Finally built me one.
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[ATTACH]287168[/ATTACH]Comment
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Nice. It's for sure strongComment
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I didn't realize how bad those pictures are, I'll try to get better ones tomorrow before it goes to the lease.
I could put one more gusset on it and a snatch block and it'd lift as much as that 1/4" wall tubing would hold at the receiver.
I intend to find out how much it'll lift as is though.
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Game hoist
Keep in mind these are qute often used for more than raising deer or hogs into a truck. They make a great extra pair of hand.
bholt
bhotdoors.netComment
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About to build one quite a bit different than the normal approach and had a few questions...
1st of all, why is the pivot feature so necessary? Many claim you need to load the game in the bed of the truck but what is wrong with leaving it hoisted while driving back to camp if you could hold it steady against the lift?
2nd, if it is that necessary to load in the bed is it possible without pivoting?
3rd, if we have a dedicated ranch vehicle how portable would the hoist need to be? One solid piece, multiple small sections?
4th, we are going to be using an electric winch, can those cheap harbor freight style winches take the elements?
Trying to design one that will take full advantage of the 2000# winch.Comment
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black being 2" square, blue being 1.5" square.Comment
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1. It's one thing to hoist a certain amount of weight up there, it's quite another to have it bouncing around up there on rough ranch roads. Not that it wouldn't do it, but anything with a rack would be in jeopardy with all the leverage that comes with being up that high. I wouldn't reccomend it with ANY buck. You could theoreticaly hold it steady enough to the lift to keep it from moving, but that's about 4 times more effort than just loading it into the bed.Originally posted by scott123456789 View Post
2. Sure it's possible. But why not do it the hard way once, so you can do it the easy way from now on?
I want it to be easy to load stuff in truck because my dad goes to the lease by himself quite a bit now days and his knees won't let him load a large buck by himself without a bunch of trouble. Now it's a snap, and it took an hour of extra work.....
3. If you have a dedicated ranch vehicle, I wouldn't want it in the receiver at all. look through the 1st page of this thread at the one mounted up in the bed on one side. Then it's out of the way of loading other things, and your receiver is open to pull trailers or whatever.
4 Harbor freigt stuff sucks for the most part, and I don't think any of those little winches will lift and hold 2,000lbs, but there may be some. Either way there is no use trying to hang 2klbs off the back of anything short of a 1 ton......and the rig wouldn't handle it anyway. The cable/rigging/material would have to be so heavy you couldn't lift it.Comment
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Its a loaner vehicle so I can't weld anything to the truck, but it is living out at the farm till a buddy gets back from overseas.
If the pivot factor is that important where should I encorporate steel rod in the design above to allow for pivoting. Trying to stay with only 10 feet of 2" square and I guess 10 feet of the 1.5 but may consider using round tube.Comment
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I would say
3/16" = 300 lbs
1/4" = 600 lbsComment
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I was hoping to go much larger due to running the main pipe to the ground. I thought resting on the main piece coming off of the receiver was where much of the strength was lost.Comment
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You are correct on that.Originally posted by scott123456789 View Post
What exactly are you planning to lift?
I overbuilt mine for critters with the intent of being able to pick up my FIL's Miller Bobcat, and I think it will. It sounds like you are looking to pluck hippos out of the marsh.
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Buddy about pulled his jeep over with a big auodad and bent the heck out of his lift system but it was built out of maybe 11ga tubing. We use a plastic 55 gallon drum as a water tank so being able to lift that out of the truck and set it on the ground next to our water tank to refill would be great.
If I have a 2000# winch... I mean. See then I've also got the double pulley snatch block capability so in reality I should be able to lift 4000 no problem if the truck isn't pulled apart in the porcess.
I didn't picture it very well but the 1.5" tube will remain further into the 2" tube so it keeps some of the strength.
Still trying to decide exactly how to pivot without buying a real expensive bearing assembly and keeping some strength. Figure I would have to pivot with the 1.5" square tube but don't know at what point would be the best to use. Perhaps in the bottom and just round a round pipe at the bottom.Comment
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A 55 gallon drum full of water weighs about 475lbs.
You aren't going to pivot anything with 1000lbs on it.....if you could you'd need a hoist to load your hoist, it would be so heavy. Like the whole thing made of 2", 3/16" wall tubing, with 1' 1/2" inside the whole thing to get close to what you are talking about. And if you did, you're still going to break something likely as not.
You need a tractor with a front-end loader!Comment
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I've got a front end loader out there but its a longer walk from camp to the farm house so trying to have soemthing with me in the truck.
Trying to keep all of the pieces small enough they can stay in the bed of the truck, Not looking to completely double square tube as I want to be able to extend to get more height if needed. But if I had some crazy heavy lifting I could leave it low and doubled.
It would have more than is pictured in my drawing as that would just be asking to fall over, but probably only 2'.
Still trying to workout the dimensions. Then at the moment stuck between solid rod or just a round pipe that will fit in the 1.5" square and serve as the pivot point.
Not sure how to do that much nicer without scraping the idea of resting it on the ground.Comment
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