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Boat transom replacement help

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    #76
    Originally posted by BowSlayer View Post
    Here's a question for someone that might know... When I look down into the hollowed out transom there are no stringers showing. I can't see any sign of where any stringers tie into the transom. Is it possible that there is fiberglass between the stringer and transom so that they are separate?
    There should be some form of tie between the transom and stringers. Look in the bilge for clues. The stringers may butt up against the transom. There could also be knee braces from the transom to the stringers (at least the two center-most stringers). If the stringers butt up against the transom they may be hard to see. There could possibly be a layer of glass between the transom face and the end of the stringer as you suspect. Maybe do some research on BassBoatCentral to see if anyone has done a top cap removal on a similar hull design. Then you'd get a clear idea of what you're dealing with.

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      #77
      There are no stringers visible and none protruding into the transom. The transom is just fiberglass all the way on both sides if that makes sense. No way I’m tearing into the stringers just to check on them so I’m moving forward with the pour.

      I got the motor well drains installed. I wanted to do those first since they are the easiest to access. Turns out that duct tape is the perfect width for the transom so I wrapped both drain tubes with duct tape (sticky side out) before installing them. They should be easily removed in the future if needed. I also sealed with 3m 4200 before crimping them.





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        #78
        New livewell pumps and all new through hull fittings. I believe everything is sealed up and ready to pour.

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          #79
          My first boat was an 83 Turdcraft. They were known for transom issues. I think it cost my insurance company $2500 to have mine replaced.

          Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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            #80
            I wish I had some pictures now but my boat was very close to what you are working on. After pouring I added a couple braces inside where the bilge pump goes. There is a little shelf on each side of the bilge area and I just ran a brace from each one up to the transom then fiberglassed it. My understanding was that the new transom will be more stiff than the original wood and will break something if you dont do that.

            You are going to be happy with the end product. I know I was.

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              #81
              Got the pour funnel constructed. Only used the finest materials. 1 Amazon Prime box and Gorilla tape. Might pour it tomorrow morning. This funnel will be for rent if anyone needs it after I’m finished.





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                #82
                In for results and on the water pics, be sure to keep a stick or long piece or rebar on hand in case pour is thicker than expected, think the champion guy had to stir as he poured to keep from getting air pockets trapped at the bottom of the transom.
                Last edited by bossbowman; 07-18-2019, 09:25 PM.

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                  #83
                  Spray the inside of your funnel with some spray paint or something that will keep it from soaking up too much moisture.

                  Good luck!

                  Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

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                    #84
                    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=161881

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                      #85
                      That's awesome.

                      Is it ok to mix and pour 1 gallon at a time or do I need to pour it all at once? I'm worried about 5 gallons not being enough and having to order more after I've already poured part of it.

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                        #86
                        Probably be a better question to ask on the champion link above, I would think you want to do it all at once, can you pour cement after part of it has dried IDK?

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                          #87
                          Dimension of the cavity (roughly).
                          L X W X H =???
                          ???÷231= number of Gallons.

                          Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

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                            #88
                            Originally posted by Hoggslayer View Post
                            Dimension of the cavity (roughly).
                            L X W X H =???
                            ???÷231= number of Gallons.

                            Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk


                            Should have barely enough according to that.

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                              #89
                              I don't know anything about this stuff but with cement,if you want to pour fresh onto something already set you have to dowel it in.Idont know if you can do that or not with this stuff. I would order an extra gallon to ensure I didn't have that headache.

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                                #90
                                Originally posted by cashcropper View Post
                                I don't know anything about this stuff but with cement,if you want to pour fresh onto something already set you have to dowel it in.Idont know if you can do that or not with this stuff. I would order an extra gallon to ensure I didn't have that headache.
                                Probably a good call, once it seaps in to all the nooks and crannies I bet it takes just under 6 gallons just like the champion did. That resin coal on the inside before the pour seems like a good idea too

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