Broadhead Tuning...!

[ATI]

Been target practicing for a few months and have gotten a lot more accurate in the last few weeks. Now I'm ready to start shooting some broadheads to get ready for hunting...

I KNOW my broadheads (Grizz Trick & Grim Reaper) will NOT fly like my field tips, so here are my questions;

1. am I adjusting my sight to get the broadhead to hit my target? (this will ruin several months of adjusting)
or
2. am I adjusting my rest?


If neither,,,, then what's the best way to tune my broadheads and get them to hit as close to the bull's eye as possible?

[Fishndude]

Tune your bow not your broad heads.
Then all points should shoot the same

[jake-1024]

Unless it's already in tune, you will have to move both. Follow this chart until broadheads and field point hit the same spot then adjust your sight. Make very small adjustments.

[Mr. Whiskers]

Tune your bow not your broad heads.

This

[ATI]

Tune your bow not your broad heads.

I wasn't planning on doing anything to the broadheads...
Isn't adjusting the sight or the rest (components of the bow) tuning the bow?!

[Electrican]

If its done right you will be adjusting both the rest and sight. Take the extra time and tune your bow to hitting same POI with FP's and BH's.

[doright]

With either of those heads you may not need to do anything if your bow is tuned to start with.If it is shooting different then move the rest in the direction you want the broadhead to go but remember it doesn't take much to make a lot of difference. If you have to move anything go in very small incriments

[Arrowsmith]

If you really want to know what is going on with your bow you need to shoot a bare shaft. Hang a vertical string on the front of your target (stick a nail with string tied to nail with a weight on bottom of string). Stand at 3-4 ft in front of the target and fire a fletched arrow at the string. You should hit (maybe split) the string or your shaft should be touching either side of the string. If you are missing left or right gang adjust your pins or pin (if single pin sight)......yes adjust at 3 feet until you hit or split the string. Now fire the bare shaft at 3 feet. Your bare shaft will probably impact just left or right of the string. Now back up to 5 yards and fire the bare shaft. Remember....a bare shaft has no guidance, zero, zilch, nada. Your bare shaft will leave your bow in the direction it is propelled. So if your bare shaft impacts 4 inches right of the vertical string and low at 5 yards you will know that the arrow is leaving your bow pointed to the right.

How do you fix this? If you have shot thru paper and you have a decent tear or if you have walk back tuned to at least 40 yards and your arrows are hitting pretty close to either side of a vertical line then you need to yoke tune your bow. Again if your bare shaft is hitting right of the vertical string at 5 yards you need to add a half twist or possibly a twist to your left yoke and take a half twist or possibly a twist out of your right yoke. You will see your bare shaft start moving back to the left. Once you have you bare shaft and your fletched arrow hitting the string or very close move back to 10 yards and repeat process. Work your way back to 20 yards. Once you have your bare shaft and fletch shaft hitting the string or very close to it at 20 yards you have gotten your horizontal nock travel very close. Now if your bare shaft is still hitting low you may need to raise your rest (a tiny amount to start 1/64") or lower your nock or possibly take a twist out of your control cable.

When you get your fletched arrow and a bare shaft hitting in the same hole or very close at 20 yards your broad heads will fly straight and true with your field points.

This process WILL work. It takes a little time and it takes a bow press, but in the long run it will save you time and a LOT of frustration.

I will post some pics off my phone in a separate post.

[Fishndude]

I wasn't planning on doing anything to the broadheads...
Isn't adjusting the sight or the rest (components of the bow) tuning the bow?!

Yes but you said you were adjusting these based on what heads you were shooting. You shouldn't have to do that. Bow needs to be paper tuned at the very least so that it doesn't matter what you put I the end of your arrow.

[Arrowsmith]

Bare shaft and fletched arrow hitting together at 20 yards will get this results with your broad heads.

BTW....When I started tuning this bow the bare shaft was hitting 18" right and 4" low at 20 yards. Yoke tuning corrected this in about 20 minutes.

That is a Grizz Trick 2 on the front of the arrow in the BH target. Also I had this bow grouping at 50with field points before I started shooting broad heads. Fletching will correct errant flight with field points and most mechanicals, fixed blade broad heads will "rat out" bow tuning issues.

[GMAN]

If you really want to know what is going on with your bow you need to shoot a bare shaft. Hang a vertical string on the front of your target (stick a nail with string tied to nail with a weight on bottom of string). Stand at 3-4 ft in front of the target and fire a fletched arrow at the string. You should hit (maybe split) the string or your shaft should be touching either side of the string. If you are missing left or right gang adjust your pins or pin (if single pin sight)......yes adjust at 3 feet until you hit or split the string. Now fire the bare shaft at 3 feet. Your bare shaft will probably impact just left or right of the string. Now back up to 5 yards and fire the bare shaft. Remember....a bare shaft has no guidance, zero, zilch, nada. Your bare shaft will leave your bow in the direction it is propelled. So if your bare shaft impacts 4 inches right of the vertical string and low at 5 yards you will know that the arrow is leaving your bow pointed to the right.



How do you fix this? If you have shot thru paper and you have a decent tear or if you have walk back tuned to at least 40 yards and your arrows are hitting pretty close to either side of a vertical line then you need to yoke tune your bow. Again if your bare shaft is hitting right of the vertical string at 5 yards you need to add a half twist or possibly a twist to your left yoke and take a half twist or possibly a twist out of your right yoke. You will see your bare shaft start moving back to the left. Once you have you bare shaft and your fletched arrow hitting the string or very close move back to 10 yards and repeat process. Work your way back to 20 yards. Once you have your bare shaft and fletch shaft hitting the string or very close to it at 20 yards you have gotten your horizontal nock travel very close. Now if your bare shaft is still hitting low you may need to raise your rest (a tiny amount to start 1/64") or lower your nock or possibly take a twist out of your control cable.



When you get your fletched arrow and a bare shaft hitting in the same hole or very close at 20 yards your broad heads will fly straight and true with your field points.



This process WILL work. It takes a little time and it takes a bow press, but in the long run it will save you time and a LOT of frustration.



I will post some pics off my phone in a separate post.

This will get it done, however slick tricks typically fly perfect.

[hoyt21]

If you really want to know what is going on with your bow you need to shoot a bare shaft. Hang a vertical string on the front of your target (stick a nail with string tied to nail with a weight on bottom of string). Stand at 3-4 ft in front of the target and fire a fletched arrow at the string. You should hit (maybe split) the string or your shaft should be touching either side of the string. If you are missing left or right gang adjust your pins or pin (if single pin sight)......yes adjust at 3 feet until you hit or split the string. Now fire the bare shaft at 3 feet. Your bare shaft will probably impact just left or right of the string. Now back up to 5 yards and fire the bare shaft. Remember....a bare shaft has no guidance, zero, zilch, nada. Your bare shaft will leave your bow in the direction it is propelled. So if your bare shaft impacts 4 inches right of the vertical string and low at 5 yards you will know that the arrow is leaving your bow pointed to the right.

How do you fix this? If you have shot thru paper and you have a decent tear or if you have walk back tuned to at least 40 yards and your arrows are hitting pretty close to either side of a vertical line then you need to yoke tune your bow. Again if your bare shaft is hitting right of the vertical string at 5 yards you need to add a half twist or possibly a twist to your left yoke and take a half twist or possibly a twist out of your right yoke. You will see your bare shaft start moving back to the left. Once you have you bare shaft and your fletched arrow hitting the string or very close move back to 10 yards and repeat process. Work your way back to 20 yards. Once you have your bare shaft and fletch shaft hitting the string or very close to it at 20 yards you have gotten your horizontal nock travel very close. Now if your bare shaft is still hitting low you may need to raise your rest (a tiny amount to start 1/64") or lower your nock or possibly take a twist out of your control cable.

When you get your fletched arrow and a bare shaft hitting in the same hole or very close at 20 yards your broad heads will fly straight and true with your field points.

This process WILL work. It takes a little time and it takes a bow press, but in the long run it will save you time and a LOT of frustration.

I will post some pics off my phone in a separate post.

To correct low would u take the twist out of the bottom of the control cable?

[Speedgoat]

I have never had a tuned bow, in 30 years. Spine, draw weight, fixed, mechanical, rest, sight, etc., nothing ever got me putting field tips and broadheads in the same hole. Adjust to your broadheads for season. It is easier and less of a headache.

[Smart]

I have never had a tuned bow, in 30 years. Spine, draw weight, fixed, mechanical, rest, sight, etc., nothing ever got me putting field tips and broadheads in the same hole. Adjust to your broadheads for season. It is easier and less of a headache.

You should let somebody that knows what they are doing work on your bow.....or get away from Bowtech...

[Speedgoat]

You should let somebody that knows what they are doing work on your bow.....or get away from Bowtech...

Lol, I had a Hoyt once, once