Question on R panel closure/trim

[Ironman]

I understand what you are saying but in a pinch it would work on shed roof to wall...I have used it a couple times to add a porch to an existing metal building to not have to cut into the wall...Silicon and screw the r panel side of trim to r panel wall and screw the flat side of the trim to the shed roof and put in enclosures on that part...That's all I was trying to explain..

Look at the detail on the left of that piece you're referring to. See how the high slopes down to nothing. That is made to go on the end of a roof sheet, not in the middle of a wall sheet. The high doesn't continue, it stops at the vertical.

[RodinaRanč]

He could probably get away with it even on a down sloping roof to the wall if he has the trim custom made with the vertical, humped leg being 16 to 18" high and put's the flat side under the roof with it also being 16 to 18" long.

I've used that transition trim several times where people didn't want to pay the extra labor to have all the wall sheets cut. It works quite well when the roof is rising to meet the wall and will seal pretty much forever if you use GE brand silicon caulk.

This was my original thought & what i was trying to explain/ask abt... silicone/tar the humped trim leg & screw to the vertical wall, then the last sheet of R panel over the uncrimped leg...but I understand if the highs aren't consistent, i'm back to compromising with foam or cutting the wall, reinforcing with purlin & flashing

[Ironman]

Bueno...that i follow. I stuck a level on 6-8 random sheets & they were all plumb, but I did not measure high:high...i'll do that!

Don't just go high to high. You will never see 1/16" or even an 1/8". Get someone to hold the stupid end and take off walking. I promise you they are not consistently on a 1' layout consecutively.

[RodinaRanč]

You can't break highs in one leg and leave the other straight. The stretch out and physics simply won't allow it.

Crimp one piece 1/2 its width..then flash to another std 90 un crimped trim piece...(I understand the crimp takes more material) you fellas have made me find jokes ...& i think have convinced me what i need is a cutoff wheel & std flashing...unfortunately

[Ironman]

This was my original thought & what i was trying to explain/ask abt... silicone/tar the humped trim leg & screw to the vertical wall, then the last sheet of R panel over the uncrimped leg...but I understand if the highs aren't consistent, i'm back to compromising with foam or cutting the wall, reinforcing with purlin & flashing

You can forget the highs of the trim on the wall. The piece next to that trim is a roof to wall transition. The "broke" leg of that trim goes over the high of your roof sheet (that's why it's broke that way) and the vertical is "supposed" to go behind your wall sheet.......BUT, you could get outside R panel closure and put between the flat vertical leg and screw to the highs of your wall panel. Not right and not totally waterproof, but for what you are wanting to do, that would work.

[Draco]

They have been on the several of them I've used and I've had no problems with them even in a 50' run of them.

[Ironman]

Crimp one piece 1/2 its width..then flash to another std 90 un crimped trim piece...you fellas have made me find jokes ...& i think have convinced me what i need is a cutoff wheel & std flashing...unfortunately

It's easier to show than to explain in writing.

[Lazyman]

Look at the detail on the left of that piece you're referring to. See how the high slopes down to nothing. That is made to go on the end of a roof sheet, not in the middle of a wall sheet. The high doesn't continue, it stops at the vertical.

I'm not arguing what the piece is supposed or designed to be used for...I'm simply saying in a pinch it has worked for me for what I explained^^^...Maybe not for everyone else lol..

Good luck to the OP...

[RodinaRanč]

Oh i know..I retyped several x's before even posting...lol

[Ironman]

I'm not arguing what the piece is supposed or designed to be used for...I'm simply saying in a pinch it has worked for me for what I explained^^^...Maybe not for everyone else lol..

Good luck to the OP...

If the roof to wall wasn't pitched, then yeah, I guess. The highs in that trim doesn't "go all the way through" the trim. The trim would be tilted away from the wall at the bottom, but use enough tape seal, stitch screws and caulk, then you can "value engineer" a lot of things.

[RodinaRanč]

So...with some former fab shop experience.....& not being concerned with "proper" (only functional & easy on the eyes)...why wouldn't the following work?

Start with flat trim stock (for the sake of argument....say sheared 18" wide/12' long)

Then...."High" crimp on slope angle with a crimp length/depth of say 6" into the 18"(even if each crimp is custom width/distance & it costs me, I only need 2, 12' pieces(i.e. 12 crimps per trim piece)

Then....brake @ 90 degrees.... right at the end of the crimp (say 6 1/8") creating a 6" Crimped leg & ~12" uncrimped leg

Finally...Shear uncrimped leg down to 6" across the 12' length

I know this would be "custom" work with a "custom" price, but still less complicated than cutting the vertical r panel & buttoning up everything involved with doing that

[Ironman]

You simply can not break highs into only part of the piece. It can not be done. Sheet metal breaks just simply don't work that way. That's why the piece in question is "rolled".

You had the right idea to begin with, for what you want. Slap a flat piece against the wall with outside closure and call it good. It's not like your building is going to leak, just your "breezeway."

[marshhunter]

Give me a call tomorrow 2813420760 ext 6603 I work for mueller and can get you setup

Stephen


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