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DIY---- Hog Light (Stabalizer Light)

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    Originally posted by Blast-n-cast View Post
    I noticed that when I would un-screw the end cap of the light (to change the batteries) the wires would get twisted up. The battery pack fits snug inside the flashlight so that it does not move around too much so as you un-screw the end cap with your wires running through it they get twisted and bound at their point of attachment to the battery pack. By epoxying the pack to the end cap the whole battery pack turns with the end cap eliminating the wire twist and binding Here is a pic of what I am talking about if it will help



    BRILLANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

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      I noticed the same twisting, I'll try this.

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        Originally posted by stuntriderant View Post
        I soldered one wire to the top of the ring and one onto the negative spring just left of the wire running to the top. The light will work with the push button but just not my switch.
        Same exact problem here. What am I missing? Help!

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          Originally posted by Abraham View Post
          One modification I did on mine is where you weld the wires on the light, I removed the silver bar and cut it in half, and took a 1/4 in section out of it. Then just weld your wires on the top and bottom sections and reinstall. Its easier than fighting that spring, I think.
          Try this duck sausage

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            Originally posted by Duck Sausage View Post
            Same exact problem here. What am I missing? Help!

            I think you attached the wires to the wrong terminals on the switch.

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              Originally posted by Abraham View Post
              One modification I did on mine is where you weld the wires on the light, I removed the silver bar and cut it in half, and took a 1/4 in section out of it. Then just weld your wires on the top and bottom sections and reinstall. Its easier than fighting that spring, I think.
              Originally posted by Abraham View Post
              And you dont have to drill into the batterey pack. Just cut a notch for the wires to run right down the section that holds the silver bar.
              Did you solder both wires to the bar that you cut the section out of? One on each side? I like this idea but I'm confused, how did you eliminate soldering to the negative terminal?

              On Edit: I understand now. You interrupted the circuit, so when you push the switch that you installed it completes the circuit. Just like the "Big Foot" switch on my trolling motor in my boat. I like this idea, a helluva lot easier than fighting with that dang spring.
              Last edited by jared_bays; 06-30-2009, 04:25 PM.

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                Originally posted by Duck Sausage View Post
                Same exact problem here. What am I missing? Help!
                Make sure the light is turned on or the switch you installed won't work. If you used the same tact switch that I used you need to make sure both wires are soldered to the terminals on the same side.

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                  Thanks for the help guys. I'm still trying to figure it out.

                  My multimeter shows continuity at all soldered connections. Light works on and off, but not with the switch.

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                    Originally posted by Duck Sausage View Post
                    Thanks for the help guys. I'm still trying to figure it out.

                    My multimeter shows continuity at all soldered connections. Light works on and off, but not with the switch.
                    how tiny are your wires? need a good sized gauge wire.

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                      Originally posted by Duck Sausage View Post
                      Thanks for the help guys. I'm still trying to figure it out.

                      My multimeter shows continuity at all soldered connections. Light works on and off, but not with the switch.
                      Try ohming out your switch in both open and closed positions. You should read "OL" or "Open" when the switch is not pressed and less than 1 ohm with the switch pressed. If you put your leads arcoss the switch terminals withput depressing the switch and it reads less than 1 ohms, you've more than likely solder your leads to the same electrical point (i.e. "+" to "+" or "-" to "-"). If you check the voltage at the switch terminals without depressing the switch, you should read about 4.5VDC.

                      Originally posted by wes122984 View Post
                      how tiny are your wires? need a good sized gauge wire.
                      What epoxy did you use? I tried JB Weld and it didn't work. I was afraid that if I covered the whole inside of the cap, the threads would get messed up. So I just JB Welded the 5/16 bolt head to the end battery cartridge. I even cured @ about 115°F for a couple of hours after letting it sit overnight and if still wouldn't hold up.

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                        Originally posted by wes122984 View Post
                        how tiny are your wires? need a good sized gauge wire.
                        Even with the smaller ga wires, he should see the light, just not as bright. I had to switch to a larger ga wire becuz the smaller ga couldn't handle the current.

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                          I finally got it guys. I'm an idiot. I wasn't breaking the circuit...forgot to remove the dadgum silver bar...soon as I did, worked like a charm!

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                            To glue then end cap I used a product by Locktite called Extreme Repair All Temperature. And it seems to be holding well.

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                              Built mine today and it is awesome! All I have to do now is try to epoxy the endcap. I don't think the wires will hold up for too many battery changes.

                              The only thing that sucks is that I now have to make three more for my bother and huntin buddies

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                                Ok guys!! Use thicker wires that are harder to bend and shrink wrap them together all the way to the battery pack. Make sure you hollow out a pocket for the wire that runs to the top so that the pack will spin freely inside the flashlight tube. With the wire being shrunk together to the pack will make it not kink up simply because when you unscrew the top the wire is stiff enough that it catches on the cap and spins the loose fitting battery pack.

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