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Safety switch jumper help .
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Turn the switch on and find the hot wire. To do this, put your volt/ohm meter on DC voltage and place or clamp the black wire to the frame of the mower. Use the red probe and touch each of the four wire (with the plug inserted into its' mate. My guess is that the hot wire will be the black or blue wires. Once you find the hot wire, turn off the switch and unplug the two halves of the connector. Switch your meter to ohms and use the red probe on the six wire that you know are not hot to see if there is continuity to ground. My guess is once again that the black or blue will be ground. Next, remove the black probe from the frame and check for continuity in the orange wires in each connector. I'm thinking that one half will show continuity and the other half will be open. The half that is open will be the circuit with the faulty safety switch. Put a jumper wire between the two orange wires on the other connector and see if the starter will crank the engine. I only mention finding the hot and ground so that you know to avoid jumpering the hot to ground. Logic tells me that the orange is the safety circuit that has an open safety switch. I'm hoping that one plug contains the beginning of the safety lock-out loop and the other is connected to the starting and ignition circuits. Shorting across those two wires will allow the mower to run. The next step is to find which safety switch does not have continuity. I wired across the seat switch and left the blade (pto) switch in the circuit on my mower. You be the judge about what to wire around and what to leave functional. Simply wiring around all of the safety switches is foolish but understandable if you have to get a job done right away.
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I put a jumper on mine and it worked right off the bat. I can check it when I get home and see if its the same. As mentioned in another post, I have two more switches with a plunger on them thats connected to the steering arms. I did have one of those get filled with dust and dirt that acted up once.
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You probably have already thought of this but I once could not get my zero turn to start and thought it was a faulty safety switch under the seat. After messing with it for a good while I figured out it was a safety switch on the lap bars. Some debris had collected down in there so the safety switch wouldn't engage when the lap bars were in the neutral position.
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I used to fight with the PTO pull switch as well as the handle safety switches on mine. Whenever it wouldn't start, I would just jiggle each one individually while trying to start until I figured out which one it was. Takes a few minutes sometimes. On mine, the steering handle switches would need to be cleaned fairly often. With all those wires, I'm guessing that plug goes to the PTO switch?
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Originally posted by bowhntrmatt View PostI used to fight with the PTO pull switch as well as the handle safety switches on mine. Whenever it wouldn't start, I would just jiggle each one individually while trying to start until I figured out which one it was. Takes a few minutes sometimes. On mine, the steering handle switches would need to be cleaned fairly often. With all those wires, I'm guessing that plug goes to the PTO switch?
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i had an constant issue with the parking break safety switch on my Kubota Zero turn. Jumping it wasn't an option because the switch had to be activated to start the engine yet de-activated before you could engage the PTO, my solution was a toggle switch so I could activate / de-activate at will.
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