Originally posted by BowSlayer
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Boat transom replacement help
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There are no stringers visible and none protruding into the transom. The transom is just fiberglass all the way on both sides if that makes sense. No way I’m tearing into the stringers just to check on them so I’m moving forward with the pour.
I got the motor well drains installed. I wanted to do those first since they are the easiest to access. Turns out that duct tape is the perfect width for the transom so I wrapped both drain tubes with duct tape (sticky side out) before installing them. They should be easily removed in the future if needed. I also sealed with 3m 4200 before crimping them.
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I wish I had some pictures now but my boat was very close to what you are working on. After pouring I added a couple braces inside where the bilge pump goes. There is a little shelf on each side of the bilge area and I just ran a brace from each one up to the transom then fiberglassed it. My understanding was that the new transom will be more stiff than the original wood and will break something if you dont do that.
You are going to be happy with the end product. I know I was.
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In for results and on the water pics, be sure to keep a stick or long piece or rebar on hand in case pour is thicker than expected, think the champion guy had to stir as he poured to keep from getting air pockets trapped at the bottom of the transom.Last edited by bossbowman; 07-18-2019, 09:25 PM.
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Originally posted by Marooned View Post
Is it ok to mix and pour 1 gallon at a time or do I need to pour it all at once? I'm worried about 5 gallons not being enough and having to order more after I've already poured part of it.
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Originally posted by cashcropper View PostI don't know anything about this stuff but with cement,if you want to pour fresh onto something already set you have to dowel it in.Idont know if you can do that or not with this stuff. I would order an extra gallon to ensure I didn't have that headache.
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