Broadhead question

[forced-2-work]

Just my experience, and I think others will vouch for me. Broadhead and fletching orientation doesn’t matter. I just spin test and make sure they are spinning good and they will all fly the same.

Good to know. Thanks.

[forced-2-work]

At 50 yards that could be more human error then the bow . Where are they hitting at 25 ?

Hybrid is dead on and fixed blade is maybe 1-2 inches right

[manwitaplan]

Ignore all you want but you need to tune your bow. If the arrows are not flying true a mechanical may hit where you field points do but you can have major penetration issues

You may also get someone to critique your form and make sure you’re not torquing your bow. Quite a few things can affect flight

I know you already said you’re going to ignore it, but I’ll say it anyway. Your bow isn’t fully tuned. Paper doesn’t tell the tale. And moving your rest all over the place isn’t how it’s done either. Rest needs to be set at center shot and level to slightly nock high. From there, all your tuning needs to be done with yokes or shims. Only then will 1/16” to 1/32” horizontal adjustment be acceptable.

I’ll throw any broadhead on the market on the end of one of my shafts and it will land where my field points do. There’s just a lot more to it than most realize. Take it with a grain of salt, but it’s the truth.

I would read these post with great intent. This was my exact problem.


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[AntlersBoy]

Ran into this when I got to shooting faster bows with straight fletch. Your going to get all the tuning expert advice, which you already have. I say try a 3 degree fletch with some sort of your favorite expandable. If you feel confident in your tuning your fixed blade could be flighting, everything has got faster and lighter. I’ve never stood in a perfect shooting stance while shooting a deer out of stand I’ll take all the twist help I can get out of my fletching. All that said I do still bare shaft tune. I shoot GT velocity pro’s with hypodermic 100 grain right around 315-325 depending on what bow. Never had a problem


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[Burntorange Bowhunter]

Try turning the arrow on the nock in quarter turn increments. Works for my Muzzys.

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[forced-2-work]

To all the people with suggestions and advice I appreciate it. Did a little cam tuning today and that seemed to really straighten up the muzzy one fixed blade. The hybrid is hitting dead on at 50yds also. A friend let me try out a G5 deadmeat and that is dead on also. So as much as I hate to admit it.....guess it was a small tuning issue.

Now time to get some meat in the freezer!

[CastAndBlast]

why would you not want a well tuned bow?

This...

A tuned bow is more than just field point/broadhead contact. It directly affects energy and penetration as well as accuracy.

If you don't want to mess with tuning your bow, shoot any mechanical on the market.

[bphillips]

To all the people with suggestions and advice I appreciate it. Did a little cam tuning today and that seemed to really straighten up the muzzy one fixed blade. The hybrid is hitting dead on at 50yds also. A friend let me try out a G5 deadmeat and that is dead on also. So as much as I hate to admit it.....guess it was a small tuning issue.

Now time to get some meat in the freezer!

That’s good news

[Johnfajitas]

It looks like you worked it out. I had trouble with fixed blades when I first used them, and also found out it was a tuning issue after taking the setup to a better shop. I am running some GrizzlyStik Samurai Overkill’s this year. They are single bevel, 150 gr and fly true. After reading all of the Dr. Ashby report stuff, I am going back to fixed blades.


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