Cant figure bow out.

[JimGates]

Well I have done some research and I'm stumped, thats why I need some help.

[hammackc]

Rocky, Mike, and 3children have finally made some sense. It could be a host of several different things actually. Not many guys on this sight know how to tune bows. They can be a Pope & Young with a million posts and don't know didly about shooting a bow correctly. Ewwwww man, I'm gonna get rashed for this!

Since we dont have his bow in hand it could be several things, but I do know what will fly out of that weight and draw length with Muzzy 4 blade 100's. I realize I have only been shooting and tuning my bows for only 31 years now, but I know a little diddly! Get some hands on good help, learn how to tune your own bow and you want have to listen to us idiots!

[rocky]

My Z7 set at 70lbs 29 inch draw shoots 4 blade Muzzy's dead on same as field points out to 75 yards, but I switched from 340's to 400's cut to 29 inches, I do believe you are over spined, not what you want to hear huh!

I agree your specs are closer to the 400's then 340's.

or a six point that has no feedback.

unless I'm mistaken I said the same thing Mike said, add some weight to see if it starts to correct the problem. I believe 100% there are guys with much more experience . . . Rocky as an example but I'll also say that I think that an arrow can be too stiff for the weight it's being shot at.

The easiest and cheapest way to fix this before you even start messing with your rest is to simply add a crank to your draw weight. . . . shoot again and see what it does. You start moving your rest you better know what your doing. Not hard but also not hard to start moving it all over the place and make the situation worse.

I want to clarify my stance on stiff spined arrows.
With release shot bows, as Javi mentioned, it is rare that 'stiff ' creates a major tuning issue. Rare as in the case of most dual cam systems,(true dual cams,cam& 1/2, Binary cams), or single cam bows that have near level nock travel.
Some single cam bows require a weaker spine due to unlevel nock travel. These are nearly always modular bows, with a generic cam that a lot of small bow companies use, but also includes Diamond bows.
In the event that the arrows is too stiff for these particular bows you will get a low tear in the paper, because the arrow is recovering too quickly from the up and down oscillation caused by a release fired bow, and the arrow ramps off the rest, and the only remedy short of changing spine is to nock the arrow exceptionally high, and increase spring tension on the rest.
With a fall-away rest, you will have to change spine or risk crashing and breaking the rest.
If you are using a stiff bottomed rest, and the arrow is level, you will get a high tear because the back of the arrow 'bounces' off the firm bottom, giving you a false read suggesting a weak arrow.
Finger shot bows have sideways arrow oscillation, causing the left/right tuning issues from improper spine.
I do think that with considerable effort, a shooter can find the 'perfect' spined arrow for his/her bow, by starting long and cutting, but it is rare that a shop owner/technician can spend the time to do this, not to mention the fact that one mans perfect shooting set-up might not shoot worth a darn in another man's hand.
Most of today's bows will shoot a pretty wide range of 'spine' well, simply because the thrust is engineered towards the end of the shot-cycle/ front of the draw cycle, but if i'm gonna have a wrong spine, it's gonna be stiff instead of even borderline weak.

You will get more left/right tuning issues from center-shot, cam lean, and hand placement than you ever will with an arrow that is 'too stiff'.

[jathomas437]

Since we dont have his bow in hand it could be several things, but I do know what will fly out of that weight and draw length with Muzzy 4 blade 100's. I realize I have only been shooting and tuning my bows for only 31 years now, but I know a little diddly! Get some hands on good help, learn how to tune your own bow and you want have to listen to us idiots!

hammackc, the average 'bow hunter' just drops their bow off at the local 'pro shop' and assumes everything is OK when they pick it up. My learning to work on my own equipment was fueled from a local bow shop who was only interested in getting a bow "good enough" and making the sale... NEXT. After all, most shops don't have a shooting range longer than 10 yards, if that, with fieldtips. So, how in the world can you expect a bow to shoot perfect with broadheads 20+ yards, unless you are willing to tune your own bow out to 50 yards? I've obviously nicked a nerve for a lot of people on here. But I honestly feel that this is not the best forum to get bow tuning advise from. I like this forum a lot for almost anything except learning how to shoot or tune a bow. I've seen way too much bad advise to not speak up. Look..., learning to tune your own bow is not for the person who is happy with 'good enough', as a matter of fact, you have to be pretty **** and have an obsession to want everything perfect. It ain't for everyone! If you want to learn, the Internet is a pool of knowledge! If you have a Mathews, get on a Mathews forum. If you have a Hoyt, get on a Hoyt forum, etc... Not just TBH. Get out there and sling a few thousand arrows with what you have learned. Take your bow down to the riser with 3 dozen parts laying on the table, and put it back together with new strings and cables... learn your bow. Do your homework...and start shooting your broadheads with the same accuracy as your fieldpoints out to 50 yards. It ain't your fieldtip's fault guys, it's your lack of putting in any real effort to make your bow shoot perfect. It ain't a riffle, it's a stick and string! I expect to be banned from this sight now...

[txdukklr]

No ones gonna get banned for diagreeing ..... It's why I love this site. No doubt a lot of experience and people who know what they're doing and then there are the rest of us.

Put a turn in and shoot. If it doesn't help take it back out. It'll take 10 minutes and cost nothing, hurts nothing.

[Shane]

I'd speculate that it's a tuning problem more than a spine problem. I know this: Just because a guy works in a bow shop, it doesn't mean he knows how to tune a bow. You either have to learn how to do it yourself, or you have to find a guy that truly knows what he is doing and is a real perfectionist about every little detail. THAT guy will have our bow shooting....well....straight as an arrow. The other guys that work in bow shops will fiddle with it for a few minutes and call it good, but it won't be.

[bigmacdaddy]

Brother, here's a quick solution to your problem:

Start using RageII broadheads. They always fly like fp, and drop game like crazy....
no drawbacks lol

[3children]

Brother, here's a quick solution to your problem:

Start using RageII broadheads. They always fly like fp, and drop game like crazy....
no drawbacks lol

Another fix that doesn't work! Yes shoot a mechanical to hit the same poi, but you didn't fix the problem, did you? Sorry, but that is not a fix! Your bow will still be out of tune. There is only two things that is the cause that I find while broadhead tuning: the rest or the spine. The rest might need something simple like a move, or a timing issue if it is a drop a way. Contact is never the issue if the fps are grouping! Spine, less is not good, but stiff, well I can shoot a .300 with near perfect results in a bh tuned bow, set at 55lbs cut to 27" Of course this is having the same arrows on both the bh and fps, and shooting a tuned bow. There has been a few times when it was the bh, but not with any popular ones.
Pat

[Tubby]

Brother, here's a quick solution to your problem:

Start using RageII broadheads. They always fly like fp, and drop game like crazy....
no drawbacks lol

[Mike Javi Cooper]

I don't know why people have to take something as simple as tuning a bow and make it into something akin to black magic or rocket science.

[JimGates]

Ok brothers lets calm down. I was looking at my bow last night and I think the timing is way off. My bottom cam stop hits way before the top stop. Could this possibly be the problem??

[rocky]

Ok brothers lets calm down. I was looking at my bow last night and I think the timing is way off. My bottom cam stop hits way before the top stop. Could this possibly be the problem??

Usually this will cause a high/low impact issue, but if timing is off other issues most likely exist.

[Mike Javi Cooper]

Jim, take the bow into Scott Whiteford at
Viking Archery
9701 Honeywell St
Houston, TX 77074
(713) 771-1281
and tell him I sent you in there, he'll get you fixed up...

[Goldeneagle]

Jim, take the bow into Scott Whiteford at
Viking Archery
9701 Honeywell St
Houston, TX 77074
(713) 771-1281
and tell him I sent you in there, he'll get you fixed up...

This^^^^^^^^^^^^^. Scott will do you right.

[txdukklr]

another vote for Scott especially good on the Hoyts