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Ranch pipe fencing, suggestions, advice

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    #16
    Originally posted by Draco View Post
    Here's what you need to know. Out of the pipe type fences, the top rail with 6" square panels are the cheapest way to go. With posts 10' apart every thing works out well for the best look. You can almost always cut the bells off the ends for a cleaner look and the welds will be right on top of your posts. With the welds on top of the posts, you don't see the splices at little grade changes or direction changes. The panels are available in 20' lengths so you can have their splices be on the posts and no one can even see where they went together. This makes a very neat fence with clean lines, will basically last a life time and is not only cow proof but also dog proof.
    Panels are much more expensive compared to wire. Plus you need to run a bottom pipe to attach the panel to in most cases.

    But I do think it looks better than wire.
    Last edited by Arrowthreat; 04-14-2020, 07:21 AM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by BlackoutRam2500 View Post
      Sack crete is $3 per bag and with holes every 8 feet you are looking at .40 per LF for that.
      Can't you just use a post driver and only use concrete in the corners?

      I've asked in other pipe fence thread and never gotten an answer.

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        #18
        Originally posted by GA Bowhunter View Post
        Can't you just use a post driver and only use concrete in the corners?

        I've asked in other pipe fence thread and never gotten an answer.
        Yes. I drive my corner post 5' in the ground, or use my auger and concrete 3'. All my other post i'm driving 3' with my hammer. Plenty stout.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Arrowthreat View Post
          Yes. I drive my corner post 5' in the ground, or use my auger and concrete 3'. All my other post i'm driving 3' with my hammer. Plenty stout.
          Thanks!

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            #20
            Originally posted by GA Bowhunter View Post
            Can't you just use a post driver and only use concrete in the corners?



            I've asked in other pipe fence thread and never gotten an answer.
            Yes, you sure could do it that way.

            I will be using a gas auger though.

            Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

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              #21
              I wished I could drive posts in....we have about 6 to 10 inches of soil..then its like concrete. So we resort to a big hilti breaker to knock a 24 inch hole and backfill with concrete..post is there forever..

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                #22
                Originally posted by Tuffbroadhead View Post
                I wished I could drive posts in....we have about 6 to 10 inches of soil..then its like concrete. So we resort to a big hilti breaker to knock a 24 inch hole and backfill with concrete..post is there forever..
                They make some drivers that I promise will drive into that. My danhuser T3 won't, it's only good for soft soil and sand. Check out the Montana post driver. There's videos of guys driving 2 7/8 in rock. Basically use it like a jackhammer. Pretty sweet.

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                  #23
                  I have the opposite problem, my soil is soft clay. You can push a fence over with little effort.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Chunky View Post
                    I have the opposite problem, my soil is soft clay. You can push a fence over with little effort.
                    IMO we have the same issue and whatever you do use something thats close enough together cows cant stick there head through it. U will be amazed how much longer they last. Neighbor did a fence that was 2-7/8 with 60" top rail then ran the horse wire down it. It looks pretty dang sharp. Works great for cows because they cant stick there head through it.

                    I dont know why people dont use more pipe. Im in east texas so wood posts dont last long. It amazes me the labor people will put into a barbwire wood post fence. Why in the world they dont build pipe corners is beyond me. 2-3 years later there post have started to rot or twist and pull out of the ground.

                    We use pipe for everything. All of our corners are 4-1/2" or 6-5/8" posts with 2-3/8 angled down braces. We use 42 and 49" sta-tite wire on all of our cow pastures.

                    I use 42" with Barb wire on top on perimeter fences etc that dont get crowded. On catch pens or fences that get cows pushed along them alot they are all 49" wire with barb on top. I also dont buy economy gates anymore unless its a fence in the woods somewhere that doesnt get used much. If it gets opened regularly or has the potential for a cow to push on it i only use bull gates.

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                      #25
                      Post drivers are ok but are hard to square up. I hate an un level post. We only drive our 2-3/8 line posts on barb wire or sta-tite fences.
                      We concrete all corners and gate posts, I also weld stingers in the ground on all gates the direction the gate is closed and the direction the gate is likely to stay open the most. I usually weld the stinger out 18-24" roughly. If its a Rough Stock gate or something heavier i may go out 3-4ft.

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                        #26
                        I built fence last year and the driver had a pilot you drove in first to 2'. A cylinder picked it back up. Then you drove your post and every one was perfectly straight. The man that owned it said he could drive a telephone pole post in dirt if he used the pilot first. It was the best I've seen. I think it's made in Edna or Victoria.

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                          #27
                          We use five-pipe fence for pastures abutting roadsides where livestock is held. This is mainly to contain the interest of the bulls in a neighboring herd on the other side of the road. Loose livestock on roadways is a hazard for both animals and humans.

                          We use T-posts and 5-strand barbed wire on fencing for all internal pastures with pipe h-braces every 100’ feet or so and piping for all corners and hanging gates.

                          And I don’t care what anyone says, we spend far more time mending b-wire fences than we ever spend painting pipe fences. A b-wire fence that’s been compromised or damaged must be repaired immediately, often interrupting the work flow of other time-sensitive projects (bailing, fertilizing, weed control). Painting pipe fencing can be planned for periods of low productivity.

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                            #28
                            "Painting Pipe fencing" Thats what I have teenager for, lol ! But he is also pretty good at building 6 strand, he did it all summer on the Johnson Ranch.

                            I'm lazy and will be spraying a pen today...

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Tuffbroadhead View Post
                              "Painting Pipe fencing" Thats what I have teenager for, lol ! But he is also pretty good at building 6 strand, he did it all summer on the Johnson Ranch.

                              I'm lazy and will be spraying a pen today...
                              Teenagers grow up and leave, but that fence will still be there. I prefer to leave natural and not paint. Some I had to grind clean and paint due to contract, but still rusted thru after a couple years. Paint them a color close to rust.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by brianl View Post
                                teenagers grow up and leave, but that fence will still be there. I prefer to leave natural and not paint. Some i had to grind clean and paint due to contract, but still rusted thru after a couple years. Paint them a color close to rust.
                                RED PRIMER ! :d

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