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Broadhead question

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    #31
    Originally posted by Sleepy View Post
    I know you already said you’re going to ignore it, but I’ll say it anyway. Your bow isn’t fully tuned. Paper doesn’t tell the tale. And moving your rest all over the place isn’t how it’s done either. Rest needs to be set at center shot and level to slightly nock high. From there, all your tuning needs to be done with yokes or shims. Only then will 1/16” to 1/32” horizontal adjustment be acceptable.

    I’ll throw any broadhead on the market on the end of one of my shafts and it will land where my field points do. There’s just a lot more to it than most realize. Take it with a grain of salt, but it’s the truth.
    This 100% ^

    If you don't get your arrow launching perfectly straight you are loosing a lot of energy downrange. An arrow launched out of a bow that is out of tune or an arrow that is improperly spined will hit the target at some degree of an angle rather than straight on. This leads to a great loss of energy and also can cause strange things to happen on impact.

    I can move a bareshaft all over the target by adjusting the yokes or shims. What you are correcting is horizontal nock travel.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Arrowsmith View Post
      This 100% ^

      If you don't get your arrow launching perfectly straight you are loosing a lot of energy downrange. An arrow launched out of a bow that is out of tune or an arrow that is improperly spined will hit the target at some degree of an angle rather than straight on. This leads to a great loss of energy and also can cause strange things to happen on impact.

      I can move a bareshaft all over the target by adjusting the yokes or shims. What you are correcting is horizontal nock travel.

      buuuuut, that's not the easy answer! Can't you just throw money at it and make it go away?

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        #33
        One more for Ramcat Nation

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          #34
          why would you not want a well tuned bow?

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            #35
            Innerloc Falcons are the best kept secret.

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              #36
              shave off the fletching from an arrow. you can paper tune or skip all that and shoot the target. start at 10 yards and adjust your rest, nock height, cam timing, etc until you can shoot out to 50 without fletching. you are now tuned. get your arrow to fly straight without fletching.....

              I shoot big fixed blades and with no wind can hit the bullseye at 50 with no fletching....chunking spears
              Last edited by Tom; 09-11-2020, 09:41 AM.

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                #37
                I have found that Slick Tricks fly very good. I prefer the Magnums because they seem to fly as good as the regulars with a bigger cut. (They will blow a hole through an animal that looks like a 12 gauge slug!)

                One thing I've learned about broadheads over the years though - Certain heads fly better with certain arrows. I think it's a good idea to have 2-4 broadheads in your box and try them separately with each arrow until you find the right match. My 2 goto heads are ST Magnums and Muzzy MX3's. I haven't found an arrow yet that neither will not allow me to shot identical with my field points.

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                  #38
                  I’m tuning the dreaded 3 blade 100 grain muzzy at the moment. The two arrows furthest to the left are Broadheads. Snuff can sized group at 30 yards. I don’t consider that to be bad considering I haven’t shot in months.

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                    #39
                    ^shooting at the 1 inch square


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by bboswell View Post
                      buuuuut, that's not the easy answer! Can't you just throw money at it and make it go away?


                      No. Money won't fix it.

                      And sadly enough a lot of bow shop techs don't know how to fix it either.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by mkguthrie View Post
                        Look into bareshaft tuning. This will get you better results with field tips and fixed blade broadheads hitting the same spot.
                        This.......

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Arrowsmith View Post


                          No. Money won't fix it.

                          And sadly enough a lot of bow shop techs don't know how to fix it either.
                          I have run into this problem multiple times this year. Local bow shop guy did terrible work and I have ordered new strings and been fixing all his errors. I will try 2 things, 1st bare tuning the bow just to see where we are at and 2, I will try to get the fixed broadheads blades to match up inl ine with my fetchings also. I wont get to this stuff till next week but will keep yall posted

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                            #43
                            Tuning.... just bump your rest to the left a hair and see how it does. but Magnus black hornet and stingers have flown really well for me Even when the bow wasn’t tuned

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                              #44
                              At 50 yards that could be more human error then the bow . Where are they hitting at 25 ?

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by forced-2-work View Post
                                I have run into this problem multiple times this year. Local bow shop guy did terrible work and I have ordered new strings and been fixing all his errors. I will try 2 things, 1st bare tuning the bow just to see where we are at and 2, I will try to get the fixed broadheads blades to match up inl ine with my fetchings also. I wont get to this stuff till next week but will keep yall posted

                                Just my experience, and I think others will vouch for me. Broadhead and fletching orientation doesn’t matter. I just spin test and make sure they are spinning good and they will all fly the same.

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