Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Chainsaw sharpener advice needed.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #61
    I haven’t owned a chainsaw since the 80,s. What is the best length of bar to cut cedar with and how long will a new chain last. And yes, sharpening does seem labor intensive and hit or miss till you learn what your doing.

    Comment


      #62
      Chainsaw sharpener advice needed.

      Originally posted by Hogmauler View Post
      I haven’t owned a chainsaw since the 80,s. What is the best length of bar to cut cedar with and how long will a new chain last. And yes, sharpening does seem labor intensive and hit or miss till you learn what your doing.

      Far from labor intensive. Even with a manual file I can sharpen a chain in 4 minutes. 2-4 strokes per blade. My 40v electric pole saw with an 8” bar I can sharpen in two minutes.

      If I was cutting your typical cedar of 4” or less I would be using the Green Works 40v electric pole saw without an extension. The reach is so much easier on the back. We trimmed lease roads of cedar, mesquite and live oaks limbs for 18 hours this past summer and my pole saw was a game changer. For big cedar it would be an 18”-20” bar.

      Comment


        #63
        Thanks Jason. I was told that if you cut a certain type of cedar down to the ground it will die without the greenery on top. We bought a small place in Mountain Home and I want to leave the cedar around our boundaries for privacy, keep some as shelter belts for the deer, and clear out the cedar around some oak motts. Having said that, could I cut at least 10 cedars down before needing resharpening?

        Comment


          #64
          Originally posted by Hogmauler View Post
          Thanks Jason. I was told that if you cut a certain type of cedar down to the ground it will die without the greenery on top. We bought a small place in Mountain Home and I want to leave the cedar around our boundaries for privacy, keep some as shelter belts for the deer, and clear out the cedar around some oak motts. Having said that, could I cut at least 10 cedars down before needing resharpening?


          Cut a cedar below it’s lowest branch and you’ll take care of it


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

          Comment


            #65
            Thanks Bret!

            Comment


              #66
              I have multiple Oregons for different blades. It's a Dremmel type but is 12V so I can sharpen anywhere my Gator can go.

              Comment


                #67
                Chainsaw sharpener advice needed.

                Originally posted by Hogmauler View Post
                Thanks Jason. I was told that if you cut a certain type of cedar down to the ground it will die without the greenery on top. We bought a small place in Mountain Home and I want to leave the cedar around our boundaries for privacy, keep some as shelter belts for the deer, and clear out the cedar around some oak motts. Having said that, could I cut at least 10 cedars down before needing resharpening?

                Yes.. when green, most of a cedar is soft and pliable. That’s generally easier on blades

                Comment


                  #68
                  I like my Dremel-type blade sharpener, is an off brand but it still has the angle guide on it. Does a good job but you need to use the diamond-coated grinding spindles. The others wear out too quick.

                  Comment


                    #69
                    Originally posted by Anvilheadtexas View Post
                    I am looking for some thoughts/advice from members regarding the best sharpener/grinder for chainsaw blades. There has to be something a weekender can use to put an edge back on a blade.

                    Kicking off deer season prep 2018/19 this past weekend I found myself struggling with the dull blade blues.

                    I would go to google, but want to see what you guys say.
                    I do it manually, it only take about 6-8 minutes with good results. You'll have more control doing it manually IMO. If you screw up with a machine, you can ruin your chain.

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Lot of great pointers here. Tagging this one for future reference.


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

                      Comment


                        #71
                        I have the Stihl 2 in 1 in the saw case and a Timberline with carbide burrs for the house or truck. The Timberline sets them back to correct geometry and factory fresh. The Stihl keeps me close enough touching up in woods.

                        Comment


                          #72
                          What dulls your chain is hitting rocks while trying to cut stuff off at the ground. Always wear leather gloves, especially if you are breaking off dead branches by hand since those can break off in your palm and spear you. Ask my eight stiches about that. Wear eye protection as well for the same reason. I have used an 16 inch saw for cedar-lighter and more mobil than a heavier saw.

                          Comment


                            #73
                            I take my chain blades to the local hardware store and get them sharpened on a German sharpener. I have a couple of blades with me at all times so if I dull one blade, I just put a fresh chain on and keep on going. When I return to town, I drop off all dull blades at the hardware store for resharpening. For every 5 sharpening, I get a freebie, I get a free sharpen. Cost is $5 per sharpening.

                            Saving time on a job for me is money.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X