Broadhead Tuning...!

[Arrowsmith]

To correct low would u take the twist out of the bottom of the control cable?

On my Hoyts I twist or untwist my control cable at the top end.



FIX the LATERAL nock travel issue first (bare shaft is hitting left or right of the fletched).

FIX the VERTICAL nock travel issue second (bare shaft is hitting higher or lower than the fletched).

VERY COMMON to fix the lateral nock travel issue, and then see a vertical nock travel issue.

So.....

step 1 is going to be fix the yoke cable leg twists...
(bares shafts missing to the RIGHT of fletched arrows.....shorten left side yoke cable leg & lengthen right side yoke cable leg)...

shoot multiple bare shafts, to confirm we have a bow adjustment issue and not a shooter technique inconsistency issue...

Repeat adjustments until the bare shaft(s) are impacting directly ABOVE or BELOW fletched arrows.


Then......

step 2 is always going to be fixed the vertical nock travel issue
(bare shafts missing DIRECTLY ABOVE or BELOW fletched arrows).

Vertical nock travel is cam sync.

I like to use twists (ADD or REMOVE twists in the control cable) to change cam rotation position at full draw.
Try a half twist adjustment.
Then, try an extra full twist (same direction adjustment).
Then, try an extra TWO full twists (same direction adjustment).
Then, try an extra FOUR full twists (same direction adjustment).

You will very easily see a change, and you will see if the direction you chose to go (either ADD twists or REMOVE twists) is the correct direction for adjustment.

If you cam timing is already really close (on Hoyts...dead even on the draw stops or top cam hitting a tad early) you may simply want to raise your rest a very small amount.

[Arrowsmith]

I have never had a tuned bow, in 30 years. Spine, draw weight, fixed, mechanical, rest, sight, etc., nothing ever got me putting field tips and broadheads in the same hole. Adjust to your broadheads for season. It is easier and less of a headache.

Hey...over the years I have done that too.....but when your arrows are leaving your bow dead nuts straight and level you will get much better penetration and broad head performance. When your field points and broad heads are not hitting dead on (or very close) your arrow flight is not near optimal. I have seen guys (including myself) that have moved their sights to sight in their broad heads. Many times your will see the arrow almost side ways down range before the fletching correct the flight. The further the shot the less accurate this will be.

Will it work. Yes.

Is there a better way. Yes

Tuning your bow is kinda like changing your oil. Its not that difficult. You just have to learn how to do it and take the time to do it.

[gonehuntin68]

One thing that I almost never see mentioned on these type of threads is if your torquing your bow during the shot you will not get your fixed blade broadheads to hit the same spot as your field tips and you will not get a perfect hole when shooting through paper. I've spent many of hour trying to paper tune with no luck until I realized when I drew my bow back and was anchored I was torquing the bow and this is why I couldn't paper tune my bow. I made a adjustment to my grip and it fixed the torquing issue and had it paper tuned in short order. After that my broadheads and field tips hit the same spot. A easy way to tell if your torquing your bow at full draw is to look how the the string is coming off your cam while at full draw. If it is coming off the cam at any kind of angle then your torquing the bow.

[ATI]

One thing that I almost never see mentioned on these type of threads is if your torquing your bow during the shot you will not get your fixed blade broadheads to hit the same spot as your field tips and you will not get a perfect hole when shooting through paper. I've spent many of hour trying to paper tune with no luck until I realized when I drew my bow back and was anchored I was torquing the bow and this is why I couldn't paper tune my bow. I made a adjustment to my grip and it fixed the torquing issue and had it paper tuned in short order. After that my broadheads and field tips hit the same spot. A easy way to tell if your torquing your bow at full draw is to look how the the string is coming off your cam while at full draw. If it is coming off the cam at any kind of angle then your torquing the bow.

Please define "Torquing a bow" what is it and how is it done so I can avoid it?

[Arrowsmith]

One thing that I almost never see mentioned on these type of threads is if your torquing your bow during the shot you will not get your fixed blade broadheads to hit the same spot as your field tips and you will not get a perfect hole when shooting through paper. I've spent many of hour trying to paper tune with no luck until I realized when I drew my bow back and was anchored I was torquing the bow and this is why I couldn't paper tune my bow. I made a adjustment to my grip and it fixed the torquing issue and had it paper tuned in short order. After that my broadheads and field tips hit the same spot. A easy way to tell if your torquing your bow at full draw is to look how the the string is coming off your cam while at full draw. If it is coming off the cam at any kind of angle then your torquing the bow.

This is true. Your form and grip are important. Also if your draw length is too long you will never get a bare shaft to tune. In other words....if your draw length is so long that when at anchor your right forearm is pointing to the right your arrow is always going to start out to the right. These are the guys you see leaning back with the string loop under their ear and their release hand back behind their head.

[adam_p]

I got tired of messing with mine this year. It is a PITA with a bowmaster. I need a better press. Remove draw stops, press bow, twist cables, un press bow, draw board, install draw stops, etc. It is a beating every time. I like working on it, it is just time consuming and time isn't something I have much of right now.

I have it pretty much dead nuts left and right, still have a nock high tear and fixed heads hitting low. I need to creep tune but don't have time. Shooting mechanicals anyway and they hit dead on out to 50.

It is much closer now than when it came home from CCR last year.

[ShockValue]

I have never had a tuned bow, in 30 years. Spine, draw weight, fixed, mechanical, rest, sight, etc., nothing ever got me putting field tips and broadheads in the same hole. Adjust to your broadheads for season. It is easier and less of a headache.

I "tune" to a certain degree, but after that I go with "close enough" and put the broadheads on, make any slight adjustments, and then I'm done.

[Daniel75]

Please define "Torquing a bow" what is it and how is it done so I can avoid it?

It's all in the grip, conventional wisdom says to hold the grip along the lifeline of your hand.

[Mojo]

got my fp and grizz tricks shooting exactly the same and on target...messed with the rest to get everything lined up...I'll never change arrows, weight of points or to a different brand bh...

[Arrowsmith]

This is a good thread right before the season. I am sure there are a lot of people struggling with their broad heads about now.

[EdO]

Scream!!!! This will drive a guy to drinking!!!!

Shoot a three shot group with your target tips at say 15 yds. Mark the spot. Shot a three shot group with your broadhead of choice. Move your arrow rest a wee bit one way or the other. Shoot another three shot group. Keep doing that until the broadheads are printing where the target tips did. Move back 10 or so yds and repeat. One more time 10 more yds back and you've got it. Repeat the process for vertical.

A mechanical rest will help a lot.

The easy way is just forget the target points and zero in your bow with broadheads. You're not going to be shooting target arrows at deer anyway. The deer ain't gonna care. Yah, I know all the technical goodies, but does it really matter. Another way is use mechanical broadheads. They'll print like target points or very close to it.

[Younggun1996]

If you really want to know what is going on with your bow you need to shoot a bare shaft. Hang a vertical string on the front of your target (stick a nail with string tied to nail with a weight on bottom of string). Stand at 3-4 ft in front of the target and fire a fletched arrow at the string. You should hit (maybe split) the string or your shaft should be touching either side of the string. If you are missing left or right gang adjust your pins or pin (if single pin sight)......yes adjust at 3 feet until you hit or split the string. Now fire the bare shaft at 3 feet. Your bare shaft will probably impact just left or right of the string. Now back up to 5 yards and fire the bare shaft. Remember....a bare shaft has no guidance, zero, zilch, nada. Your bare shaft will leave your bow in the direction it is propelled. So if your bare shaft impacts 4 inches right of the vertical string and low at 5 yards you will know that the arrow is leaving your bow pointed to the right.

How do you fix this? If you have shot thru paper and you have a decent tear or if you have walk back tuned to at least 40 yards and your arrows are hitting pretty close to either side of a vertical line then you need to yoke tune your bow. Again if your bare shaft is hitting right of the vertical string at 5 yards you need to add a half twist or possibly a twist to your left yoke and take a half twist or possibly a twist out of your right yoke. You will see your bare shaft start moving back to the left. Once you have you bare shaft and your fletched arrow hitting the string or very close move back to 10 yards and repeat process. Work your way back to 20 yards. Once you have your bare shaft and fletch shaft hitting the string or very close to it at 20 yards you have gotten your horizontal nock travel very close. Now if your bare shaft is still hitting low you may need to raise your rest (a tiny amount to start 1/64") or lower your nock or possibly take a twist out of your control cable.

When you get your fletched arrow and a bare shaft hitting in the same hole or very close at 20 yards your broad heads will fly straight and true with your field points.

This process WILL work. It takes a little time and it takes a bow press, but in the long run it will save you time and a LOT of frustration.

I will post some pics off my phone in a separate post.

Just to clarify. you add twists and take away twists on the top part of the yoke cable that is connected to the top cam only. right???

[Younggun1996]

And is there a maximum number of twists you can do to your yoke cable

[enewman]

If his bow is tuned and form is good. His arrows good also be weak. What arrow smith is saying about shooting up close then moving back with a bare shaft is how if find the dynamic spine for my arrow. If shooting to the right I start cutting the arrow down. It will move over. As the arrow gets stiffer

[Daniel75]

Grim Reapers will fly like field points anyways, you don't have to have your bow tuned up to get a mechanical to fly like you do a fixed head. I still advocate getting it tuned and having it grouping fixed heads, even if you're shooting mechs, simply because you're losing momentum when that head starts to open and you need the best flight you can get so that you get maximum penetration.