Okay, the other day I was in my shop working on my Mathews Reezen. After putting new strings and cables on it, I took it out of the press and decided to paper tune it. I tried tuning it last year and ran into the same "problem" I had this time. I shot it at about 6 feet from the paper and had about a 1 inch left tear. I backed up to about 10 yards and had about a 1 inch right tear. A friend of mine said that fast bows are just hard to tune and some bows just can't be tuned, you can only get close. I trust his opinion because he's been shooting and working on bows for years and even had his own pro shop at one time. I shoot CX Maxima 350's and I know the spine is stiff enough, so that's not the issue. I have been and I am still shooting very tight groups (1-2 inches at 20 and 30 yds and about 4 inch groups at 40 and 50 yards). Should I just forget about trying to get a perfectly tuned bow?
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are those groups with your broadheads? Sounds like you are in pretty good shape to leave it alone. -
No, those are with field points, but I still have tight groups with broadheads.Comment
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Are you planning to shoot animals or paper...Originally posted by lawdawg02 View Post
I could probable fix the problem but if you are satisfied with your groups, then why worry about what the arrow is doing on a piece of paper..
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Don't worry about paper tuning, do a walk back tuning.Comment
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that 2 inch swing may be your normal oscillation range for your setup, as your buddy stated; and as your groups are spot nuts, as long as it is still as quiet as it was before I say your good to go. I shoot a 10 y.o PSE thunderbolt, I never get caught speedin in the school zone, it only runs about 245.Comment
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The Reezens that I have worked on tend to torque stabilizer right, causing center-shot to be outside instead of down the middle of the bow.
I insist on a good paper tear left/right, but I don't mind a slight high tear.
Although paper-tuning is not the end-all of tuning a bow, it lets me know that all components "like" each other, AND more importantly lets me experiment with hand placement as it is usually different from one bow to the next.
I think "walkback" tuning is a waste of time unless your level is level, and only the most expensive sights on the market offer the adjustability to make your level level, and even so, there's not 5 out of 100 of these expensive sights adjusted properly. On most sights today, the level can only be used as a reference, and since they can't be adjusted, they can't be trusted in instances that you have to rely on your level.
This being said, I still rely on paper tuning, then instead of walking back and forth to "tune" my rest with my shooting, I go straight to broadhead tuning.
When it comes to broadhead tuning, it is imperative to have adequate rotation with your arrow. This is only accomplished by using a good bit of offset or helical on the vanes.Comment
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tttComment
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First check that the idler is parrell to the string.
A left tear out of a rh bow means a stiff arrow. To prove or disprove this simply drop to a 75 gr point and check then go to a 150 gr point and check. You can also reduce and increase poundage to check.
Tuning a bow is a combination of arrow length, point weight, and poundage. The torque of fast bows may not let the bow tune in center shot. The center is a start point. You can move the rest in, add point weight,change arrow length, and change poundage.Comment
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I have to disagree. A left tear can be caused by many things, the least probable being a stiff arrow.Originally posted by old killer View Post
Typically with a release shooter and a single cam bow, a low tear would indicate a stiff arrow. With level nock travel single cam bows, this is usually not an issue.
A left tear in most cases indicates rest being left of center-shot, or leaning cam or idler, and improper hand placement/pressure.
If a drop-away rest is being used, the lack of side support offered by the rest will usually cause a left tear when the rest is at center-shot, so center shot will be inside slightly.
This is rarely the case with the Reezen.Comment
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After I changed the strings and cables, I go through the bow and make sure everything is tight and clean and I even put a laser on it to check the centershot. When I started tuning it and moving the rest, by the time I was done the arrow was pointing way off to one side. It decreased the size of the tear a little but not completely. I didn't like what I was seeing so I moved it back to centershot. I was thumpin deer with it that way this past season and have a freezer full of backstraps.Comment
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I never knew that about a fall away rest. I'm using a QAD so that may have something to do with it.Comment
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Regardless of how a bow is tuned, once sighted in, it will hit where you aim, although arrow flight is not straight.Originally posted by lawdawg02 View Post
As I said, and you found on your own, the Reezen tends to tune outside.
You asked.Comment
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Originally posted by lawdawg02 View Post
Ok... get someone who you can trust to stand behind you while you are at full draw and look up at the idler wheel.. the string should track straight off the idler.. if it is / then you can either add twists to the right side of the yoke or untwist the left side... repeat until the string is | off the idler while you are aiming the bow at full draw.. Make sure you have an arrow nocked on the bow while drawing..
Do not try to look up at the idler yourself, this will induce torque and give false information..
After that forget the laser... they do not work on Mathews bows worth a crap,,, Set the rest so that the center of the arrow shaft measures 11/16" from the side of the cutout...
Now go shoot the paper from 6 ft... and see what you got..Comment
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Just throwing this in the hat...Originally posted by lawdawg02 View Post
Are you sure they're not too stiff?Comment
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