Question on R panel closure/trim

[RodinaRanč]

I have a DDM close by & they crimp/break all their flat stock for sheet & trim, so i'm assuming they can make/break to the pitch i need

[Lazyman]

That won't work.

why not...r panel side of trim to wall r panel and flat on top of new roof...

[Dale Moser]

That won't work. That's a high end roof to wall transition.

Nope, the slope will make the ridges line up right.

You have to cut the vertical wall and put in a piece of flashing to do it right.

[Ironman]

why not...r panel side of trim to wall r panel and flat on top of new roof...

Because his roof should be pitched, running on a slope down his wall.

[Lazyman]

If it is gable roof then yes you are correct,,,I had it in my mind a shed roof but that was pure assumption...

[RodinaRanč]

Well believe it. Here's the problem. As your roof sheet slopes down your wall, the highs on your wall sheets will not be 1' on center, due to the "run" down your wall. The steeper the pitch, the longer the run between wall sheet highs. You can put rubber closure between your flat trim and wall panels, but it wouldn't be totally waterproof, but that doesn't sound like an issue. How are you going to support your additional roof sheets between the buildings?

Yes i think i'm following, but the "high's" should be consistent (if the vertical wall is plumb/straight, which every vertical panel i put a level on is) & the pitch is consistent from peak to drip edge , so if i provide the pitch & total length to the material guys, it should work (assuming they can crimp on the pitch angle)

I'm supporting the new roof with 4"x 1/4" sq tubing main beam supported by 4"x1/4" sq upright "posts" concreted in before the slab was poured, which i have 2 winches & lighting mounted to...then running 2"x1/4" sq tubing rafters that i will screw the new roof too (i know...PIA getting screws in, but i'm only extending 13'). My walk-in cooler is in the small shop, so i want to run a meat rail/trolly from the winch/single tree to the walk-in & the 2"x1/4" rafters should give me plenty of support to do that.... i enjoy piddling with meat & i'm getting too freak'n old to be carrying red stag & show hog halves by hand from the single tree & hanging them on a hook in the cooler

[Dale Moser]

Yes i think i'm following, but the "high's" should be consistent (if the vertical wall is plumb/straight, which every vertical panel i put a level on is) , so if i provide the pitch & total length to the material guys, it should work.

I'm supporting the new roof with 4"x 1/4" sq tubing main beam supported by 4"x1/4" sq upright "posts" concreted in before the slab was poured, which i have 2 winches & lighting mounted to...then running 2"x1/4" sq tubing rafters that i will screw the new roof too (i know...PIA getting screws in, but i'm only extending 13'). My walk-in cooler is in the small shop, so i want to run a meat rail/trolly from the winch/single tree to the walk-in & the 2"x1/4" rafters should give me plenty of support to do that.... i enjoy piddling with meat & i'm getting too freak'n old to be carrying red stag & show hog halves by hand & hanging them on a hook in the cooler

If they make them according to pitch.....you could be on to something. But simply caulking it will leak eventually, unless you cut the wall and tuck that trim behind it.

[Ironman]

If it is gable roof then yes you are correct,,,I had it in my mind a shed roof but that was pure assumption...

Even still, those highs slope down to zero. His wall sheet highs will continue down the wall. That trim is made to go on the top end(high end) of a single sloped roof, and the wall sheets would sit on top with the vertical leg behind wall sheets. The trim he needs is next to the trim you referred to. It's a wall to roof transition, and his wall would need to be cut and the vertical leg slipped up behind the wall sheet. Now, he could for-go the cut and just use closures between the vertical leg and wall sheet, but it won't be completely waterproof and would be wrong, but if he can live with it, then.......

[RodinaRanč]

If they make them according to pitch.....you could be on to something. But simply caulking it will leak eventually, unless you cut the wall and tuck that trim behind it.

I was thinking roofing tar behind the side mating to the vertical wall.. have that flange be 6" or so if need be for plenty tar. I'm a helluva lot more proficient with a chaulk gun then i am a cutoff blade...lol

[Ironman]

Yes i think i'm following, but the "high's" should be consistent (if the vertical wall is plumb/straight, which every vertical panel i put a level on is) & the pitch is consistent from peak to drip edge , so if i provide the pitch & total length to the material guys, it should work (assuming they can crimp on the pitch angle)

I'm supporting the new roof with 4"x 1/4" sq tubing main beam supported by 4"x1/4" sq upright "posts" concreted in before the slab was poured, which i have 2 winches & lighting mounted to...then running 2"x1/4" sq tubing rafters that i will screw the new roof too (i know...PIA getting screws in, but i'm only extending 13'). My walk-in cooler is in the small shop, so i want to run a meat rail/trolly from the winch/single tree to the walk-in & the 2"x1/4" rafters should give me plenty of support to do that.... i enjoy piddling with meat & i'm getting too freak'n old to be carrying red stag & show hog halves by hand from the single tree & hanging them on a hook in the cooler

Trust me, that cannot be done. You can't break "highs" into trim consecutively like that. That's why the piece you are looking at says it's "rolled", and I promise you, your highs on your wall are not consistently on 1' centers. Take a tape and measure out and measure 10' of wall, I bet when you get to 10', it's not dead center of that high.

[RodinaRanč]

Even still, those highs slope down to zero. His wall sheet highs will continue down the wall. That trim is made to go on the top end(high end) of a single sloped roof, and the wall sheets would sit on top with the vertical leg behind wall sheets. The trim he needs is next to the trim you referred to. It's a wall to roof transition, and his wall would need to be cut and the vertical leg slipped up behind the wall sheet. Now, he could for-go the cut and just use closures between the vertical leg and wall sheet, but it won't be completely waterproof and would be wrong, but if he can live with it, then.......

I'm not following & not suggesting you are wrong, just trying to follow.... but if the slope is consistent, which i'm using new structural tubing so it should be pretty dang close & the vertical wall is plumb, why wouldn't the vertical "highs" be consistent? I understand they won't be 1' consistent on slope but should be ____consistent

[Draco]

He could probably get away with it even on a down sloping roof to the wall if he has the trim custom made with the vertical, humped leg being 16 to 18" high and put's the flat side under the roof with it also being 16 to 18" long.

I've used that transition trim several times where people didn't want to pay the extra labor to have all the wall sheets cut. It works quite well when the roof is rising to meet the wall and will seal pretty much forever if you use GE brand silicon caulk.

[Lazyman]

Even still, those highs slope down to zero. His wall sheet highs will continue down the wall. That trim is made to go on the top end(high end) of a single sloped roof, and the wall sheets would sit on top with the vertical leg behind wall sheets. The trim he needs is next to the trim you referred to. It's a wall to roof transition, and his wall would need to be cut and the vertical leg slipped up behind the wall sheet. Now, he could for-go the cut and just use closures between the vertical leg and wall sheet, but it won't be completely waterproof and would be wrong, but if he can live with it, then.......

I understand what you are saying but in a pinch it would work on shed roof to wall...I have used it a couple times to add a porch to an existing metal building to not have to cut into the wall...Silicon and screw the r panel side of trim to r panel wall and screw the flat side of the trim to the shed roof and put in enclosures on that part...That's all I was trying to explain..

[RodinaRanč]

Trust me, that cannot be done. You can't break "highs" into trim consecutively like that. That's why the piece you are looking at says it's "rolled", and I promise you, your highs on your wall are not consistently on 1' centers. Take a tape and measure out and measure 10' of wall, I bet when you get to 10', it's not dead center of that high.

Bueno...that i follow. I stuck a level on 6-8 random sheets & they were all plumb, but I did not measure high:high...i'll do that!

[Ironman]

He could probably get away with it even on a down sloping roof to the wall if he has the trim custom made with the vertical, humped leg being 16 to 18" high and put's the flat side under the roof with it also being 16 to 18" long.

I've used that transition trim several times where people didn't want to pay the extra labor to have all the wall sheets cut. It works quite well when the roof is rising to meet the wall and will seal pretty much forever if you use GE brand silicon caulk.

You can't break highs in one leg and leave the other straight. The stretch out and physics simply won't allow it.