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Chainsaw sharpener advice needed.
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Originally posted by Lip View PostWhat I found is Stihl actually private labels this one. The manufacturer is Pferd. You can buy the original manufacturer a little bit cheaper and I agree with everyone else it works great. I put my saw blade in a vice to use it which makes it easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Pferd-17301Pf...NG3K22CHDTF79W
I havent looked into replacement of just the part yet
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by hog_down View PostThis is what I have, it works OK.
link: https://www.amazon.com/Katzco-Piece-...ning+kit&psc=1
I'd like to see what everyone else uses. I have a Stihl pole saw and a Poulan 18" chainsaw, that gets used occasionally, but when they get used, its hard and heavy work.
I use the same kit. Gets it sharp and is quick
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[quote=Quackerbox;13487271]sthil makes a handheld deal that's pretty neat. I don't own one but its got good reviews.
[url]https://www.amazon.com/STIHL-EASY-CHAINSAW-CHAIN-SHARPENER/dp/B00HY96EW8/ref=asc_df_B00HY96EW8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198060922766&hvpos=1o1&hvne tw=g&hvrand=10049330026831625334&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h vqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027697 &hvtargid=pla-362441867409&psc
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Originally posted by Oomkin View PostI've never bothered to sharpen chain saw blades. I always have new spare chain blades, just swap the old blade with a new blade, then throw away the old blade. I heard that if you sharpened the chain saw blades, you need to make sure that the angles are correct, otherwise there's an increased risk of 'kick back' occurring. I don't know how critical the angles are or how much increased risk there is of 'kick back' occurring.
I've worn out 3 cheap chainsaws over the past decade, so I broke down and spent about twice as much on a nice Stihl brand chainsaw. The Stihl brand is a huge upgrade from the cheap brand chainsaws.
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Chain saw sharpening guides are super cheap and work great -- they have the angle marked clearly on the guide, and it's impossible to sharpen too deep into the teeth because it's got a little rail that rides on top of them. This is the style I have, but they get more expensive than that. If you're sharpening a rip chain, you don't even need the angle off of the guide, but riding on the teeth is really great.
I also haven't found that I need to do more than 2 or 3 passes on a tooth to get it back to sharp. And... I don't know if it's a feature on all saws, but when you kick the guard out on mine, it stops the blade from being able to move as a safety feature. No need to tighten up the chain other than correct tension!
I was paying to have someone sharpen my chains, but I it got to be huge hassle.
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The best sharpener is probably the Granberg. 12v so hook up to your vehicle if out in the field or in the garage use and old battery, even a 12v deer feeder battery.
I have to use this when I hit a rock or nail in the wood and need to reshape the edges and I also use it to change the angle of the teeth for a more aggressive cut.
Have the right size file with you for sharpening in the field while working bigger jobs and use a guide and flat file for the rakers every once in a while. Just a little practice and you can touch up a blade quickly, just follow the angle that is already there.
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