Broadhead Tuning Issue

[Rat]

Thanks for the input so far guys. I am going to respond to some of the comments. I am shooting an older style Trophy Ridge drop away rest which has been on the bow since the beginning. Regarding tuning, the bow is currently shooting bullet holes with field points through paper which was done by the guys at Archery Country in Austin. I agree I do need to get an arrow spinner and spin test the arrows. However, this issue was not here with the exact same broadheads and exact same arrows last year. Can you still square up arrows that already have inserts in them? I actually just had 6 more arrows built and inserts are put in already. The issue is the same across multiple arrows I have been shooting. I agree that the one thing that could have changed from last year has to do with string stretch. I was hoping paper tuning would solve the issue but it has not.

Yes, you can still square up arrows after the inserts have been glued in.
You can either square up the insert or, remove the insert, then square the shaft then reinstall a new insert, then square up the insert.

Either way inserts should be squared up at the end of the process.

[44mAG]

Yes, you can still square up arrows after the inserts have been glued in.
You can either square up the insert or, remove the insert, then square the shaft then reinstall a new insert, then square up the insert.

Either way inserts should be squared up at the end of the process.

Thank you. Has anyone used the G 5 Outdoors Arrow Squaring Device Combo Kit that is on Amazon? Would this be a good squaring device? Or is there something better out there?

[mej4219]

G5 has a good arrow squaring device. Always worked well for me.

[Puggy625]

Get away from depending on paper tuning. It's a starting point at best. Walk back, then broadhead tuning will get it done if all specs are good on the bow.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Rat]

Thank you. Has anyone used the G 5 Outdoors Arrow Squaring Device Combo Kit that is on Amazon? Would this be a good squaring device? Or is there something better out there?

The G5 ASD is what I use as well.

There is a guy on Archery Talk that makes a 3D printed one as well; it uses sand paper instead of a diamond/blade like the ASD. By all accounts it is well made and works well. It's only about $20.

[44mAG]

Get away from depending on paper tuning. It's a starting point at best. Walk back, then broadhead tuning will get it done if all specs are good on the bow.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Can someone explain the walk back and broadhead tuning?

[Rat]

Can someone explain the walk back and broadhead tuning?

Walk Back tuning tutorial

Broadhead tuning is just what I explained above, moving the rest, in small increments, to get the FIELD tipped arrows to hit with the BROADHEAD tipped arrows.

IOW, you will be moving the rest in the direction needed to get the field tipped arrows to move toward the broadhead tipped arrows.

If the field tipped arrows are hitting center, but the broadhead tipped arrows are hitting to the right; you need to move the rest to the right in 1/32" increments until they all hit the same. Then move the sights to get them back in the center.

[44mAG]

Walk Back tuning tutorial

Broadhead tuning is just what I explained above, moving the rest, in small increments, to get the FIELD tipped arrows to hit with the BROADHEAD tipped arrows.

IOW, you will be moving the rest in the direction needed to get the field tipped arrows to move toward the broadhead tipped arrows.

If the field tipped arrows are hitting center, but the broadhead tipped arrows are hitting to the right; you need to move the rest to the right in 1/32" increments until they all hit the same. Then move the sights to get them back in the center.

Thanks. I have tried moving my rest, but I was moving it to the left. I haven't tried anything after getting it back from the shop hoping that their tuning would do the trick. I was moving to the right based on the following chart and others online. You are saying the opposite correct?



Also, I am assuming the walk back method should be done with broadheads? With field points, I am shooting great groups out to 40 yds.

[Rat]

Thanks. I have tried moving my rest, but I was moving it to the left. I haven't tried anything after getting it back from the shop hoping that their tuning would do the trick. I was moving to the right based on the following chart and others online. You are saying the opposite correct?

Yes, for left and right move it opposite; remember, you are moving the FIELD tipped arrows to the BROADHEAD tipped arrows.

For elevation difference you move it in the opposite direction. IOW, if the broadhead hits low, you raise the rest or lower the nock point.

I have found that 90% of the time this is what is needed. However, sometimes the opposite is true. I've seen a few bow/rest combinations that needed to rest moved opposite of what I am saying; so don't get stuck on one thing.

If you make a move and it gets worse, move it the other direction and see what happens. These systems are dynamic, tune based on results, not what some internet genius says to do (that includes me). It isn't ALWAYS the same in archery.

[Rat]

Also, I am assuming the walk back method should be done with broadheads? With field points, I am shooting great groups out to 40 yds.

Field tips only.

And then make sure your second and third axis is set on your sight before you start the Walk Back tuning.

[44mAG]

Yes, for left and right move it opposite; remember, you are moving the FIELD tipped arrows to the BROADHEAD tipped arrows.

For elevation difference you move it in the opposite direction. IOW, if the broadhead hits low, you raise the rest or lower the nock point.

I have found that 90% of the time this is what is needed. However, sometimes the opposite is true. I've seen a few bow/rest combinations that needed to rest moved opposite of what I am saying; so don't get stuck on one thing.

If you make a move and it gets worse, move it the other direction and see what happens. These systems are dynamic, tune based on results, not what some internet genius says to do (that includes me). It isn't ALWAYS the same in archery.

Okay, so just to clarify. Currently my FPs are hitting to the left of the BHs. Therefore, I should move my rest to the RIGHT in order to try and make the FPs match where the BHs are hitting? That makes sense. I was trying to make the BHs move to match the FPs previously, so I was trying to move the rest to the left.

[Outbreaker]

Okay, so just to clarify. Currently my FPs are hitting to the left of the BHs. Therefore, I should move my rest to the RIGHT in order to try and make the FPs match where the BHs are hitting? That makes sense. I was trying to make the BHs move to match the FPs previously, so I was trying to move the rest to the left.

You walk your BH TO the field points when moving the rest.

Now if this does not work re center and go the other way......sometimes this works when it should not.

[44mAG]

You walk your BH TO the field points when moving the rest.

Now if this does not work re center and go the other way......sometimes this works when it should not.

Haha okay. Rat said this "you are moving the FIELD tipped arrows to the BROADHEAD tipped arrows". You say the opposite. I guess both will work? I will probably end up trying both ways anyways.

[Diamond S]

Just another suggestion if none of the above works for you. Try timing the rest, most have some kind of mark on them that should line up when you are at full draw. With the new strings maybe they didn't get it set just right. Yes you can get a field tip to tune with a slow dropping rest, but good luck with a broad head, it is all but impossible.

[Rat]

Okay, so just to clarify. Currently my FPs are hitting to the left of the BHs. Therefore, I should move my rest to the RIGHT in order to try and make the FPs match where the BHs are hitting? That makes sense. I was trying to make the BHs move to match the FPs previously, so I was trying to move the rest to the left.

Yes, just like a left tear in paper. A left tear in paper means we move the rest right (chase the point remember?), same with broadhead tuning.

You walk your BH TO the field points when moving the rest.

Now if this does not work re center and go the other way......sometimes this works when it should not.

NO, always move the FIELD point to the BROADHEAD FIRST! If this doesn't work then move the other way. The VAST majority of bow/rest combinations will tune by moving the FIELD tip to the BROADHEAD.

Haha okay. Rat said this "you are moving the FIELD tipped arrows to the BROADHEAD tipped arrows". You say the opposite. I guess both will work? I will probably end up trying both ways anyways.

BOTH will NOT work, only one will work; there is about a 90% chance the method I described will work and about a 10% chance the other method will work.

Try the method I described first, safe yourself some frustration.