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    #16
    Originally posted by doublearrow View Post
    Can you not just flush them in a toilet?
    no no no not this!

    it will kill the good bacteria in tank one!

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      #17
      Mine uses liquid bleach, a lot cheaper than the tablets

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        #18
        Originally posted by kruppa24 View Post
        Mine uses liquid bleach, a lot cheaper than the tablets
        Mine too.

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          #19
          best to control what goes in the system.
          worst thing to use in the house is anti bacterial bath soaps, anti bac dish detergents and liquid laundry soap, liquid dishwasher soap (pods of any kind). and bleach.
          use powder soaps that state "septic safe" on the box. if you bleach your counters or use anti bacterial cleaners, wipe with a paper towel and throw away. don't rinse sponges with bleach or anti-bacterial cleaners in sink.
          add septic treatment once every month or so be rinsing down drains.

          tide pods are as bad on your septic as the teens that eat them!

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            #20
            Originally posted by mudbone View Post
            Your nose must not work??? If you don't use some type of chlorine you are discharging raw fluid sewage on or near your yard. Are your kids or grandkids playing in or near that area??? Everything you wash, dispose or flush goes into that septic system and then is discharged onto the surrounding ground surface. Lots of possible germs with no disinfectant applied. Sounds like your installer's not too swift.
            mine doesn't stink but my neighbors do. a healthy system should work on its own.

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              #21
              I use liquid bleach but the guy that installed it said i could use tabs or liquid. I have a pipe sticking up with a fill line marked in it.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
                Yes. Mine has a 4” pvc stubbed beside it. Also make one that holds several tabs and is mounted “in line” vs tank
                mine would hold about 20 tabs in the 4" pipe. water trickles past and slowly dissolves. only add about 90 days.

                i have small grand kids... i want my lid as heavy as possible. or a lock!
                i'm sure there are options but your system is regulated by the county and any modification must be done by a licensed company.
                you are probably under contract with someone who monitors your system. call them to discuss options. not a DIY project.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by mudbone View Post
                  Your nose must not work??? If you don't use some type of chlorine you are discharging raw fluid sewage on or near your yard. Are your kids or grandkids playing in or near that area??? Everything you wash, dispose or flush goes into that septic system and then is discharged onto the surrounding ground surface. Lots of possible germs with no disinfectant applied. Sounds like your installer's not too swift.
                  Sound like you don’t know what your talking about.

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                    #24
                    I have been using 1 Gallon of a product call EM-1 for 6 years now. It has billions of live active colony forming units of microbes per milliliter (CFU/ml). Over 100 active enzymes (including protease and lipase) that break down grease and proteins. Live microbes from four genus. It is 100% organic and environmentally friendly. I have used it in my camper and deer lease facilities. And it's sold here in Texas.
                    Get rid of the stinky odors from your RV holding tank with our EM•1® Septic Treatment. This organic, environmentally friendly deodorizer is ideal for use in septic tanks, portable toilets in boats, RVs and buses. Enjoy a fresher smelling tank today! Free Shipping on Orders Over $60.

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                      #25
                      Chlorine in the pump tank and a stinky system have nothing to do with each other.

                      A system that stinks has gone anaerobic. The aerator isn't working or isn't working well.

                      As stated earlier, the chlorine in the pump tank is to kill potentially pathogenic bacteria and viruses.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by twobittxn View Post
                        Chlorine in the pump tank and a stinky system have nothing to do with each other.

                        A system that stinks has gone anaerobic. The aerator isn't working or isn't working well.

                        As stated earlier, the chlorine in the pump tank is to kill potentially pathogenic bacteria and viruses.

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                          #27
                          I found the Polylok lid mentioned above and it looks like a good option but I think I would have to replace the riser as well before it would fit:



                          How does the riser attach to the tank? I'm not even sure if the tank is concrete or fiberglass.

                          Old riser/lid:

                          Click image for larger version

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                            #28
                            Back to your problem...
                            You have a corrugated (culvert-type) pipe used "generically" as a riser for our tank, cut to length depending in the depth of your tank, with a conc. lid poured/formed to fit.

                            The one you linked looks like it goes on a tank specifically manufactured for a tank with a specific riser. (being manufacturer specific.)

                            I have had both types at different times.

                            tank/riser manf specific:

                            20" x 20" Septic Tank Riser Kit Overview: Our septic tank riser kits are measured by their inner diameter and height. The first number in their names is their inner diameter in inches, and the second number is their height in inches. This means that a 20’’x 20’’ riser kit has an inner diameter of 20 inches and a height


                            Like you have:



                            You might be able to get a lighter lid like this:







                            Or refer to my post above to install a 4" drop-tube....
                            Last edited by Philip-TX; 05-17-2018, 09:48 PM.

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                              #29
                              dug around a little...

                              Septic requirements:
                              https://texreg.sos.state.tx.us/public/readtac$ext.TacPage?sl=R&app=9&p_dir=&p_rloc=&p_tl oc=&p_ploc=&pg=1&p_tac=&ti=30&pt=1&ch=285&rl=32

                              Your lid must meet the weight requirement.

                              "...(e) RISERS
                              (1) The risers shall have inside diameters which are equal to or larger than the inspection or cleanout ports.
                              (2) Risers must be permanently fastened to the tank lid or cast into the tank. The connection between the riser and the tank lid must be watertight.
                              (3) Risers must be fitted with removable watertight caps and protected against unauthorized intrusions.
                              Acceptable protective measures include:
                              (A) a padlock;
                              (B) a cover that can be removed with tools;
                              (C) a cover having a minimum net weight of 29.5 kilograms (65 pounds) set into a recess of the tank lid; or
                              (D) any other means approved by the executive director.
                              (4) Risers and riser caps exposed to sunlight must have ultraviolet light protection.
                              (5) Risers must be able to withstand the pressures created by the surrounding soil.

                              but then again....
                              A 4"pvc with screw-on cap to drop tablets into isn't considered a riser.
                              Last edited by Philip-TX; 05-17-2018, 09:52 PM.

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                                #30
                                We had a new one installed recently that has the plastic/resin lids that sit just above grade. Down side is you definitely don't want to run over them (not that hard) the upside is tank access is always exposed. The tank that requires the tabs has a 4 inch flush out pvc connection that you drop the tabs through. It is actually a little more complex than just that as when the system cycles it runs water through the "tab holder". Might be worth getting something like that priced out lid wise so you aren't dealing with heavy concrete. I can send you pics if you would like.

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