I need a new UTV trailer…what features?

[TX03RUBI]

A long arm kit is about the only way to not be able to fit a Ranger on a 70” wide trailer.

[Quackerbox]

I like these specs. But I’d go wider in case you need to haul a jeep or car. That’s my one complaint about my 16’ tandem axle. I think mine is 72-74”.

My ranger is nothing special and I don't even think it would fit in 71 inches. 77 bare minimum, 83 atleast. If you can't get a 83 wide trailer down a road you don't need to be driving. That's smaller than most 3/4 ton trucks.

Yes sir.

Even the 12 footer I had was 83. If you're hauling it, might as well be wide as you can get it. My current 14 is 83 wide with 4 foot removal sides on the front. I carry a ranger and a full size 4wheeler on it often.

I wanted a ramp but the builder wouldn't do it. The only time I've wanted it was loading my zero turn

[twistedmidnite]

Ok, so I went and measured my ranger. She's roughly 65 inches. Yea it'll fit on 71 wide but why? .

[Big pig]

You're on the right track. What UTV?

Get a drive on tire jack to carry with you. Basically a ramp that makes it simple to change a flat.

+1.

I like my folding gate. Most of the time in the pasture it’s off

D Rings for sure.

[Big pig]

Double post

[TX03RUBI]

Ok, so I went and measured my ranger. She's roughly 65 inches. Yea it'll fit on 71 wide but why? .

My UTV trailer gets drug around the lease behind the Can Am a lot to fill feeders, and there’s several places a wider trailer won’t fit between trees. 1-2” might not be a deal breaker, but 6+ is.

[Texans42]

Ok, so I went and measured my ranger. She's roughly 65 inches. Yea it'll fit on 71 wide but why? .

same reason a catch trailer is same width as Truck. Less things to hang it on in pasture or narrow roads. If you just drive down highway and never take it off pavement doesnt matter. I take my mule pro hunting and trail riding all over the west, plus I use that trailer all over my ranch and leases.

[twistedmidnite]

Yall win, its almost time to cook crawfish and drink beer for Easter.

[sorryhunter]

You got all kinds of good help. My suggestion is to run tires that are way beyond the weight rating of the axles. Heavier tires don’t cost very much more, and that change will cut blowouts down to almost never. Almost because you will still ruin tires occasionally by running over junk.

[SaltwaterSlick]

This thread is a few days old, but thought I'd put my 2 cents in...
Tandem at least 16 feet and 80-83" wide. brakes on at least one axel. Bi-fold tailgate (AKA the Ranch King design), Bulldog hitch, "Rumber" deck with E-tracks and lots of D-ring E-track adapters along with tire straps (I'll never own another UTV trailer without them). Locking tongue mounted tool box for storage/tiedowns for E-Track system. Expanded metal in all openings on the side rail. I prefer square tubing top rail over pipe too (or at least heavy angle iron). If possible, match hubs to your main towing vehicle (provides potential for one more spare tire).


If I was going to start with a standard manufactured trailer, I'd start with a Ranch King trailer... Those guys know how to build a trailer. They're not cheap, but they are well built... wiring is all enclosed and I'd add the LED option on lighting.

[Dale Moser]

Cargo box on the toungue.

Have the front covered from deck height up to rail with some light plate steel, 14ga or so, so your truck tires don't sling mud and rocks on the trailer.

Mucho tie downs all down the side, including over the fenders.

I like tubing top rails better than pipe, but most people don't and are wrong.

As wide as legal.

Don't put a removeable rail up front, that weakens the structure of the trailer and loads up stress there.

My next one will have custom dry boxes aft, and integrated with, the fenders...with flush mount led brake/tail lights in the backs of them. The spare will mount to the front over the tongue.