Elk Arrow Setup: How Slow is TOO Slow?

[Throwin Darts]

My elk setup was 520 grain arrow, 2007 Mathews Drenalin, 62 lbs, 29 inch draw. I'm sure my arrows were slower than yours. My 50 yard pin bottomed out the sight window. Worked like a charm.

You don't want to be featherweight arrows at these beasts!

[Michael]

I pulled the insert and removed the weight this morning, and then went back to B2B. Tim put a couple of twists in the string, which required a couple added to the cables to get back to ATA spec. I was around 63# draw before and 65# after with limbs maxed out. I'm ok with that, just not sure why I wouldn't get at least close to 70# at factory spec.

Regardless, I tested the results of the arrow without the insert weight and came up with 345 gr with no tip, 445@100 and 470@125.

The 470 gr arrow yielded 259 fps on multiple shots. The 445 gr arrow was around 267-269.

Tim is ordering new string/cable (which I wanted to do anyway to have the old ones as backup) and will retune the setup once they are installed, but I like the ~470@260@65 Pierce 300 combination as long as I can get the groups to fall in line, which I don't think will be an issue.

I'll report back when new strings are installed.

[enewman]

I pulled the insert and removed the weight this morning, and then went back to B2B. Tim put a couple of twists in the string, which required a couple added to the cables to get back to ATA spec. I was around 63# draw before and 65# after with limbs maxed out. I'm ok with that, just not sure why I wouldn't get at least close to 70# at factory spec.

Regardless, I tested the results of the arrow without the insert weight and came up with 345 gr with no tip, 445@100 and 470@125.

The 470 gr arrow yielded 259 fps on multiple shots. The 445 gr arrow was around 267-269.

Tim is ordering new string/cable (which I wanted to do anyway to have the old ones as backup) and will retune the setup once they are installed, but I like the ~470@260@65 Pierce 300 combination as long as I can get the groups to fall in line, which I don't think will be an issue.

I'll report back when new strings are installed.

If your bow is a 70 lb and your only getting 65 lbs something is out. A 70 lb bow should be around 69 to 73 lbs when maxed. Maybe a little more

[JTeLarkin08]

Elk Arrow Setup: How Slow is TOO Slow?

I pulled the insert and removed the weight this morning, and then went back to B2B. Tim put a couple of twists in the string, which required a couple added to the cables to get back to ATA spec. I was around 63# draw before and 65# after with limbs maxed out.[emoji782] I'm ok with that, just not sure why I wouldn't get at least close to 70# at factory spec.



Regardless, I tested the results of the arrow without the insert weight and came up with 345 gr with no tip, 445@100 and 470@125.



The 470 gr arrow yielded 259 fps on multiple shots. The 445 gr arrow was around 267-269.



Tim is ordering new string/cable (which I wanted to do anyway to have the old ones as backup) and will retune the setup once they are installed, but I like the ~470@260@65 Pierce 300 combination as long as I can get the groups to fall in line, which I don't think will be an issue.



I'll report back when new strings are installed.

Cables affect draw weight more than the string. So get your weight where it needs to be with the cables. Then use the string to get the dl you want/ get the bow back in spec.

Throw like 4 more twist in the cables


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[muddyfuzzy]

adding twists to the string actually decreases peak weight, as JT pointed out the cables are what needs to be worked. either way I wouldn't do anything until the bow is making weight, normally a 70# rig will slide in slightly north of that in most cases around 71-72#'s. once the bow is sorted then I would worry about the arrows. as far as gross weight goes anything in the 440-475 grain range is plenty for Elk with a good broadhead, will keep the speed up.

[Michael]

Cables affect draw weight more than the string. So get your weight where it needs to be with the cables. Then use the string to get the dl you want/ get the bow back in spec.

Throw like 4 more twist in the cables


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Ok thanks. I won't be able to work in it anymore until next week because of a work trip. It probably doesn't make sense to make any changes until the new string/cables are on, anyway, but that may still help get it closer.




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[Michael]

adding twists to the string actually decreases peak weight, as JT pointed out the cables are what needs to be worked. either way I wouldn't do anything until the bow is making weight, normally a 70# rig will slide in slightly north of that in most cases around 71-72#'s. once the bow is sorted then I would worry about the arrows. as far as gross weight goes anything in the 440-475 grain range is plenty for Elk with a good broadhead, will keep the speed up.

I agree! But there's not much cost to plot some intermediate numbers along the way until I get there (with new strings).


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[Michael]

I agree! But there's not much cost to plot some intermediate numbers along the way until I get there (with new strings) and it gives a pretty good indicator of what I might expect when I get there.


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[Michael]

Arrow choice is not a field repair.

Au contraire! If I get to the trailhead and find all my arrows got crushed on the trip, so I retreat to the nearest Wally World and all they have is 30" 340s and 400s, arrow selection quickly becomes a "field repair" and knowing how to make necessary adjustments to my bow to shoot them would come in handy.


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[muddyfuzzy]

I agree! But there's not much cost to plot some intermediate numbers along the way until I get there (with new strings).


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this is true but just keep in mind that 5-7 lbs of draw weight not only buys you additional speed but more importantly has a pretty dramatic effect on dynamic spine reactions. sounds like you are on the right track towards getting the most out of the setup, good luck.

[donpablo]

Tagged

Another T-Rex here. Tagging this for later (like when I finally draw for elk).

[Michael]

I'll definitely keep an eye on that but after removing 65 gr. from the front I suspect I'm likely a little on the stiff side at 65#, in which case the extra #s could get me closer to the sweet spot. I appreciate the input from you guys that spend a lot more time tinkering with this than I do!


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[Mudslinger]

Au contraire! If I get to the trailhead and find all my arrows got crushed on the trip, so I retreat to the nearest Wally World and all they have is 30" 340s and 400s, arrow selection quickly becomes a "field repair" and knowing how to make necessary adjustments to my bow to shoot them would come in handy.


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If this happens, better have a great expandable BH as backup! Most will fly without MAJOR adjustments, as will the Ramcats I shoot. I know after shooting them from a very underspined set up for a couple of years withy no problems.

This would be like guys heading to the field without shooting their BH's to see if they flew the same as their FP's. Had this happen more than once when guys upgraded from and old Whitetail II to a new bow that was WAY faster and could not understand that their BH's did not fly the same as their FP's when the did out of the Whitetail II at less than 200 fps when they are now shooting over 240 FPS, when they were preached to on shooting BH's before they hunted. Way to many did this in my 11 years as an Archery Shop owner and listening to their sob stories on the animals they missed because nothing flew the same, but it was always my fault until I told them I would drive to where they were hunting and get their BH's and FP's flying the same for no extra charge!

[Michael]

If this happens, better have a great expandable BH as backup! Most will fly without MAJOR adjustments, as will the Ramcats I shoot. I know after shooting them from a very underspined set up for a couple of years withy no problems.

This would be like guys heading to the field without shooting their BH's to see if they flew the same as their FP's. Had this happen more than once when guys upgraded from and old Whitetail II to a new bow that was WAY faster and could not understand that their BH's did not fly the same as their FP's when the did out of the Whitetail II at less than 200 fps when they are now shooting over 240 FPS, when they were preached to on shooting BH's before they hunted. Way to many did this in my 11 years as an Archery Shop owner and listening to their sob stories on the animals they missed because nothing flew the same, but it was always my fault until I told them I would drive to where they were hunting and get their BH's and FP's flying the same for no extra charge!

I understand where you're coming from and it certainly wouldn't be the ideal setup, but in a pinch most of us could make it work depending on how much time and effort (and $) you might want to throw at it.

Walmart sells Allen wrenches, lighter weight broadheads, parchment paper and often broahead targets. If you really wanted to get fancy, they also sell a Dremel tool, culinary torch, hot melt glue, weedeater line, aquarium hoses, etc. to change the dynamics of the arrow.

Half a day at most to get it sufficiently tuned with tight groups and a lethal setup.

Oh, and I will have some mechanicals with me no matter what my primary head ends up being.

[samson33]

Your 436 gr Beamans will work just fine for elk.