to test run since it would be crazy hard if I had to get back in the slip on just a trolling motor.

        Anyway, idle is definitely high now. I think something in the linkage got out of whack in reassembly cause I can push down on it and get the idle back to normal but it’s not going down all the way on it’s own. Back was aching so I left that for tomorrow morning.

        If I can do it right, here is today’s video. Still not right to me. May still pull the fuel pump for rebuild but I’ve been watching the level in the filter and that seems consistent.




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          #34
          Some fuel lines have a liner in them that can collapse over time from ethanol. I was nearly left stranded once because of this. Motor would just get enough fuel to run about 1/4 throttle, then quit if you tried to throttle it up. Let it sit a few minutes and it would start right back up and run. As long as the speed was kept low.

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            #35
            Man did you do a compression chk yet?
            They need to be within 10% of eachother also

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              #36
              Originally posted by kingranch View Post
              Man did you do a compression chk yet?
              They need to be within 10% of eachother also

              Not yet. That’s one of those things that will be more challenging on the water. Searching hard for a trailer now so I can get it home. Almost drove 3 hours to Tyler for one today. May go get it this weekend but my golf bug is overriding all right now.


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                #37
                Do you use ethanol fuel? Would be cheap maintenance to replace tank lines and primer bulb to the motor. Do a compression test (can borrow one from auto parts store). I'm going to bet carbs are the issue depending on answer to first question. Did you clean every orifice with a wire? Compressed air may not do the trick. You can buy a gallon of carb cleaner and soak the full carbs overnight (Chem dip).

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by TexaRican View Post
                  Not yet. That’s one of those things that will be more challenging on the water. Searching hard for a trailer now so I can get it home. Almost drove 3 hours to Tyler for one today. May go get it this weekend but my golf bug is overriding all right now.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  Back the boat into the slip and a compression test will be very easy.

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                    #39
                    I did chem dip the carbs and verified all jets clean and clear.

                    Backing in is a pain because of the orientation of my lift straps. I’d have to adjust cables to get the boat level enough to lift. May do the compression test from my buds boat though pulled up behind.


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                      #40
                      Do you have a see through plastic fuel filter? If yes, remove it and look at the inlet and the outlet. I had one that looked full of fuel, but the carb side outlet was collapsed due to ethanol and wouldn't flow at full rate, but looked full.

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                        #41
                        What ever you do don't ask flex for advice [emoji1787]

                        Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

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                          #42
                          Sounds crazy since you just did it but check your spark plug wires and plugs. Be sure all are on snug.

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                            #43
                            When mine did similar it was the voltage regulator (1 of 2) mounted on the back of the engine. You could tell one was burnt up. I replaced them both.

                            Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by bakin7005 View Post
                              When mine did similar it was the voltage regulator (1 of 2) mounted on the back of the engine. You could tell one was burnt up. I replaced them both.

                              Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

                              Hmm. Mine show no visible issues but I’ve thought of that given my tachometer not working on either regulator. True Merc OEM units are pricey to just replace on a guess but I’m not buying the aftermarket junk. Lesson learned on parts lomg ago.


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                                #45
                                So got idle back down. One of my oil lines was keeping the fuel linkage from seating back down fully.
                                Now it’s idling exactly like it did before and dies when I put it in gear. Brought the fuel pump home to rebuild tonight.


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