Broadhead Tuning Issue

[44mAG]

Thanks good Sir. One more question. If moving the rest does indeed help, won't my FP paper tuning show something other than bullet holes if I move the rest from the current position? Is this common and acceptable? Or is there really some other underlying issue that BH tuning just covers up? At this point in the season, I am fine just getting my BHs to hit in the same spot consistently.

[Outbreaker]

Yes, just like a left tear in paper. A left tear in paper means we move the rest right (chase the point remember?), same with broadhead tuning.



NO, always move the FIELD point to the BROADHEAD FIRST! If this doesn't work then move the other way. The VAST majority of bow/rest combinations will tune by moving the FIELD tip to the BROADHEAD.



BOTH will NOT work, only one will work; there is about a 90% chance the method I described will work and about a 10% chance the other method will work.

Try the method I described first, safe yourself some frustration.

I have only been tuning broadheads since 1986. I could have been doing it wrong the entire time.

[Rat]

Thanks good Sir. One more question. If moving the rest does indeed help, won't my FP paper tuning show something other than bullet holes if I move the rest from the current position? Is this common and acceptable? Or is there really some other underlying issue that BH tuning just covers up? At this point in the season, I am fine just getting my BHs to hit in the same spot consistently.

Paper tuning is just a starting point and can give bad results.

Broadhead tuning is a much more finely tuned tuning method than paper tuning. The problem with paper tuning is that it only gives you a snapshot in time; where broadhead tuning, and other methods, let you see what the arrow is doing for the full flight of the arrow by inference from the point of impact and angle of entry.

I have never broadhead tuned a bow and then had it give paper tears. Even after adjustments were made after it was paper tuned. When you paper tune you are only tuning for whatever the distance is from the paper to the bow; you have no idea what it is doing before or after. IOW, you are tuning for a certain distance (or frequency). Broadhead tuning will make it so the flight is straight the whole way.

this is why broadhead tuning and paper tuning will not fight each other or show different results.

[oktx]

I have only been tuning broadheads since 1986. I could have been doing it wrong the entire time.

I have always moved the BH to the FP. The crazy thing is it's always worked.

[Rat]

I have only been tuning broadheads since 1986. I could have been doing it wrong the entire time.

I started in '88 so you have two years on me!

Both will work, but only one method will work on a given bow. Since the OP has already tried to make the changes using the method you describe, and it has made no difference, I suggest this other method. And yes, it is the one I start with when tuning.

Nothing personal, just trying to get 44mAG on the right track.

[sweetinlow660]

Thanks good Sir. One more question. If moving the rest does indeed help, won't my FP paper tuning show something other than bullet holes if I move the rest from the current position? Is this common and acceptable? Or is there really some other underlying issue that BH tuning just covers up? At this point in the season, I am fine just getting my BHs to hit in the same spot consistently.

All that really matters is that your broad heads hit consistently where you point them. The changes shouldn't be enough to drastically effect your field points flight. Who cares if it does anyway? Bullet holes in paper are far less edible than venison and, perfectly tuned field points are for Tournament shooters and winning beer money from your buddies at the range on Thursday nights.

[Outbreaker]

I started in '88 so you have two years on me!

Both will work, but only one method will work on a given bow. Since the OP has already tried to make the changes using the method you describe, and it has made no difference, I suggest this other method. And yes, it is the one I start with when tuning.

Nothing personal, just trying to get 44mAG on the right track.

I usually paper tune, then bareshaft, then broadhead then bareshaft broadhead.

I used to be **** about things, shooting 3D competitions tends to do that to you. I have not even picked up my bow in 3 years (shattered elbow).

[Rat]

Heloooooooo.......??
Are my posts showing up, it's like no one can hear me...

I have written my piece, I will not debate the merits of one method over the other. If you really want to argue the point just go back and read my posts; my argument and position have already been stated.

If y'all really want to debate the merits of one tuning method over the other, please make a new thread so we don't highjack this one.

[sweetinlow660]

Who's arguing? I mean other than you and Outbreaker having opposite opinions on how to "start" doing the same thing I don't see an argument at all.

[Texasbeanie]

If they were working fine at the end of the season and just went out of tune I bet a string or cable stretched.

Retune and you should be fine.

This is it!!! Bare shaft tune your bow and it will shoot great

[oktx]

No argument out of me. Now I have another method to try.

[rocky]

There are a couple posts with some good info on this thread, but there are a couple of posts with some unbelievably horrible advice.
Post 23 has a nice diagram with great advice.

[nimrodtracy]

Oh hell go old school and fletch 5" right helical feathers and it will shoot fine

I have herd of carbon arrows that have been compromised because of heat and lost stiffness so they did not shoot the same with broadheads.

[rocky]

Oh hell go old school and fletch 5" right helical feathers and it will shoot fine

I have herd of carbon arrows that have been compromised because of heat and lost stiffness so they did not shoot the same with broadheads.

The United States Air Force uses carbon to build airplanes like the Stealth Bomber.
I'm pretty sure that 100 degrees or more heat has little if any effect on carbon arrows.
Maybe someone exposed their carbon arrows to heat above this, but I'm gonna say that this is pure speculation.

[44mAG]

Wanted to post an update. I went home yesterday and tried a few things. The first thing I did was bare shaft tune the bow at 15 yds. I was able to get the shafts to fly straight and hit the same spot as a fletched FP arrow consistently by making a few rest adjustments. I then shot a normal arrow with BH on and it still hit right a couple inches. I then started moving my rest further to the right, and eventually had my BH hitting the same spot. I took a break, then shot again a few times and all of a sudden I was hitting right again. Seems like I cannot get consistent results with just rest movement. I am thinking that maybe the yokes need to be adjusted which I am unable to do myself. I shot a bare shaft again this morning after my attempt at BH tuning last night. Here is my result next to a fletched arrow.

As you can see, I am nose up and a little right. I may be having issues with clearance now. I'm thinking I am going to get everything back to where my bare shafts are shooting straight, then just adjust my sights for my BHs. At least I will have confidence my arrows are flying straight. Below is a pic of a BH arrow (on the right) compared to FP at 15 yds.

It's just anoying as hell that my FPs and BHs are off by inches at 15 yds. My rest is currently about 1/8" to the right from where it was when paper tuned with a fletched FP arrow. Any advice on what would be the best course of action is appreciated. Thanks


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