Explain Arrow choice

[Chad74]

Even though I have been bow hunting for a couple of years now, I am uneducated when it comes to arrows. I am still shooting the Victory 400 spine arrows the bow shop recommended back when I first started. So I am looking to learn.
I kind of understand the spine number as the stiffness of the arrow. What about the diameter of the arrow? I've seen different sizes. Why the different sizes?
Fletching-- why the different sizes and straight versus helical (I think that is the name).
What am I missing?


Bish just asked a question on another thread about GPI? What is that?

[Puncher51]

I'm subscribing to this for the responses. I'm embarrassed to say I've been a bow hunter for 10 years and still shoot the same type of arrow that was recommended to me by a friend. Have absolutely no reasoning behind it.

[Fordtough68]

In for responses. I just started bow hunting this year. Shotgun and muzzloader for deer my whole life. Have my bow getting worked over at CCR as we speak, but would like to know more about arrow selection for when I pick it up.

[ar3731guy]

I have used many brands of arrows till I found one that was durable and consistent. that was Gold Tips XT's 10 years ago. I shot them until last year when I switched to Easton axis. I switched to the axis for the slim diameter and the availability of brass inserts for them. so far I am happy with the switch. my arrows are almost 100 gr heavier now with the same bh but they pack a lot more punch and fly very well even at long range.

[xman59]

Even though I have been bow hunting for a couple of years now, I am uneducated when it comes to arrows. I am still shooting the Victory 400 spine arrows the bow shop recommended back when I first started. So I am looking to learn.
I kind of understand the spine number as the stiffness of the arrow. What about the diameter of the arrow? I've seen different sizes. Why the different sizes?
Fletching-- why the different sizes and straight versus helical (I think that is the name).
What am I missing?

sizes, fat arrows are primarily used for tournaments were cutting the ring gets the higher point, fatter shaft= higher score even if only by a couple of points, skinny arrows overcome wind much better, a victory vap will not move as far in the wind as a fat shaft

spine, , stiffness to soft they will not fly well and too stiff the same result,,

fletching, nothing beats feathers for control, nothing beats vanes for durability, short stubby vanes can offer good control but often have clearance problems with some rests and cables,, long vanes can stick out into the rest and tend to wrinkle easier and become louder because of that, feathers tend to be easy to mess up, but still offer great control even missing chunks of them, they tend to be louder than most vanes, and will mat down when wet, that can be countered by silicone spray

in the end vanes are a personal preference just like shafts,, spine is more of a absolute thing than either size or vane,,,
my personal choice is the easton axis arrow, or black eagle renegade with 3" feathers sprayed with silicone, they are heavy enough without being to heavy, they buck wind well and feathers offer the control for the fixed heads i prefer to shoot

[Pineywoods]

I've been bow hunting for 13 years and still don't fully understand some of it it myself. I can tell you what I shoot but not details about why... I started out with Goldtips and moved to Beman's at the recommendation of a buddy years ago. The Bemans are made in the USA and are a great value imo. Now I'm shooting a Beman ICS Hunter Classic 340 with 2" Blazer vanes. They are very consistent and tough. The bow shop recommended moving from a 400 to a 340 spine when I bought my new bow a few years ago. The 340's are cut 28.5" long, are 9.3 grains per inch and have a straightness of +/- .003. I am shooting 70# @ 29.5". I'm going to follow this thread to try and learn something.....

[b.latiolais]

GPI stands for grains per inch. It defines how much an arrow weights. the weight of the arrow plays a big part in kinetic energy or BOOM.

Your arrow spine is determined by your draw length and poundage for the most part. You can go heavier if you like, but not lighter. If you go lighter you run the risk of shattering your arrow upon release. "Not enough spine"... Or at least I think I am correct. Im no pro either. Just some things I've read on here.

[Mudslinger]

Arrow choices need to be matched to the length of the arrow you need, the draw weight of the bow you are shooting and the amount of weight you will have up front with the broadhead and any extra weight you made add to the front such as a heavier insert or rear insert weights. this will increase your FOC (Front of Center) but will also cause you to need a stiffer spine.
KE is for bullets, look at momentum when building an arrow. As far as fletching, helical is what you need for hunting. Use vanes or feathers, your choice as there are pros and cons for each. Most of the carbon arrows you buy will be a small diameter and the times that a samll diameter will help is when shooting with a cross wind (less surface area for the wind to hit) and when going thru a bone.
I shot ACC's for years, went to Gold Tip XT Hunters for a long time but now shoot Black Eagle Carnivores, but I shoot a very heavy arrow and a good amount of FOC.

Muddyfuzzy is an excellent choice if you need to have some arrows built. he will steer you in the right direction.

[bowhunterchris]

No such thing as too much spine I run Black Eagle Carnivore 250s with brass inserts and 510 total grains. Do not have to worry about a shoulder blades stopping the arrow with that set up

[Buck Slayer]

I've been bow hunting for 13 years and still don't fully understand some of it it myself. I can tell you what I shoot but not details about why... I started out with Goldtips and moved to Beman's at the recommendation of a buddy years ago. The Bemans are made in the USA and are a great value imo. Now I'm shooting a Beman ICS Hunter Classic 340 with 2" Blazer vanes. They are very consistent and tough. The bow shop recommended moving from a 400 to a 340 spine when I bought my new bow a few years ago. The 340's are cut 28.5" long, are 9.3 grains per inch and have a straightness of +/- .003. I am shooting 70# @ 29.5". I'm going to follow this thread to try and learn something.....

With a 29.5" draw wouldn't a 28.5" arrow be too short?

[dphillips62]

Muddyfuzzy builds a great arrow I'm shooting his Carnivores and they have made a world of difference not only in my accuracy but him building up my FOC along with a good cut on contact 2 blade head I'm blowing through some pretty big hogs no problem. I'm about to order another set from him in a couple weeks.

[Mudslinger]

With a 29.5" draw wouldn't a 28.5" arrow be too short?

All depends on how long or short you want your arrows and where you want your broadhead to sit in relationship to your hand when you are at full draw. I am a 29" draw but shoot a 28" arrow and could shoot shorter if I wanted.

[Stoof]

With a 29.5" draw wouldn't a 28.5" arrow be too short?

Nope. I shoot a 28.5 draw and my arrows are 27.25.

Y'all should ask yourself a few questions about your goals too.
Do you want speed or punch or a happy medium? There are allot of factors and personal preferences in arrow choice.

[Buck Slayer]

All depends on how long or short you want your arrows and where you want your broadhead to sit in relationship to your hand when you are at full draw. I am a 29" draw but shoot a 28" arrow and could shoot shorter if I wanted.

Hmm ok, only reason I asked is because I lack arrow knowledge as well and just had my draw length adjusted to 30" and was curious what was the shortest length arrow I could run while still maintaining a safe length. Sorry for any thread hijacking.

[Puncher51]

Hmm ok, only reason I asked is because I lack arrow knowledge as well and just had my draw length adjusted to 30" and was curious what was the shortest length arrow I could run while still maintaining a safe length. Sorry for any thread hijacking.

I'm glad you brought it up! I was reading an article earlier and it said your arrow should be 0.5"-1.0" longer than your draw length. Apparently that isn't accurate.