Magnus Snuffers

[TX_Kevin]

thanks texag93 but I really wanted something resharpenable

I have taken deer with the G5 Montec, but I have had trouble getting them sharp enough for my tastes. Others love them.

I personally don't like to shoot the same broadhead twice. I am apparently trying to get one of each...

[TX_Kevin]

Killerbee, as posted above, I do in fact shoot the regular old Snuffers as do many of my hunting buddies. I shoot the 125 gr. screw in's out of a switchback at 70# peak draw weight. I shoot GT7597 camo's with all white blazer vanes, and they fly perfect. I was leary about shooting that big head with the small vanes, but had absolutely no problems. They cut the target exactly like my 125 gr field points every time. My son and I shoot the same setup except his bow is right handed, and mine is a lefty. Over the years, I've tried just about evey kind of head I could, but I have always gone back to the Snuffer for several reasons. (1) Out of a well tuned bow, they fly just fine. (2) Since Magnus bought the snuffer product line, the quality has been excellent. (3) There ain't nothing out there on the market today (rage included) that puts down a better blood trail than a snuffer. (4) On a well placed shot, a field point will kill an animal, but on marginal shots, your chance of causing enough hemmorage/tissue damage to make a recoverable kill is as good or better than most with a snuffer than anything else out there. (5) They have a no questions asked, lifetime warranty. I save my damaged heads until I have half a dozen and then send them back to Magnus. Earlier this year, just before Thanksgiving, I sent 6 old heads back, and 7 days later I got a brand new 6 pack in the mail! I had put a note in the package on the return asking for information as to how to get some of the short hollow inserts the heads come standard with for spares, and there was a bag of half a dozen free inserts in the return package... that's customer service at it's best! (6) and least important of all reasons, they are about the cheapest head out there. I finally got a system down to sharpen them to where in less than 1 hour, I can have a brand new package of them (6 heads) scary sharp. I got me a 4" belt sander from Sears with a 120 grit coarse belt. I take the new heads and lay it flat on the belt sander with light pressure and sand two edges at a time just enough to take out the original tool marks off the head's cutting surfaces. Do it evenly on all three flats. Put the head on the belt sander with the point facing toward the oncoming belt surface. In other words, if you let go of the head, it would fly off the belt with the back side of the head first. One important note to remember when doing this is to hold the head with your hand, and when it starts to get too hot to hold, douse it in a cup of water. You do not want to get the head any hotter than you can hold. Once all cutting surfaces are evenly dressed so that no original tool marks are on the head, move to a coarse diamond flat hone. The one I use is a DMT, but any brand will do. I manually stroke each flat (two cutting surfaces at a time) 10 strokes each, pushing the head across the hone point first, then after all three sides are done 10 times, I repeat with 5 strokes, then 2, then 1. I use moderate pressure when doing this until I get to the one stroke cycle. Then I lighten up the pressure. I then switch to a fine hone and repeat the strokes starting at 5 per side. After you finish this, it should be shaving sharp. If it needs a finish stroke, I use a round hone steel, still pushing the head across the steel on two blades at a time from point to heel of the head. Sorry to be so long-winded with this, but if you spin test and tune each head before you start this process and get them spinning true (with a spinner not standing the arrow on the point and twirlling it), then sharpen them just like this, you'll have some true flying, killing arras!

..........waitin' on LDP's!!!!

I don't suppose we could talk you into a video of that, could we? That could help a lot of us.

[Tommyh]

I have a brand new pack he can do it on too

[SaltwaterSlick]

...Tell you what, I'll try to video it in the offseason, but Chew will have to make it into something small enough to post... my video editing ain't what it should be, but Chew is a whiz with his Idiot-proof Apple...

[Spike]

My quiver is loaded with the 125gr Snuffers.I haven't had a chance to use them yet,but I must say they do fly just like my 125gr field points using 2" blazer vanes and that was a surprise to me too.I too was wanting something I could resharpen and Snuffers have been around for over 25 years,so that says something about them.Another thought was,I feel the carbon steel may hold a sharper edge and not dull as quickly as SS blades passing though an animal,thus it may produce a better bloodtrail.I was not pleased with the results I got sharpening them with a file like Magnus recommended.They just didn't seem to be as sharp as I liked for them to be.I figured I couldn't go wrong as long as I got them shaving sharp on my sharpening stone.I had good luck getting them shaving sharp by going side to side,much like sharpening a knife and rotating the head after each side to side stroke.After sharpening,I put a light coat of mineral oil on the blades to keep them from rusting before storing the away in my quiver.

[SaltwaterSlick]

They will definately stay sharp better if you coat the head with oil after you sharpen it. I have done it 2 ways. For years, after shaprening was done, I'd just lightly and CAREFULLY rub my finger across each cutting surface with vaseline petroleum jelly, but lately, after they're ready for the quiver or arrow box, I dip them in cooking oil, let them drain a few minutes, then either stick them in my quiver or put them in an arrow box. both ways works for me. This will prevent oxidation of the carbon steel (That's what causes them to become dull just sitting in a box/quiver.) and it will lube your quiver good making for a quieter removal when the time comes.

[killerbee]

thank you saltwaterslick for the advice.