A little background. I've been reloading for close to 50 years, Dad taught me as a young boy, and I've never gone above book max. After he died, I found load data on several of his rifles that are above book max, some by 3-4 grains. With that said, I've done a bunch of reading, trying to learn how to read pressure signs, and I just ain't sure, as I don't see any difference between book max and 2 grains over max. No heavy bolt lift, nothing. Here's a pic of the brass. Bottom row is book max and top row is 2 grains over. I know I shouldn't go above book max, and don't suggest anyone go above, I'm just trying to see how high I can go before pressure signs show up. I know I will hear plenty of people say I should stop, and I prob will, but I'd just like to know from others who have chased max if they see any pressure signs. The cases are fine and I feel no headspace ridge inside the case. Bergara Ridge rifle shooting 140gr Berger Elite Hunter bullets at 2.83 OAL. I will say this, great groups at book max and the same group at 2 grains over, not so much in between. Thanks folks
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Originally posted by Walker View PostI see more primer flow around pin mark on top row than bottom. Can't tell from picture but I bet a close examination you'll find slightly more primer flattening as you go up from bottom row to top.
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Pressure signs usually don’t show up until you are way over max. Usually around 70,000 psi. Still probably safe in modern guns but brass life will be short lived. Different brands of brass will show different signs of pressure. So will your barrel cleaning regimen. Don’t clean your barrel and it will develop a carbon ring that would eventually increase pressure. I go by what my chronograph tells me. When I reach the velocity common for the caliber and bullet weight I’m probably maxed out.I’ve come to realize that an extra 100 fps doesn’t kill any better.
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Originally posted by M16 View PostPressure signs usually don’t show up until you are way over max. Usually around 70,000 psi. Still probably safe in modern guns but brass life will be short lived. Different brands of brass will show different signs of pressure. So will your barrel cleaning regimen. Don’t clean your barrel and it will develop a carbon ring that would eventually increase pressure. I go by what my chronograph tells me. When I reach the velocity common for the caliber and bullet weight I’m probably maxed out.I’ve come to realize that an extra 100 fps doesn’t kill any better.
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Another thing to consider is that all load manuals aren’t created equal. Hornady data seems pretty watered down.
so your 2 grains over max in one book may be max or slightly under according to another book.
edit: I know I said hornady was usually watered down, but they show a max charge of 41.5gr H4350 with a 140 ELDM in 6.5 creedmoor. Hodgdon shows a max of 40.0. I wish everyone would get on the same page lolLast edited by TacticalCowboy; 12-03-2024, 09:44 AM.
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Originally posted by TacticalCowboy View PostAnother thing to consider is that all load manuals aren’t created equal. Hornady data seems pretty watered down.
so your 2 grains over max in one book may be max or slightly under according to another book.
edit: I know I said hornady was usually watered down, but they show a max charge of 41.5gr H4350 with a 140 ELDM in 6.5 creedmoor. Hodgdon shows a max of 40.0. I wish everyone would get on the same page lol
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I've only been reloading for about 4 years but my FIL who teaches me has been doing it for 40+ and he's always told me pick the book you like and go with their max or near the max then load up and down at .5gr increments and let the crono tell you what is best. One of the loads that worked best for the 6.5cm was close to 5gr over max in the hornady manual, then I changed to ADG brass from Nosler and my SD was completely different.
I agree with M16, a little hotter doesn't make em anymore dead and my misses at long range still aren't on target
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Originally posted by jomw10 View PostThe Max reported on the books is for a specific rifle, barrel, primer, case combination.
different test guns will result in different max. Anything different and your max will be different than the book. That’s why you should start below max.
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Originally posted by hooligan View PostI've only been reloading for about 4 years but my FIL who teaches me has been doing it for 40+ and he's always told me pick the book you like and go with their max or near the max then load up and down at .5gr increments and let the crono tell you what is best. One of the loads that worked best for the 6.5cm was close to 5gr over max in the hornady manual, then I changed to ADG brass from Nosler and my SD was completely different.
I agree with M16, a little hotter doesn't make em anymore dead and my misses at long range still aren't on target
I agree. At the ranges I hunt, 30-30 will work. We do like to stretch out to 1000 target shooting in the off season.
Thanks for the reply.
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I first started reloading in 1972. I've loaded for 40 plus calibers and more rifles than I can remember. That top row is too hot. Primer flow is excessive. It looks like it's approaching a pierced primer. I've never seen but one rifle that shot better groups loaded really hot than it did backed off a bit. You are not in a danger zone, but your primer pockets will loosen up quickly and case mouths start cracking. Brass life goes away quickly at that level. It's easier on brass and the rifle if you back off a little.
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Originally posted by geezer56 View PostI first started reloading in 1972. I've loaded for 40 plus calibers and more rifles than I can remember. That top row is too hot. Primer flow is excessive. It looks like it's approaching a pierced primer. I've never seen but one rifle that shot better groups loaded really hot than it did backed off a bit. You are not in a danger zone, but your primer pockets will loosen up quickly and case mouths start cracking. Brass life goes away quickly at that level. It's easier on brass and the rifle if you back off a little.
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Originally posted by huntandfishguy6 View PostAs stated above there is a significant deviation between reloading manuals. I have old reloading manuals, and newer ones. It continues to surprise me in the differences, and I have been loading for forty three years.
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