New bow on the way! :)

[60 Deluxe]

Is it here yet?

[Junkers88]

Is it here yet?

Got notification that it's been delivered to the house but I'm still at work. Knowing my mail person like I do it's probably laying in the back of his truck forgotten........


Richard.

[CRM_95]

Got notification that it's been delivered to the house but I'm still at work. Knowing my mail person like I do it's probably laying in the back of his truck forgotten........


Richard.

I hate waiting on stuff to be delivered. The day my Widow came, I looked like a tweeker all day peeking out the blinds waiting on the UPS guy.

[Junkers88]

Little tease before I find something to use to polish it a bit.




Now all I have to do is get the string from Daniel and we'll see about pulling this beast.


Richard.

[Junkers88]

Ok I need some advice on cleaning this bow. It's in really great shape for it's age. No scratches or cuts other than the one near the written script on it. I pulled the rest and plate off as they were both very very worn. The plate had a small piece of match stick under it making it pooch out a bit in the middle and I have not idea why it was there. Anyway I can't get the old adhesive off. I tried a little bit of Goo Gone but was afraid to mess up the finish. It's not really a big deal as I'll replace the rest with a small piece of sticky backed velcro and I'll order a period correct leather plate for it. Now what I really want to do is shine it up all over so that the first couple of times I pull it I can stop and take a long hard look at the limbs for any stresses. I'm confident this is for sure a shooter and have no worries that it'll fail but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Advice on a good solution to polish it with?


Richard.

[KenWood]

The match stick was to build out for a weak shaft or to gain clearance. I would just scrub it off with water and some soap. Nice bow!

[Dry Bones]

I have used a small extra piece of leather under the rest before. My Pearson Rogue has a long flat shelf and I wanted to give it a bit of a radius. As stated above, just clearance. I was told by a few older men that it was common for them to place a piece of match stick under the rest. That and on the side of the riser as a sight... But don't tell anyone about the sight stick. Then there would be this HUGE debate over sights ain't traditional. LOL
I'll agree with warm water and mild soap. I have had some limited success with rubbing a little cooking oil on old glue residue and then cleaning it. For whatever reason the oil seems to lift it sometimes.

[60 Deluxe]

I use alcohol followed by Color Back followed by Meguiars pre wax glaze followed by Turtle Wax.

I see that it is a 1969.

[Junkers88]

I use alcohol followed by Color Back followed by Meguiars pre wax glaze followed by Turtle Wax.

I see that it is a 1969.

Thank you. Yes it's a 69. From what I've read it's an all wood non-fascor bow so I'm thinking it'll draw differently than the 72 you sold me. I might be wrong but I'm hoping it'll be a more "pure" draw.


Richard.

edit: I watched a 69 Griz pulling 40lbs go for $420 on Ebay the same day I bought this one for $157.35 (+$20 shipping). I think I made out well.

[SwampRabbit]

edit: I watched a 69 Griz pulling 40lbs go for $420 on Ebay the same day I bought this one for $157.35 (+$20 shipping). I think I made out well.

Lighter bows are worth more because they are higher in demand. There is a reason that the clearance rack for clothing mainly have sizes 2XL, 3XL, etc.

Ever wonder why most of the bows being sold on the classifieds... that are still around for you to see them are all 60# bows?

[justintyme8303]

Thank you. Yes it's a 69. From what I've read it's an all wood non-fascor bow so I'm thinking it'll draw differently than the 72 you sold me. I might be wrong but I'm hoping it'll be a more "pure" draw.

I was reading this today.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-To-Date-Your-Fred-Bear-Bow-/10000000001896218/g.html

4. All Wood vs Laminate: If your bow is ALL wood (no laminations of any kind) then your bow had to be made before the mass productions beginning in 1949.
If the ALL wood bow has a stamp that reads "Bear Products" in some form it would have been made before the early to mid 40's.
If it is stamped "Bear Archery" it would have been made AFTER the early-mid 40's and BEFORE 1949.
Also wooden bows with a small "Running Bear" decal can be dated to 1948

[Junkers88]

I was reading this today.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-To-Date-Your-Fred-Bear-Bow-/10000000001896218/g.html

4. All Wood vs Laminate: If your bow is ALL wood (no laminations of any kind) then your bow had to be made before the mass productions beginning in 1949.
If the ALL wood bow has a stamp that reads "Bear Products" in some form it would have been made before the early to mid 40's.
If it is stamped "Bear Archery" it would have been made AFTER the early-mid 40's and BEFORE 1949.
Also wooden bows with a small "Running Bear" decal can be dated to 1948

Thanks for the information. I might have mixed up the fascor and laminate terms in my head.



Richard.

[Junkers88]

Lighter bows are worth more because they are higher in demand. There is a reason that the clearance rack for clothing mainly have sizes 2XL, 3XL, etc.

Ever wonder why most of the bows being sold on the classifieds... that are still around for you to see them are all 60# bows?

So what you're saying is that in order for me to increase my collection of vintage Bear bows while saving money is to get strong enough to pull 60+lbs?


Challenge accepted!


Richard.

[Briar Friar]

Good luck and have fun Junkers!

I gave myself tennis elbow shooting my ambidextrous Lynx recurve 54@28. Thankfully I could still scratch the itch by changing from shooting left to shooting right.

[Dry Bones]

Not sure if that was a challenge there Richard, but I think you are getting the Trad Habit bug. I had quite a few at one time, close to a dozen. Now I am back to about half.
Any update on the string? Ready to see the first few shots.