Easton axis vs Easton full metal jacket

[DapperDan]

Maybe get a software program like Ontarget's Software for Archers and play around to get the specs you want. I believe they still offer a free trial version. It's not 100% accurate but it will give you a place to start before real world testing.

Here's what I'm running:
Chill X: 60lb / 27.5
26.5" Axis .340 w75gr insert and broadhead adapter.
125g Slick Trick Mags
Nockturnals
Flex Fletch FP-360's
Total arrow weight: 505 w205 up front
17% FOC
257 fps

No complaints.

Pretty close to what I have setup on my bow as far as specs. I'm not real crazy that my arrow sticks out 3.5 inches past my rest when at full draw... it literally is past my riser and under my sight.


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[Outlaw_6]

Easton axis vs Easton full metal jacket

Sounds like a great plan. Wouldn't know where to start...


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Maybe get a software program like Ontarget's Software for Archers and play around to get the specs you want. I believe they still offer a free trial version. It's not 100% accurate but it will give you a place to start before real world testing.

Here's what I'm running:
Chill X: 60lb / 27.5
26.5" Axis .340 w75gr insert and broadhead adapter.
125g Slick Trick Mags
Nockturnals
Flex Fletch FP-360's
Total arrow weight: 505 w205 up front
17% FOC
257 fps

No complaints.

[Lawhorn]

I've shot both arrows and made the switch to Gold Tip Kinetic Pierces. Durable and are micro diameter. FOC is easy to obtain as well.


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[Loneaggie]

Axis. Not really a good reason for FMJ. Need a heavier arrow? More spine, brass insert, and heavier head. Hard to get decent FOC out of a FMJ. Axis are also incredibly durable.

[MONSTERKEN]

Great thread! I too shot Easton FMJ's, then went to the Deep Six Easton Injexion FMJ's. Unfortunately I was not happy with there performances. Great penetration though. Problem was I could see them fishtailing in flight, hitting where I was aiming, but it didn't seem right. Was shooting 100gr fp's and bh's. I even had them cut real short to stiffen their spine. I am shooting 70lbs with a 29.5 dl. Then I talked to Muddyfuzzy. Do yourself a favor and get you some Muddyfuzzy built Black Eagle arrows. The best arrows I've shot. I've ordered 2 dozen, and about to order another 2 dozen for my wife and daughter's. I've learned a lot from Muddyfuzzy where I am starting to build and play around with different combos. He knows his stuff.

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[gonehuntin68]

I don't like how easy the FMJ's bend. I went through more FMJ's shooting pigs because they bend then any carbon arrow I've shot pigs with. For the last several years I've been buying cheap carbon arrows from Sportmans guide for $45.00 a dozen but I do have to cut them and put the insert in. To me cutting and putting the insert in is a advantage because it give me the chance to square the ends. I've bought arrows online and from archery shops that didn't square the end before putting the insert in and that can cause flight problems with fixed heads. I also normally can get them for around $35.00 a dozen with the coupon codes they offer. No they are not as straight as the more expensive arrows but in all honesty I can't tell the difference in my shooting and doubt many on here could. I do end up culling a arrow or two out of each dozen that I just can't get to spin right so my fixed blade broadheads don't fly good with those but I use those to shoot targets with field tips or will put a small game head on them and shoot coons and such with them. Some years I go through more then 100 arrows a year so spending $35-40 a dozen saves me a lot of money over the $100+ a dozen arrows and they kill pigs and deer just as good.

[DapperDan]

MuddyFuzzy and others have done a great job giving direction where to start on an arrow build and pros and cons of Axis vs FMJ.

DapperDan...a place to start is by breaking down your current setup into its components and doing the math yourself as to FOC, FPS (done), momentum, etc. and tinker. You might simply achieve what you desire by simply going from a 100gr to 125gr...but then your spine will change (weaken) and you might need to shorten your arrow shaft length...or not. I can shoot 100gr (307 fps) heads and 125gr (297 fps) heads on the Beman Hunter ICS 300 @ 31" to 40yds with only a 4" drop and maintaining a 4" group (not the best not the worst) however I dont try longer distances that you are trying to achieve.

Good luck

So I get confused on spine and knowing if it's too stiff or too weak as well how to check for that? Not to mention I have no idea how to do that math. I'm not a newby on archery. I can shoot. Have always been able to. But I've gotten **** about things as I've gotten older. An example would be buying new arrows and seeing some fletching has more glue than others. Or one fletching isn't quite perfectly set on a perfect helical compared to others. Be it a 16th or 32nd of an inch. It still drives me batty....


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[Stoof]

I like the FMJ's and have never had an issue with them bending that was not easily noticeable. I have had more of an issue with flaring the aluminium right above the insert. But this has always happened after a pass through then hitting rocks. I still have a bunch of axis and still shoot them occosianally. They are both great arrows.

[Briar Friar]

MuddyFuzzy and others have done a great job giving direction where to start on an arrow build and pros and cons of Axis vs FMJ.

DapperDan...a place to start is by breaking down your current setup into its components and doing the math yourself as to FOC, FPS (done), momentum, etc. and tinker. You might simply achieve what you desire by simply going from a 100gr to 125gr...but then your spine will change (weaken) and you might need to shorten your arrow shaft length...or not. I can shoot 100gr (307 fps) heads and 125gr (297 fps) heads on the Beman Hunter ICS 300 @ 31" to 40yds with only a 4" drop and maintaining a 4" group (not the best not the worst) however I dont try longer distances that you are trying to achieve.

Good luck

[Fishndude]

So what's wrong with the deep six?


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Nothing is wrong with Deep Six except you'll need to stick up on Deep Six broadheads and field points. Just trying to save you the extra expense.

[ar3731guy]

[QUOTE=DapperDan;12541956]How you like em?
I think they are more duarable than the FMJs.

[DapperDan]

As with any shaft of any spine a reduction in length decreases the dynamic spine just as lengthening the same shaft increases the dynamic reaction. The generic terms are stiffening and weakening the spine. With a ton of work and working against physic and basic Archery reason you can get almost any arrow to tune in any bow. With that being said we are all different and likewise our equipment so setting up what's best for you so be the goal.

Pick a target set of specs. FPS, FOC or EFOC, mass weight, momentum......what ever. This will get you in the right spine with the right build and broadhead. After that you can experiment with shaft length to find the optimal length/dynamic spine for that particular set up. It's a good way to learn, it will challenge your knowledge and make you a better archer for it. There are lots of very knowledgeable folks on this site that will be more than happy in assisting you in this process.


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Sounds like a great plan. Wouldn't know where to start...


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[muddyfuzzy]

As with any shaft of any spine a reduction in length decreases the dynamic spine just as lengthening the same shaft increases the dynamic reaction. The generic terms are stiffening and weakening the spine. With a ton of work and working against physic and basic Archery reason you can get almost any arrow to tune in any bow. With that being said we are all different and likewise our equipment so setting up what's best for you so be the goal.

Pick a target set of specs. FPS, FOC or EFOC, mass weight, momentum......what ever. This will get you in the right spine with the right build and broadhead. After that you can experiment with shaft length to find the optimal length/dynamic spine for that particular set up. It's a good way to learn, it will challenge your knowledge and make you a better archer for it. There are lots of very knowledgeable folks on this site that will be more than happy in assisting you in this process.


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[DapperDan]

If you are shooting the old school Axis N-fused you are between 9-11% depending upon a few variables such as shaft length. You shoot a normal set-up and that is pretty average FOC on a hunting arrow. You give up a little more with the lighted nock and it's weight but this a good set-up for you. If you like the Axis and want a more aggressive set-up then think about dropping down a spine and adding some weight via the broadhead and/or insert combination (switching to brass). Finish the tuning with the shaft length and you will be good to go.



Like I said before, the FMJ is great for adding a ton of mass weight but the FOC will always suffer. However, with some work you could have a lighter arrow that is much more aggressive in the FOC department and could have the potential of penetrating like a heavier build..........with better recovery..........more forgiveness...........and a flatter trajectory.



Personally I don't have time to check jacketed arrows for bends and what not and I'm **** enough that if I did shoot them would feel compelled to do so. Carbon on the other hand, I can flex test it, chunk it, throw it back in the quiver and get on down the road.

Sounds like what I'd really like to do. However I'm new to custom arrows so to speak so I'd hate to be going in the wrong direction. I'd need to pick some brains of someone that's done it. I understand most of how to but an example would be finishing tuning with shaft length. Ya lost me. Lol


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[DapperDan]

An axis arrow with 75 go brass insert will weigh less than a FMJ arrow of the same length with an aluminum insert. And your FOC will go up with the axis. I made the switch from FMJ to axis for this very same reason.

How you like em?


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