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Replacing Trailer Boards

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    #31
    Originally posted by Thumper View Post
    Might just put them in place without screwing them down to let them shrink then tighten them up and add a spacer along one edge.
    Good idea.

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      #32
      Originally posted by DaveC View Post
      Can you bend a 12' like vid shows bending a 16'?

      One of my boards in the middle of the deck is rotted out but the rest look fine.
      I did my 12' trailer, used a floor jack in the middle and my weight on the end. I had a helper, my daughter .

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        #33
        Time to get your flex on.

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          #34
          My family builds flatbed trailers, gooseneck and bumper pull, for a living. I think for better than 40 yrs. The back angle (on theirs) is not considered a "structural" part of the trailer. Yeah, it can't help but strengthen it, but it's there to "wrap over" the end of the floor boards. All the ways mentioned will work, but I always cut the back angle, slide out old boards, install new, weld angle back on. I know you said you don't have a welder, but I would still do it this way, but bolt the angle in place in several places along its length. The main reason for removing the back angle (for me) is the boards come out/go back in easier. It's just easier to slide boards in and out without jackin around with the front rail, nothin in the back in your way. If you go this route, you may have to pry up front hold down strap a hair for a little breathing room to get boards out or put new ones in. One note on the back angle, you should be able to get by only having to cut the end welds on the angle, then pry up till you can grab edge of angle with a 15" or so crescent, and the welds along the underneath/bottom edge will break with a little back and forth crescent work. Clear as mud I'm sure! Good Luck, and God Bless, Rusty

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            #35
            Those boards in your picture look great compared to some of my farm trailers!

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              #36
              Originally posted by Peta-hata View Post
              C purlin is another option.
              I purchased a 16 ft. trailer from a fellow TBHer. It had c-purlins installed for the deck. Should last a lifetime.

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                #37
                I like it better when the boards have some gap between them. They last longer that way.

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                  #38
                  I have always use a grinder and cutoff wheel, cut the tack welds on flat or angle holding boards in. Then take sawzall and cut your boards next to each crossmember where the floor screws are securing that board down. Be sure to watch for the wiring harness when cutting like this. Then what you have left is small piece of wood and floor screws. Take your hammer and beat the wood off, a few whacks and you have screws left. Take grinder and grind then off flat. Lay the boards in starting from one side and go towards center, stop when you are one board from center. Then take a couple ratchet wrap around boards and frame of trailer and cinch the boards up tight. Starting on outer board drill you pilot holes and my suggestion is to go a trailer place and buy the floor screws used for 18 wheelers, these will not break. Repeat for other side. Now for center board take measure for each foot because its going to be different down the length of trailer. Mark that off on your board, cut it, then lay it down and hammer it in, put screws in. Take it to welding shop and have them tack you cap back on, or bolt it as suggested. Putting the boards in tight like that will yield small gaps when the boards dry out. You can always just lay the boards in with gaps, usually will consist of 2x6's and 1 2x4 for the center. I do recommend the 18 wheeler floor screws though and put atleast 3 rows down, it will keep the trailer quiet..no loose boards bouncing as I have seen on the cheaper trailers where they just lay the boards down and cap the ends. Husky trailers in CC has all the parts I need. I believe there is one in Houston but any trailer shop should have those. Good luck

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                    #39
                    Quick follow up post. Since I didn't have a welder and was working solo I decided to use a reciprocating saw and cut the front piece off and bolt back in place.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Chew View Post
                      I need to do a 20' trailer. My 5x8 trailer was a little hard and I had to use kind of pry bar/board to get enough bend in the last few boards to get them in. Here's one way to do it if your channel is welded and not bolted on:

                      Trailer Deck Replacement - YouTube


                      Replacing 16' trailer boards (No welding) - YouTube
                      This is how I done it on my 16 foot trailer. Had a few skinned knuckles and a few choice words, but got it done.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by BrandonH View Post
                        Quick follow up post. Since I didn't have a welder and was working solo I decided to use a reciprocating saw and cut the front piece off and bolt back in place.
                        Looks good Sir!

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                          #42
                          tagged

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                            #43
                            It can easily be done with out cutting anything

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                              #44
                              Some of you guys go to and awful lot of trouble to do an easy job. The front metal strip is just tacked in place so that it can be easily removed to change the boards.

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                                #45
                                I notched the back angle iron just larger than the size of one board. Took one out then slid the others to the notch to get them out. When replaced you bolt down the last board. This way you can do it easily next time. Took less than an hour to get them all out that way.

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