Shooting 600 spines out of a 45lb bow. Won't damage the bow will it?

[Junkers88]

Well my lab decided to chew up three of my new arrows while I was inside with my grandson. Maybe it's a sign.

Our bulldog ate a dozen of my S nocks and I'm sure they're out in the yard in a nice neat pile somewhere but I don't really want to go look for them so I understand your pain.

I'm guessing from the "Pope and Young" status that you have that you've been shooting for a while. Have you had a chance to bare shaft tune your remaining shafts? Now that I actually understand the concept of tuning it makes it rather easy to figure out which weight point gets you closest to a nock-centered flight and it's simply a matter of trimming from there.

Hope that helps.

Richard.

[DRT]

Hate to strip new fletchings from new arrows.

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[Junkers88]

Hate to strip new fletchings from new arrows.

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I didn't realize they were fletched already. In that case you can paper tune them. Same concept as bare shaft although you shoot through a sheet of paper instead of into a target. It'll give a better representation of what the arrow is doing in flight than bare shafting will.

Richard.

[DRT]

I've paper tuned many a compound. However I don't have a clue if my form is right. Being an accomplished compound hunter seems totally irrelevant at this point. I'm used to knowing who I am, what my equipment is and why to buy and do to make things work perfect. This is very humbling and discouraging.

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[Junkers88]

Brother I don't know anything about compounds and completely agree that there are few things as humbling as traditional gear. Discouragement is part of the fun for me as it makes those one or two good shots that much more amazing.

Keep at it!

[Bisch]

I've paper tuned many a compound. However I don't have a clue if my form is right. Being an accomplished compound hunter seems totally irrelevant at this point. I'm used to knowing who I am, what my equipment is and why to buy and do to make things work perfect. This is very humbling and discouraging.

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Don't be discouraged!!!! You are in a place every single one of has been in before you.

Bisch

[DRT]

I'm sure. But discouraged doesn't mean done. How far from the paper do you stand with a recurve?

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[Bisch]

I'm sure. But discouraged doesn't mean done. How far from the paper do you stand with a recurve?

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Paper tuning with a stick bow is just about the same as with a compound. For stickbows stand 6' from the paper. Shoot, analyze, and adjust till you get the bullet hole (Because the feathers give some, the bullet hole will not look like it does with a compound. You won't see the distinct slits like with plastic vanes). Then move back to 15' and verify that the hole is still good.

Then get some field point arrows and broadhead arrows (no paper for this). Shoot both and verify that they both impact in the same place.

Here is a guide to help you know what to adjust, based on the tear. (don't worry about how this chart is titled at the top) This is for right handed shooters. Everything except nock point is opposite for lefty's.



When you paper tune a stickbow, work on getting the nocking point correct first. This is achieved by getting the nocking point set such that there is no more vertical tear.

After the nocking point is correct, start to work on the spine. Make adjustments based on the tear till there is no horizontal tear. When you get here, you will have the bullet hole.

For a weak spine tear, you have to lower point/insert weight and or shorten shaft length.

For a stiff spine tear you have to increase point/insert weight and/or lengthen shaft.

One other thing I will add; if you don't have good form, you will beat your head against the wall trying to get this to work (any tuning method, for that matter). It takes a certain level of consistency to yield consistent results when tuning. If you can't seem to get results that tell you anything, or get the same result, no matter what changes you make, quit tuning, and go work on your form some more.

Bisch

[DRT]

I need to build a new paper rack I guess. Appreciate the help.

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[Wayne Meuir]

Junker88, have you shot the CE250's yet? I have a dozen CE150's that are too stiff for my 45# recurve with 145's on them. I expect with a 250, you are going to really have to load the front end up.

One other tidbit: I was shooting some GT Ultra Lights in a 40# Ben Pearson bow that was in really good condition for its age. Bow developed a hinge in the upper limb. Arrows were simply so light, it was like dry firing the bow ever shot.

Wayne

[Junkers88]

Junker88, have you shot the CE250's yet? I have a dozen CE150's that are too stiff for my 45# recurve with 145's on them. I expect with a 250, you are going to really have to load the front end up.

One other tidbit: I was shooting some GT Ultra Lights in a 40# Ben Pearson bow that was in really good condition for its age. Bow developed a hinge in the upper limb. Arrows were simply so light, it was like dry firing the bow ever shot.

Wayne

I have not shot the 250s yet as I'm awaiting a new string to use when I tune them. The plan up front for those shafts is 100g insert fronted by either a 100g or 150g broadhead.

Richard