Explain Arrow choice

[Buck Slayer]

I'm glad you brought it up! I was reading an article earlier and it said your arrow should be 0.5"-1.0" longer than your draw length. Apparently that isn't accurate.

That's what the guys at WHA told me as well... Hence the reason i am confused

[sniper steve]

That's what the guys at WHA told me as well... Hence the reason i am confused

Longer arrow keeps the broadhead out front of the bow and away from your fingers. But you can definitely go shorter. Most rests end up well behind the grip, which is where your draw length is measured from.

[mpotts]

Even though I have been bow hunting for a couple of years now, I am uneducated when it comes to arrows. I am still shooting the Victory 400 spine arrows the bow shop recommended back when I first started. So I am looking to learn.
I kind of understand the spine number as the stiffness of the arrow. What about the diameter of the arrow? I've seen different sizes. Why the different sizes?
Fletching-- why the different sizes and straight versus helical (I think that is the name).
What am I missing?


Bish just asked a question on another thread about GPI? What is that?

GPI= grain per inch that multiplied by the length of the arrow will give you the total weight of the arrow.

[Chad74]

Good info guys/gals. Keep it coming

[buxNdux]

I don't know if it has been mentioned.. but as your arrow is cut static spine increases.. Static spine is measured with I believe 2 lbs of weight in the center of a 29" arrow. The spine is simply the amount of flex measured by that particular shaft. So if a 29" arrow flexes .3 inches you multiply that x1000 to get spine 300 spine. Dynamic spine is the amount of flex that occurs when the shot is fired from your bow.. Many factors can influence dynamic spine.. Draw poundage, point weight, again arrow length, ect ect.. And when shooting at distances a spine that is too stiff WILL effect flight..

[PondPopper]

Do yourself, the animals and your bow limbs a favor, Shoot a heavy arrow.. Heavy carbon..
With the speed and power of today's bows and the choices that we have in great broad heads these days, Poor penetration shouldn't happen. Not dying it has to you but is see it a lot..

[diamond10x]

Arrow choice is dependent on what your task or goal is. First decision to be made is what is that task or goal. Second decision is selecting an arrow of appropriate spine strength in accordance to draw weight and arrow length. From there decisions on straightness and weight tolerances can be made. Next is mostly preference when it comes to fletchings and other things.

Say you're wanting to shoot Mulies out west, Easton axis would be a good choice with the small diameter being less affected to wind when shooting 60, 70, 80 yards. A good hunting arrow is heavier, giving more KE or punch through, and quiets the bow some.

Say you're a 3D shooter, you're gonna want something lighter with bigger diameter, so it's flatter shooting and gives more room for error when having to shoot estimated distances and can help with breaking lines on the target.

[flywise]

I'm subscribing to this for the responses. I'm embarrassed to say I've been a bow hunter for 10 years and still shoot the same type of arrow that was recommended to me by a friend. Have absolutely no reasoning behind it.

I did that for 25 years........and it worked out just fine

[Steel185]

Arrow choice is dependent on what your task or goal is. First decision to be made is what is that task or goal. Second decision is selecting an arrow of appropriate spine strength in accordance to draw weight and arrow length. From there decisions on straightness and weight tolerances can be made. Next is mostly preference when it comes to fletchings and other things.

Say you're wanting to shoot Mulies out west, Easton axis would be a good choice with the small diameter being less affected to wind when shooting 60, 70, 80 yards. A good hunting arrow is heavier, giving more KE or punch through, and quiets the bow some.

Say you're a 3D shooter, you're gonna want something lighter with bigger diameter, so it's flatter shooting and gives more room for error when having to shoot estimated distances and can help with breaking lines on the target.

This^^^

I'll add that once you get in the "ball park" of stiffness according to Draw length and draw weight, each bow is a little different and likes stiffness a little different. Ammo Reloaders can tell you they work on the grouping and it depends on what the gun likes, you have to play around with combinations until you get the best grouping. Very similar to arrows.

There isn't a one all answer because there are a lot of variables, hunting area, air temp, air pressure, wind, nock, stiffness, tip weight, tip length, insert weight, FOC, fletching material, fletching design, fletching size, arrow diameter, arrow weight per inch. If you have a set up that works, and one of these changes your set up might be slightly different, you might not notice it, or you might.

The best way is to use a mechanical shooter (make, buy, barrow one) and use that to test arrow flight and grouping, this rules out "the archer" making mistakes and blaming the arrow. Start with an arrow you can afford (if it works you will be buying several dozens in the future) and use the current set up you have. see if that groups well on the mechanical shooter, or you shooting at the same spot.

There is tons of information on you tube on tuning your arrows that addresses specific issues to your groupings. but you can see that arrow building is a art and can end up being a hobby until it self. I got a good set up, its not earth shatteringly awesome, but it groups better than i can shoot so i use it(i'm the weakest link in the gear). At some point you have to say " this is good enough, lets go hunt"!

[lgc999]

With a 29.5" draw wouldn't a 28.5" arrow be too short?

Exactly what I was thinking when I read that

[flywise]

Exactly what I was thinking when I read that

Not if you have an overdraw in place

[Pineywoods]

Not too short at all. My QAD HDX sits back and I have plenty of arrow sticking past. I said my pull is 29.5" but actually it is 29" with a 1/2" d-loop.

[AJ the TP Guru]

If you can group them at 20 yds., it's the right arrow.

Arrows are personal - guys can be just as adamant about their arrows as their trucks or bows.

Personally, I like the FMJ for its lesser wind resistance and greater penetration. Blazer vanes work great on just about every arrow (excepting trad). You'll likely try many different broadheads, and again, there are the fanboys. Shoot what ya feel good about and can afford.

[Steel185]

With a 29.5" draw wouldn't a 28.5" arrow be too short?

It really depends on your riser. Its easy to check. take an arrow put some masking tape on it and mark off the inches and 1/2 inches. I'd just do the last 6 inches of the arrow or so. Come to full draw and have someone tell you where the front edge of the rest is. I have a 28.5" draw on my Primal and I can get down at a 26.5" arrow. This puts the broadhead .75" from my rest. I don't use this arrow set up any longer but it was something i was experimenting with a while back.

[enewman]

I don't know if it has been mentioned.. but as your arrow is cut static spine increases.. Static spine is measured with I believe 2 lbs of weight in the center of a 29" arrow. The spine is simply the amount of flex measured by that particular shaft. So if a 29" arrow flexes .3 inches you multiply that x1000 to get spine 300 spine. Dynamic spine is the amount of flex that occurs when the shot is fired from your bow.. Many factors can influence dynamic spine.. Draw poundage, point weight, again arrow length, ect ect.. And when shooting at distances a spine that is too stiff WILL effect flight..

Static spine is tested at 28 inches and with a 1.94 lb weight. On stiff spine. You won't see a problem till around 80 yards with an to stiff arrow. Under that stiff spine means nothing. Shot as stiff as you want. As long as it's a release shot bow.

Everything else you wrote is good.