Easton guide
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Explain Arrow choice
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Originally posted by flywise View PostNot if you have an overdraw in place
I personally shoot a 28" arrow and could go shorter with a 29" draw and the broadhead sits right on top of my riser. I consider this safe as I have never ever drawn or had the arrow fall of my rest while shooting or hunting. 40+ years of doing this and no problems.
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When it comes to arrows, I've shot these Easton hunters for a long time. Thought they were ok. I was then recommended ACComplice arrows. Made my groups better at distance, made my field points and BH's fly the same. Huge difference to me. A bit of a price jump but worth it.
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Explain Arrow choice
28 inch DL with an arrow length indicator at full draw.
I had my 6 yo take this pic so it's not the best.
27.25 inch arrow. I could still shave 3/4 of an inch and be ok. If I had a reason to.
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Violence never settles anything.
-Genghis KahnLast edited by Stoof; 10-18-2016, 06:15 PM.
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Originally posted by enewman View PostStatic spine is tested at 28 inches and with a 1.94 lb weight. On stiff spine. You won't see a problem till around 80 yards with an to stiff arrow. Under that stiff spine means nothing. Shot as stiff as you want. As long as it's a release shot bow.
Everything else you wrote is good.Last edited by buxNdux; 10-18-2016, 06:48 PM.
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Originally posted by buxNdux View PostThanks for the correction, I didn't have time to look it up.. I knew it was close to 2 lbs and the 29" I was wrong it had been awhile since I looked at that... I do regularly shoot out to 70 and 80 yards and you are right about stuff spine other than it being less forgiving there is a sweet spot for optimal flight.
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Originally posted by Chad74 View PostEven though I have been bow hunting for a couple of years now, I am uneducated when it comes to arrows. I am still shooting the Victory 400 spine arrows the bow shop recommended back when I first started. So I am looking to learn.
I kind of understand the spine number as the stiffness of the arrow. What about the diameter of the arrow? I've seen different sizes. Why the different sizes?
Fletching-- why the different sizes and straight versus helical (I think that is the name).
What am I missing?
Bish just asked a question on another thread about GPI? What is that?
You asked a lot of information there, you will get a ton of answers and opinions.
I'll take a stab.
Spine ratings on arrow shafts are static deflection readings taken using a standard ASTM method. This number is a measured deflection at a known/constant span-under a constant/known load which allows them to be grouped into families according to the stiffness=measured deflection of the arrow. This is called "Static Spine" and where we start when selecting a shaft for a bow and shooter with a certain set of specifications.
Arrow diameters are a little more dicey, and in a lot of instances purely subjective opinion. Standard diameters or 19 series shafts are by far the most common and are the back bone of the arrow industry. Over the last several years micro diameters have been the rage and have become very popular. Claims of increase penetration draw the interest of many hunters but this still isn't something that's been proven out right. There are some obvious benefits that are more easily quantified such as a reduced cross section decreasing cross wind drift as well as increased fletching clearance. The fact is you can build a great arrow in virtually and diameter with a little effort.
Fletching, IMO the more the better. Straight has no business outdoors and especially in the bowhunting realm. Offset is better but a heavy helical will always provide better steering correction and shot to shot consistency. Factor in fixed blade heads and it becomes more critical. The overall tune on the bow has an impact on how much fletching is required to steer while things like FOC correlate to steering leverage. Again, you get a lot of opinions here and a lot of good feedback from lots of folks.
More often than not most go through gyrations changing setup's over a period of time to find that perfect set up. And then you buy a new bow, change draw weight or something else that makes you change it up again.
Sounds like you are on the right track.
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