Thanks for the info greywolf. You talked me into doing the super glue first. How are you applying it? Super glue/ clear coat is all I have left on mine. I'll do a thread when done.
-
-
Just put a dot of superglue on the spot you want to start and start rubbing it in with small circles, and spread it out about the size of a nickel, You'll see it start to fill and smooth out.
Then you'll notice, it will start to get "Thick" or stiff, or start to drag, then drop another drop off to the side of that and blend that drop into the other and over lap the spots and blend then keep moving.
After 8-10 times you'll notice the tip of your finger getting hard, just peel it off and keep on going, till your done. then let it cure (10 hours) then do a light sanding with 400 grit if your going to use a spray finish.
When you put the super glue on, if it's thick enough you'll see the pore fill in and become smooth. if your going to leave the glue finish then steel wool it and remove the shine, it'll give it a great Satin look.
Just experiment with it and have fun. If your going to do a glue finish, I'd recommend light sand between coats. Let the wood tell you what it wants.
Factoid: Most custom shotguns have 40-50 coats of Tru-oil on the stock.Comment
-
Is tru oil similar to tung oil? When I think oil, I think greasy which another finish would not adhere to. Obviously that is not the case. I have used tung oil on a dining table I built.Comment
-
No, tung oil is for unsealed wood surfaces, it will soak in and dry and leaves a plastic like finish. IMHO doesn't hold up well on bows due the the vibration and shock of the limbs.
Tru-oil is a sealer also, as long as you keep putting a coat in the morning and one in the evening the chemical reaction will keep it grabbing on. But miss a day you have to let it dry for 3 days sand and start again with the process.
Tru-oil is in the gun refinishing isle of the sporting goods area, Small brown plastic bottle.
It is one of the many many ways to finish wood, someone like Bob Sarrel who has a bow production line, wouldn't use it for production bows due to the amount of "down time" and drying time.
He has a special sealer he uses on his bows. I can get it to Hawaii, But the hazardous material handling charge makes it not cost effective, cause I only do 2-3-4 bows a year, verses that many bows a day in his shop.
I do Tru-oil(or Super glue) on all the wood on my bows, then spray a finish on the glass.
Stick with Tru-Oil you'll be happy you did.Comment
-
I were a rubber glove when I put on my super glue. The cheap medical gloves that you can get at most stores works good for me.Originally posted by LeanMachine View PostComment
-
-
That's o cool. I wish I had time to take on another project :-)Comment
-
Whenever I get superglue (cyanoacrylate) on my fingers during a project it bonds to my skin and I have to use acetone or almost sand it off. What kind are you using that will peel off? Or maybe it's just my skin.
More important, great project and advise/ information coming in from others.
I didn't see anywhere if you were specially reinforcing the tips to be able to shoot a fastflight material string, or not. My understanding is if the tips are not reinforced, fastflight may (or will) cause the tips to delaminate.Comment
-
Bill
Picture #103 is the start of the Tip over lay process.
I never had superglue stick so bad I couldn't get it off, I use the pad of my index finger, so I can feel the glue and when it starts to go off, then put another drop and keep on going, There is a point you can feel the glue still be able to smooth it's self out and not run. that's when ya do another drop..
Just don't put two body parts together that have super glue on them you'll be fine...Comment
-
I've used Superglue a bunch to seal oily woods in the Rosewood family such as Cocobolo and Bocote. I beat my head against the wall trying to get Helmsman Spar Urethane or Polyurethane to dry on those woods before I learned the Superglue trick. On wood thats not oily I use TruOil topped with Spar Satin on top. Your a brave man using your finger to apply Superglue. If I tried that I would be stuck to everything in my shop!
The last bow I built had Bolivian Rosewood in the riser and for the life of me, I couldn't get the finish to dry, even with the superglue trick. I might have burned through the superglue in some spots while trying to smooth it out. I broke down and ordered the Thunderbird. It's expensive but works like a charm.Comment
-
Great buildComment
-
Dang.... I just got caught up and I'm getting the itch again. Time to start putting a few dollars to the side.
Nice job MattComment
-
Thank you all for the advise and compliments! I have been super busy with life things and have not been able to do much on the bow. Perhaps I can make it out to the shop this evening. Please keep watching I'm not done yet!Comment
-
Sorry, I didn't get in the shop yesterday and working today....I have plans for shop time tomm. I like the idea of giving the bows I build a name(yes, I'm implying I'm going to build more) so, throw out some name ideas. I want it to be something that relates to this being my first bow build, and my wife says no girl names. Here are some ideas I have: 1st attempt, first try, #1, first one, even thought about Genesis?Comment
-
OK! I finally made it back in the shop! I was thinking the bow was a little heavier than I wanted so I bought a better scale and remeasured it.The first time I was using a cheap spring type scale this time I used a good digital scale.
Draw weight ended up being 55.4@28" and my other bows are 56@28". So, I thought I'd shoot it a few more times to decide if I was satisfied. I think I'm happy with it! Two different sets of arrows at 15 yards and they are all hitting straight and I can't see any erratic arrow flight.
So, back in the shop and final hand sanding before clear coats. Like my fancy custom sanding tools?
Comment
Comment