Metal building with brick front question?

[Big Todd]

I am in the process of welding a new shop for myself. It is going to have a pipe frame and metal sides but the front facing the road I am putting limestone to match my house about three foot up for looks only. I know the metal will come all the way down to the slab but how is the stone done then. Is there any type of moisture barrier to keep metal from rusting behing bricks? How is the to ledge done? Is there a trim kit they make for this? I know I have seen buildings like this does anyone have experience in this?
Thanks

[Atfulldraw]

You can just have them drop metal studs (or even wood ones) in the front wall.

Install sheathing and tyvek and then stone/brick it up like normal construction.

I can't think of an advantage to having the metal behind the brick....

[rjet]

I am in the process of welding a new shop for myself. It is going to have a pipe frame and metal sides but the front facing the road I am putting limestone to match my house about three foot up for looks only. I know the metal will come all the way down to the slab but how is the stone done then. Is there any type of moisture barrier to keep metal from rusting behing bricks? How is the to ledge done? Is there a trim kit they make for this? I know I have seen buildings like this does anyone have experience in this?
Thanks

My neighbor is doing the exact same thing you are about to do, with brick 4 foot high all around due to neighborhood restrictions.
Slab was poured with room for the brick outside of the wall. His biggest problem was how to seal the grooves in the siding where it meets the brick and his first solution by the metal building manufacturer he bought from was a foam to spray in the grooves.
Now what he is going to do is cut cut the metal siding to reach the perlin at the 4 foot mark. He is going to use OSB for the bottom 4 foot. Mueller (different manufacturer than who he bought from) is going to build him some angled pieces that will fit on the perlin that the siding will attach too and will also overlap the brick.
Not sure if perlin is the correct term, what I am talking about is the horizontal pieces that the siding attaches too.

[Philip-TX]

Did you pour a brick ledge in the slab?
Similar to this:


Do you have a slab? If not you would probably need a steel lintel (angle) to carry the brick or conc. curb to set masonry on.

Be sure and put ties back to the structural wall & weep hole on the bottom course.
Similar to this....

[Big Todd]

I have not poored the slab yet, but yes the lip for the brick is being figured into it. Maybe the metal doesn't go all the way down. I just figured it did. We have mueller here local maybe I should go talk to them. I am doing all the work myself, I have about 80 sticks of pipe so all I have to buy is perlin, sheet metal, screws and welding rods.

[Dale Moser]

Run the R-panel all the way down just as you normaly would, but cut it off 1/2 inch above the level of the top of the brick. The R-panel would still run down to slab level, it'll just have a "seam" horizontaly just above the top edge of the brick. Then have Mueller bend you a piece of flashing that will go up behind the R-panel above the brick, then come out over the top of the brick, and turn down the face of the wall an inch or so.


I'm not sure if that's how "They" do it or not, but that's how I'd do it.

[Philip-TX]

Mueller should have some details to help you.

[Texastaxi]

Something like this, Dale?

[Dale Moser]

Something like that....

I drew a picture as well but I'm not smart enough to convert it from BMP.

[Philip-TX]

Add sheathing, felt, air space, brick ties, flashing, and weep holes...

Get-R-Done

[Big Todd]

Appreciate the input. Anyone else seen anything different? I like the running the flashing over the brick. Makes sense. Only reason I'd run metal all the way down is for appearence from inside shop. have it uniform

[Dale Moser]

Flashing would be flat though.....



And go ahead and run the r-panel to the ground too.

[Texastaxi]

I've seen them bend actual sheets, so the profile of the flashing matches the panel ...


that's why mine was THICK!

[Dale Moser]

Then it sticks out from the face of the brick too far and bugs and birds get in there, not to mention it looks funny.

[Texastaxi]

That's what the WEATHER SEAL is for, Dale!