would you pay more for a house....

[8mpg]

The homes I build as specs are in the $350k- 400 range. And 2780-2950 sqft. Range. I used to live in one that I didn't do anything for aside from the norm for efficiency. Osb sheathing, tech shield, low e windows, etc. Our highest Bill was $180 with the ac at 72 during the day and 68 at night. The others I have built have been about the same. If I wanted to really go for a low utility bill, I would go 2x6 walls, caulk each insulation cavity, bibs in the wall, porches on the south and west sides of the house, properly placed trees for shade, led lights, and some solar tubes. I would spend less on that, have a better built house, nicer landscaping, lower bills, and money in my pocket.
The problem with foam, is by the time you have paid for your initial investment, your original hvac system is worn out and needs to be replaced. The homes I build cost about 2k for Batts and blown, foam would be north of 9k. Hvac is typically a wash. Yes, it's less tonnage for a foamed home but you typically need a 2 speed handler. So the savings isn't really there for me, but it is for a bunch of people. I try to use things that serve more than one purpose or add more than one value in my homes like the osb, or trees, or 2x6. I get 2 benefits out of each of those. For me foam gets only one, and then causes issues if you ever have a leak or need to drop a line in the wall, which are becoming things of the past now too. But that's just my idea on all this. Not saying it's right, just my position.

You have some great ideas...Ill always say do foam if it makes sense, but I think simple ideas like caulking you mention is key. Caulk ALL of the sill plates, all 2 stud areas like windows (king/jack studs), corner studs if you arent doing something like a California corner. The OSB can be negated with structural foam for the corners. I like the idea of OSB for more rigidty but engineering says you dont have to. Proper air tight and caulked exterior penetrations, electrical outlets, etc. Im all about a house that is tight as possible and bringing in outside air on your terms (though a ERV/HRV and filtered). Foaming the walls probably is NOT the most cost efficient route, I will give you that. Exterior rigid foam with taped seams is the way to go. Not sure why you would think you need a 2 speed system just because of foam. Spend the $300 and get a manual J.

The only thing I will argue with you on is the foaming the roof line. A sealed attic has much more benefit with placing the a/c and ducting in the attic. The a/c should always be in a conditioned space. Im sure in the future it will become code. If you dont want to foam, I would go with a mechanical room and soffits. Air seal all the drywall and do traditional blown in insulation in the attic. That 120* attic air is a killer in efficiency.

I have researched for 2 years while remodeling my house and have really enjoyed the knowledge. I always say that my dream job would be home building.

I sell homes for one of the most energy efficient builders around. We can build a 3k square foot home with an average electric bill around $115/month...and we guarantee it, as someone mentioned before.

When a new home is already efficient it makes things like solar panels have a much lower ROI, hence we don't even offer them.

Also, spray foam is fine, but depending on the humidity levels where you live, you may be better off with standard insulation.

Im sure your company uses a manual J and sizes the a/c properly but that is the reason for it. Smaller units dont short cycle. You want the a/c to come on for 30min or more at a time to try and condense and dehumidify the air. A/C units with the old mentality often short cycles and runs for 5-10 minutes not allowing the unit to dehumidify.

Moved into a 3500 sq ft house five years ago and a/c bills ran $600 in the summer. House was 11 yrs old when we moved in. We decided to build out our attic into a play room for the kids. It added 400 sq. ft. As they were re-pitching the roof our GC, and a friend, said a spray foam company was begging him for a test house to do at cost to prove out the spray foam. We paid $3k four years ago and had it done. Our electric bills have been 20% to 35% less monthly since. Has easily paid off. Plus, the attic is manageable to be in even in August. Has worked out for us.

Thats great to hear. The key is to make sure it makes sense. $600 electric bill would have me reconsidering moving lol

[Sticks&Strings]

You have some great ideas...Ill always say do foam if it makes sense, but I think simple ideas like caulking you mention is key. Caulk ALL of the sill plates, all 2 stud areas like windows (king/jack studs), corner studs if you arent doing something like a California corner. The OSB can be negated with structural foam for the corners. I like the idea of OSB for more rigidty but engineering says you dont have to. Proper air tight and caulked exterior penetrations, electrical outlets, etc. Im all about a house that is tight as possible and bringing in outside air on your terms (though a ERV/HRV and filtered). Foaming the walls probably is NOT the most cost efficient route, I will give you that. Exterior rigid foam with taped seams is the way to go. Not sure why you would think you need a 2 speed system just because of foam. Spend the $300 and get a manual J.

The only thing I will argue with you on is the foaming the roof line. A sealed attic has much more benefit with placing the a/c and ducting in the attic. The a/c should always be in a conditioned space. Im sure in the future it will become code. If you dont want to foam, I would go with a mechanical room and soffits. Air seal all the drywall and do traditional blown in insulation in the attic. That 120* attic air is a killer in efficiency.

I have researched for 2 years while remodeling my house and have really enjoyed the knowledge. I always say that my dream job would be home building.



Im sure your company uses a manual J and sizes the a/c properly but that is the reason for it. Smaller units dont short cycle. You want the a/c to come on for 30min or more at a time to try and condense and dehumidify the air. A/C units with the old mentality often short cycles and runs for 5-10 minutes not allowing the unit to dehumidify.



Thats great to hear. The key is to make sure it makes sense. $600 electric bill would have me reconsidering moving lol

Lol, yeah I didn't bring up the hvac in a hot attic because I can't disagree with you on it or at least no intelligently. I will say this though. I don't like a foamed roof for the simple reason is...have you ever had a roof leak? Ever tried locating a tricky one? Now foam the whole thing and find it. this is my biggest beef with all foam aside from cost and the roof is the worst place for this.

And as for the osb, it is required on engineering by the coast in windstorm areas as well as in Houston on many or all homes. Not only do you have to have it, but their is a required nailing pattern on the edges and in the field of it. And I actually don't mind this inspection and requirement. The one I hate is all the hold downs, but that is a different story. Did you also caulk around all of you recessed cans? That can be a big one.

[8mpg]

Lol, yeah I didn't bring up the hvac in a hot attic because I can't disagree with you on it or at least no intelligently. I will say this though. I don't like a foamed roof for the simple reason is...have you ever had a roof leak? Ever tried locating a tricky one? Now foam the whole thing and find it. this is my biggest beef with all foam aside from cost and the roof is the worst place for this.

And as for the osb, it is required on engineering by the coast in windstorm areas as well as in Houston on many or all homes. Not only do you have to have it, but their is a required nailing pattern on the edges and in the field of it. And I actually don't mind this inspection and requirement. The one I hate is all the hold downs, but that is a different story. Did you also caulk around all of you recessed cans? That can be a big one.

I didnt mess with air sealing the attic space that much due to the semi conditioned space and having a sealed attic. I read that mastic tape is probably the best way to seal the recessed can lights or to build foam boxes around them. I got my a/c guy to mastic all the a/c connections around the air handler, and the vents.

As far as roof leak...Im all about a metal roof. While they can still leak, they seems less prone to leak.

I forget about hurricane areas. I live in the DFW area...

[cattlelackranch]

Lol, yeah I didn't bring up the hvac in a hot attic because I can't disagree with you on it or at least no intelligently. I will say this though. I don't like a foamed roof for the simple reason is...have you ever had a roof leak? Ever tried locating a tricky one? Now foam the whole thing and find it. this is my biggest beef with all foam aside from cost and the roof is the worst place for this.

And as for the osb, it is required on engineering by the coast in windstorm areas as well as in Houston on many or all homes. Not only do you have to have it, but their is a required nailing pattern on the edges and in the field of it. And I actually don't mind this inspection and requirement. The one I hate is all the hold downs, but that is a different story. Did you also caulk around all of you recessed cans? That can be a big one.

Agreed on the foaming the roof. You would have a hard time finding a leak. It would be a nightmare.

Talk to you insulation guy about spraying 3" foam between the ceiling joist on the Sheetrock and then blowing an R-30 over it. I've had great results.

[Cabela]

I know who you're voting for [emoji38]

[be12hunt]

I wouldn't pay much more for these things unless I knew I would get that money back. I definitely wouldn't worry about the scrap wood.

[Sticks&Strings]

I know who you're voting for [emoji38]

Lol. I dont, but I heard you are volunteering for bernies campaign team. Feel the burn baby!!! Lol