I have been looking at Waterstones, but a guy at work told me about the scary sharp system. Looks sensible to me, but does anyone use sandpaper for knife sharpening with good results? what do you use as a backer and how to attach it? I have a lansky system, and a worksharp will never touch my knives. I miss sitting at my workbench with a stone and sharpening a knife.
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Get a paper wheel system. I have one and still use a worksharp system. Workshop is just sandpaper -
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Primarily heat. I don't buy super expensive knives, but don't carry a $12 Mora either even though I probably should.Originally posted by rferg84 View PostComment
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I started using the scary sharp system on my woodcarving knives/tools. It is very popular method with woodworkers. It worked so well I use it for other knives and broadheahs. You use the wet/dry sandpaper used in body shops. I glue it in strips to an old poly cutting board. (Some use glass) I use 4 grits ending with 1000 then polish on a paper wheel.Comment
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I bought a WorkSharp just to see what all the fuss was about. Not worth it. Too much heat and does not give the knives a sharp/smooth edge. I'll stick with my diamond stones.Comment
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You're missing out not using a worksharp. Nothing is faster for getting a knife razor sharp. I've been using one for 4-5 years now. Use it on all my fillet knifes, kitchen knives and skinning knives. Never had any kind of issue.Comment
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Wow. This has been completely opposite of my experience. The blades are on the wheel for 1-2 seconds per pull. I cannot fathom how that could cause excess heat. 10 on the green (1st time knife only), 10 on the red, 10 on the purple and a couple of passes on a leather strop and my knives are shaving sharp. I sharpen my friends knives too. Worksharps are game changers in my opinion. And I do have some expensive knives courtesy of Tim aka Chopsknives. I sharpen them when I work up the nerve to get them dirty!Originally posted by PYBUCK View Post
Make me a deal and I will buy that no good Worksharp off your hands!Comment
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Worksharp works well once you know how to use them without rounding off the blade point or creating hollows at the ricasso. I sometimes use one as a file sander for shaping handles. Best use I have found for mine.
I sharpen the knives I make on a 2x72 belt grinder and 8"x1" hard felt buffing wheel.
The belts are nothing more than a continuous piece of sandpaper on a cloth backing.
FYI, for some things like slicing a tomato, a slightly toothy edge will work best.
My water stones haven't seen a blade in a long long time. They work well but way too slow for my patience level. I can do in 5 minutes on my belt grinder what it would take me all day to do on water stones and with a lot less mess.Last edited by muzzlebrake; 12-17-2018, 12:36 PM.Comment
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PY. I’ll send you a 100% usable $20 bill for that worthless Worksharp.Comment
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Like anything...Originally posted by muzzlebrake View Post
I don't understand the heat comments at all. Are you folks reading the instructions?Comment
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I never heard of heat problems with a WS either. Must be some poor metal if it over heats that quick. Besides the WS doesn't run fast enough FPM on the belts to get hot.Originally posted by meltingfeather View Post
The ceramic 80, 120 and 220 grit belts I get from Supergrit would probably run a lot cooler on metal but I've never tried them on it. These little ceramic belts last forever on wood.Comment
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What about the aspect of the Worksharp where the abrasive moves into the cutting edge on one side of the blade, and away from it on the other? I don't know that it hurts anything, but it always seemed wrong to me...not sure why.Comment
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Once an edge has been put on a knife with a worksharp I’ve found that it only takes 2-3 swipes with the medium and 3-5 with the fine to get it back to shaving sharp. Never damaged a blade with my worksharp.
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Ive always heard great things about the worksharp. I may need to do a little more research before investing.Comment
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