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bleaching a skull

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    #31
    Originally posted by topher View Post
    Van Dykes skull mounting-bleaching kit
    This is what I used this time. Probably going to try the volume 40 next time.

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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      #32
      Originally posted by Sika View Post
      Get you a bowl and a cheap paint brush.
      Pour some cream in the bowl and start painting it on the skull. Cover every surface.

      Some people wrap it in plastic wrap to keep it from drying out too fast. When it dries it stops processessing. I found the pastic wrap to be messy and more trouble than it's worth.

      I just leave the painted skull in the sun for a few hours. When it's dry, wash the residue off and apply another coat of hair bleach. Dry, rinse off, repeat.

      Two coats usually gets the skull white enough to suit me but I've used 3-4 applications for whitening old yellow skulls.
      This. It works great.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Walker View Post
        No matter what you clean or whiten with, hog tusks need to be filled with epoxy, elmers or something. They are hollow and will crack unless filled.
        Yep, 100% on this. I use E6000 most of the time.

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          #34
          Originally posted by 35remington View Post
          In my opinion? Sunshine.

          The skulls that are painted with beauty products look too white to me. I like the sun-bleached look. It's more natural.
          Sun will bleach them, but makes them brittle too... And takes forever.

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            #35
            Originally posted by bigbad243 View Post
            Sun will bleach them, but makes them brittle too... And takes forever.
            Also fades the antlers.

            Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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              #36
              Pig skulls need to be boiled with Borax and then soaked in a degreaser or the grease will come out eventually. Then coat in the 40 volume and put in the sun. Also dill a few small holes in the bottom of the jaw so the water in the bone will drain.

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                #37

                This!

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                  #38
                  Following....

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                    #39
                    Javis?

                    Originally posted by bigbad243 View Post
                    Yep, 100% on this. I use E6000 most of the time.
                    I assume javelina tusks need epoxy too?

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Sika View Post
                      3% hydrogen peroxide you get at the drug store is not strong enough.
                      Get the 40 v. developer in cream form. The cream can be painted on the skull and left to process. Liquid is a pita to work with.
                      Courious why you think liquid is pita? I have a small plastic box fill it with volume 30, put skull in for a day and it’s done. I do quite a few and it’s pretty simple.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Dusty Britches View Post
                        Someone offered to clean a skull of a hog I shot with my bow with the beetles. It was a very large hog. It had 5-6" cutters. Well, the beetles froze to death so the guy used bleach water.

                        After 6 years, the skull is literally splitting apart. The cutters are splintered. I'm going to have to throw it away and it really disappoints me. I think I'll take pictures of it next to the smaller hog that another friend used the Clear Volume 40 on the year prior to the big hog. It is an amazing difference.
                        Cutters will crack and split over time I know a lot of taxis that will only use replica cutters due to this as far as bleach I am not a fan I get them clean then simmer in a 50/50 mix of brown bottle 3% prox and water

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Sika View Post
                          3% hydrogen peroxide you get at the drug store is not strong enough.
                          Get the 40 v. developer in cream form. The cream can be painted on the skull and left to process. Liquid is a pita to work with.
                          Sika I disagree all I use is 3% but I simmer mine in it 50/50 with water

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by HUNTIN HARD View Post
                            Courious why you think liquid is pita? I have a small plastic box fill it with volume 30, put skull in for a day and it’s done. I do quite a few and it’s pretty simple.
                            I prefer the cream because it’s easy to paint on, easy to avoid getting it on the antlers and seems less wasteful. Idk, maybe I’m just doing it wrong.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by shwacker1911 View Post
                              Sika I disagree all I use is 3% but I simmer mine in it 50/50 with water
                              How much do you have to use to cover a skull? Seems like it would take a lot.

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by Sika View Post
                                I prefer the cream because it’s easy to paint on, easy to avoid getting it on the antlers and seems less wasteful. Idk, maybe I’m just doing it wrong.
                                No if that’s what you prefer than that’s great. I have just always done the liquid wrap paper towels right under the burr and they will draw up the liquid. When done I just pour back in bottle. Can you get paste all up in the nose cavity?

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