Paper Tuning?

[lawdawg02]

Ok... get someone who you can trust to stand behind you while you are at full draw and look up at the idler wheel.. the string should track straight off the idler.. if it is / then you can either add twists to the right side of the yoke or untwist the left side... repeat until the string is | off the idler while you are aiming the bow at full draw.. Make sure you have an arrow nocked on the bow while drawing..

Do not try to look up at the idler yourself, this will induce torque and give false information..

After that forget the laser... they do not work on Mathews bows worth a crap,,, Set the rest so that the center of the arrow shaft measures 11/16" from the side of the cutout...

Now go shoot the paper from 6 ft... and see what you got..

I was just about to ask about the twists in the yoke. I called Mathews and they told me that the bows are shipped from the factory with 12 twists on the right and 9 on the left. Does that sound about right?

[Mike Javi Cooper]

I was just about to ask about the twists in the yoke. I called Mathews and they told me that the bows are shipped from the factory with 12 twists on the right and 9 on the left. Does that sound about right?

That's a starting point, but your hand torque will require tweaking the yoke.. Here is a photo of one that needs a twist or twist & 1/2 in the right yoke...

[rocky]

Just throwing this in the hat...

Are you sure they're not too stiff?

Again,with a release shot bow, stiff is rarely an issue. If it is, it is usually indicated by a low tear, but only if the cam doesn't have near level nock travel.
Finger shooters might experiance stiff arrow problems and left tears due to a stiff arrow, but it is very rare with a release shot bow.
Good nock travel is very forgiving for spine, and a stiff arrow causes less of a problem than weak.

[red]

To check idler wheel lean I take an arrow shaft and hold it flush against the idler with the shaft running along side the string. Give or take a few twists to get it close then I have someone hold the shaft there again while I am at full draw. Then I make the final twist or two if needed to get the idler running straight with the string at full draw

[atexx2]

try walkback tuning is the way to go, paper tuning is not all that it is cracked up to be, try this before you go and change a bunch of stuff

[lawdawg02]

That's a starting point, but your hand torque will require tweaking the yoke.. Here is a photo of one that needs a twist or twist & 1/2 in the right yoke...

I never knew about this. I'm gonna go check this now. I'll let you know what I find out. To CutTheLoop, I'm pretty sure it's not a stiffness problem. I'm shooting what CX recommends according to their charts.

[RLB]

Paper tuning drives me to drinking!!

[old killer]

If you have a left tear add 50 grains to the point and check it. If it improves the tear you know what to do. More point weight or much longer arrows.

[Bearkills]

The myth that release shooters horizontal tears are not a result of an arrow with a mismatched spine was proven a myth years ago by Josh Johnson and crew. It is VERY VERY likely his arrow is too stiff. If you go by a selection chart from the manufacture you can consider yourself a layman and look for someone who can get you an arrow built to the correct specifications. Your hard tear in my opinion is probably a combination of your bow not being tuned and your arrow not matching up with your setup. If you post up your specs then we could probably help you more. DL / DW ... Arrow Brand / Size / Length / Tip weight / Fletching. I have never came across a bow that I couldn't get to shoot bullet holes with some tweaking. I would have to say that anyone who says some bows just can't tune, would be going hard against what I have came to understand with some industry experience. Javi here is an expert in tuning Solo cams, he can make them sing for sure.