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    Originally posted by Pushbutton2 View Post
    What's not to like?
    The weight. I was trying closer to the 540 mark. Once I shoot it tonight and see what kind of speed I'm getting I might not worry about it. It looks to be flying good.

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      Originally posted by enewman View Post
      The weight. I was trying closer to the 540 mark. Once I shoot it tonight and see what kind of speed I'm getting I might not worry about it. It looks to be flying good.

      Let us know please;-)

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        Originally posted by enewman View Post
        The weight. I was trying closer to the 540 mark. Once I shoot it tonight and see what kind of speed I'm getting I might not worry about it. It looks to be flying good.


        Put a lumenock in jk jk

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          Originally posted by hoyt21 View Post
          Put a lumenock in jk jk
          No. Hehe. I don't want to see my arrow if I miss.


          How is your turbo coming.

          I'm very interested in the out come.

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            Originally posted by enewman View Post
            No. Hehe. I don't want to see my arrow if I miss.


            How is your turbo coming.

            I'm very interested in the out come.
            Right now hanging on a hook at the house lol. I'm in te field should be home maybe end of this week then I'll get some tweaking going on. I know with center shot 13/16 field points and BH'S hitting together. But I saw that Shane sets center at 3/4" then bareshafts tunes to that. So we will see

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              Originally posted by hoyt21 View Post
              Right now hanging on a hook at the house lol. I'm in te field should be home maybe end of this week then I'll get some tweaking going on. I know with center shot 13/16 field points and BH'S hitting together. But I saw that Shane sets center at 3/4" then bareshafts tunes to that. So we will see
              You know center shot is a funny thing. If I set mine by measure to shelve and square. It's 5/8. Testing my arrow last knight. I could get bare shaft to shoot good only with a 125 gn tip. That arrow is overly stiff. Put the 215 tip and way weak. This arrow should have been good according to ot2 program. Set center shot by mathews specs which is 3/4. Now my arrow looks like it's pointing way out side. Now the arrow with the 215 tip shoots good.

              I've always had that problem of where to set center shoot. Lots of people including me have always said square to the bow, but what I'm seeing is this may not be correct. Set to what the manufactures tell you to. I'm thinking since they design the bow they prolly no a little more then we do about where center shot should be.

              With what I've have seen with my testing. I was trying to see how to find out if the arrow was spine correctly. I'm seeing I can spine from 400 to 200 spine arrow. With tips from 100 to 435 gn and I can make them all shoot.
              Bow tuning has to many variables. All will work. You just need to pick a method that works for you.
              What I'm doing is set center shot by manufacture. Then shoot one fletch and one bare at 20 yards. I adjust the tip weight till they are hitting together. If it's not the weight I want or the arrow is not what I want then I make a change and do it again. So far the arrow I just did has a 215 tip. I'm thinking off puting an 240 gn tip. Then shoot and adjust arrow lenth till they are hitting together. Then spine should be good. Then start walk back

              Comment


                Yea I hear you I read up on the chill series and they recommended 13/16" also for my wife's bow. Being that I wouldn't know where to start to yoke tune that bow. I set it there shot her arrows for her and anything from a 600 to 400 spine grouped together. She will be staying with the 400 spine as they are flying like darts and her groups tightened up significantly. I have always set center on my Hoyt's to 13/16th as well. And before I would just make sure BH'S and fps grouped together and would go kill stuff. But after these last couple years I've really have gotten into the tuning process I want to get every last inch power out of my bow. I've been bowhunting since I was 19 and before it was just go kill stuff now it's about mastering my craft. I just wish I could fit a 20 yard range in the house. I prolly can but you all might now hear from me anymore lol.

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                  Haha I shot my daughter dresser once.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by enewman View Post
                    You know center shot is a funny thing. If I set mine by measure to shelve and square. It's 5/8. Testing my arrow last knight. I could get bare shaft to shoot good only with a 125 gn tip. That arrow is overly stiff. Put the 215 tip and way weak. This arrow should have been good according to ot2 program. Set center shot by mathews specs which is 3/4. Now my arrow looks like it's pointing way out side. Now the arrow with the 215 tip shoots good.



                    I've always had that problem of where to set center shoot. Lots of people including me have always said square to the bow, but what I'm seeing is this may not be correct. Set to what the manufactures tell you to. I'm thinking since they design the bow they prolly no a little more then we do about where center shot should be.



                    With what I've have seen with my testing. I was trying to see how to find out if the arrow was spine correctly. I'm seeing I can spine from 400 to 200 spine arrow. With tips from 100 to 435 gn and I can make them all shoot.

                    Bow tuning has to many variables. All will work. You just need to pick a method that works for you.

                    What I'm doing is set center shot by manufacture. Then shoot one fletch and one bare at 20 yards. I adjust the tip weight till they are hitting together. If it's not the weight I want or the arrow is not what I want then I make a change and do it again. So far the arrow I just did has a 215 tip. I'm thinking off puting an 240 gn tip. Then shoot and adjust arrow lenth till they are hitting together. Then spine should be good. Then start walk back

                    Have you tried any yoke tuning on that bow?

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                      Have you tried any yoke tuning on that bow?
                      Man would that be nice. Mathews is a floating yoke. No adjustment. That is part of the reason I do so much on the arrow that way I have as little rest adjustment as possible

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by enewman View Post
                        Man would that be nice. Mathews is a floating yoke. No adjustment. That is part of the reason I do so much on the arrow that way I have as little rest adjustment as possible


                        Wen I spoke with Wes van horn awhile back we talked about mathews yoke system. He said he had a guy come into his shop and actually yoke tune a chill x. I assume it's possible somehow

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by hoyt21 View Post
                          Wen I spoke with Wes van horn awhile back we talked about mathews yoke system. He said he had a guy come into his shop and actually yoke tune a chill x. I assume it's possible somehow
                          They are floating yokes. He would have had to modify the set up. You can twist the yoke that goes to the bearing but after a couple of shots it will just reset.


                          I just wish there was a toqure tammer for the monster. With that the center shot would be down the center

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by enewman View Post
                            Man would that be nice. Mathews is a floating yoke. No adjustment. That is part of the reason I do so much on the arrow that way I have as little rest adjustment as possible

                            What does the top/bottom cam look like at full draw?

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                              What does the top/bottom cam look like at full draw?
                              If your asking about cam lean. With the way I draw my cams at full draw are alittle to the right. Just pass straight up and down. I can fix it with grip. But I've been shooting way to long for me to want to change my grip.

                              What I can tell you is the mr5 with the short cable roller puts a lot of torque on that bow. That is the design of this bow. Looked at making a torque tammer but right now it's not worth the trouble.

                              Comment


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                                You should talk to bear foot archery and see if he has any ideas, he's to original cable rod guru. Just don't know what you would do without the rollover guard.

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