Starting a Fall Food Plot - Need Help

[bgleaton]

I have seen some other discs on Tractor Supply or Northern, but I read reviews that they are fairly cheaply built. I want something that will last.

[JAB71]

I have a 75 hp new holland tractor and bought a 8ft Armstrong HD2420. It has been great. I paid around 1900 new. It covers the wheel base. Hope that helps.

[Drycreek3189]

I have seen some other discs on Tractor Supply or Northern, but I read reviews that they are fairly cheaply built. I want something that will last.

Landpride is what I bought. Heavy duty and tough disk. Compare the weights on same size disks, and go with the heavier. Heavier usually means better. And spring for the extra money for cleaners to be added, you won't regret it.

Edit: If all your soils are sandy, you probably won't need cleaners. I do, but not all my soils are sandy. Good luck !

[Sergio_III]

Forgot to mention this before but avoid any with angle iron frames!

[bgleaton]

Do you guys think a disc harrow that weighs around 950lbs is heavy enough? I like the 7ft DH1296 land pride disc.

[gonehuntin]

I have a 8' 2"Athens 55 disk that weighs 1321 lbs. and have no problem disking up my plots.

[EastTexun]

Do you guys think a disc harrow that weighs around 950lbs is heavy enough? I like the 7ft DH1296 land pride disc.

You can always add weight if it doesn't cut the way you want it to. I added 2 55 gallon drums full of water to my disc and it made a world of difference.

Based on the sizes of plots you have described earlier, you might consider an 8ft pull type disc instead of a 3pt disc. Generally speaking they will cut better and easier to manage on the depth of cut. Downside is that they are harder to work in a tight space and most require hydraulics to raise and lower. I am in the process of getting a 9ft pull type which will replace my 6ft 3pt disc.

[bgleaton]

I like those pull type discs, but man those are a lot more expensive than the 3pt discs. I think we may go with the 3pt disc and start with that. I really appreciate everyone's help on this.

[BIG BONE]

cheapest and easiest way
1-soil sample. you got that
2-if field is unlevel or bumpy then i would have a farmer come in and use his big disk and disk it really good and have him cultipack it too after disking.
3-spread all your lime/phospours etc after cultipacking. i like to get my lime and etc on the ground a couple months before planting.
4-spray a kill all 10-14 days before planting.
5-have a farmer come in and use a no-til to plant.

[dbaio1]

Thanks for all of the information.

I have a question about planting clovers. There is a neat article from the NRCS that talks about planting food plots in West Texas:

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs144p2_002428.pdf

It says to use a mixture of oats, wheat and yellow/white sweetclovers for West Texas. I always thought that all of the other clovers (durana white clover, red clovers) needed a lot of moisture and good soils. Will these clovers really grow in West Texas? As it stands now, I think we are going to try to do the following:
1. Mow grass very low (look at spraying if grass is very thick)
2. Spread fertilizer
3. Find a used disk or rent a disk to disk up soil
4. Broadcast wheat and oats
5. Drag or disk the wheat and oats into soil around 1/4in to 1/2in
6. Broadcast clovers, turnips, and other smaller seeds
7. Use a drag to provide a good seed to soil contact

Are there any other seeds that will help provide great nutrition into the Spring and are also drought resistant?

I would recommend you spray your grass and weeds and kill them first. We usually wait 15-20 days before doing anything after spraying
Then spread your fertilizer and/or lime and disk it all up really good not going too deep.
I would spread my all my seed and drag only once if you putting them all in the same plots. Over dragging can bury the seed to deep.

Been planting food plots for over 30 years on our place. Spraying grass and weeds first is something we didn't do until a farmer became part of our group. Now for the past 15 years we spray and it produces a better seed bed and food plot results.

Good luck

[bgleaton]

cheapest and easiest way
1-soil sample. you got that
2-if field is unlevel or bumpy then i would have a farmer come in and use his big disk and disk it really good and have him cultipack it too after disking.
3-spread all your lime/phospours etc after cultipacking. i like to get my lime and etc on the ground a couple months before planting.
4-spray a kill all 10-14 days before planting.
5-have a farmer come in and use a no-til to plant.

You think it would be cheaper to hire someone to come in and do all of this for us vs purchasing a disc? I agree that it would be easier, but I figured it would cost us a lot to get someone out to our place especially since we are only talking about one food plot. How much do you think it would cost to have someone come out to disk, level and then seed? I'm all for having someone come out and do it the first year to really get the soil in good condition, plus I'm sure I could learn a lot by watching and talking with them.

[EastTexun]

I like those pull type discs, but man those are a lot more expensive than the 3pt discs. I think we may go with the 3pt disc and start with that. I really appreciate everyone's help on this.

You are correct there. Tractorhouse.com is your friend when it comes to ag equipment. Discs are hard to break, so buying used may be a better option no matter what.

[BURTONboy]

Find somebody that knows a thing or two about impliments and go to an auction and pick one up in good/decent shape. Probably be much cheaper and you should be able to get more for your money.

[BIG BONE]

Yes sir just as a one time deal. So that they can really smooth the field is really important. Then after this year I would buy a used no-till and never disk again. All you will ever have to do then is spray a kill all and plant along with a soil test once a year. All we use our disk for is breaking up raw land and fire breaks. If you have other areas where you want plots I would have the farmer hit them while he is there too. Trust me. It's way cheaper spending a couple hundred dollars one time if you decide to go the no till way. Spend the money on the drill. Send me a pm if you wanna talk and I'll give you my number if you need some advice.

[bloodstick]

Starting a Fall Food Plot - Need Help

This tear is my first to plant a large food plot. Last season i just used a hand rake then broadcast the small "no till" seeds from tractor supply in a little hole in the woods. It didnt do very well at all.
But my main question is, how long does it usually take for the kill all type sprays to become neutral and not hurt the plot you are trying to plant? And does it negatively affect the fertilizer process if done close together?

Edit:
I already have all of the equipment needed for this process with the exception of a large sprayer and drag.
My FIL just purchased a new 80 hp Deere and will let me use it when ever. Also have the mower and a good disc. The pasture i want to plant is an unfertilized hay pasture. It has a ton of potential and we already cut it for hay each year so the soil isnt too horrible. Coastal grows really well all on its own already.
So my point being, should i spray, or just mow, disc, fertilize, then broadcast?