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    Magnus Snuffers

    Has anyone had any sucess using these broadheads,was a muzzy man for years thinking of making a change.

    #2
    I shoot the 125 gr. some and have been real pleased with their flight. Haven't really taken any game with them so I can't help you there. I think SaltwaterSlick shoots them and he kills lots of things.
    >E
    Last edited by aironeout; 01-10-2008, 09:17 PM. Reason: f

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      #3
      what kind of bow do you shoot, I shoot a matthews sbxt

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        #4
        Try the Slick Tricks if you are looking to change. I don't think you will be disappointed in the performance or the price.

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          #5
          I shoot a hoyt that is set at 48lbs due to a bad shoulder which is why I like the cut on contact head. I just switched to the NAP hellrazors because of a slightly larger cut. The NAPs are probably some of the sharpest out of the box heads that I have ever tried. The razorcaps aren't bad but I didn't care for the aluminum ferrule and the elongated head design I have pretty much given all of these to my brother since he really likes them.
          >E

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            #6
            thanks texag93 but I really wanted somthing resharpenable

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              #7
              I shoot the 125gr Snuffers as well thanks to SaltwaterSlick and like the larger cutting diameter at 1 5/16". flies well and no balancing issues from my setup. theyre lifetime guaranteed and cut on contact. the hardest part is getting them to the sharp stage the 1st time. after that, it's easy as pie.

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                #8
                Originally posted by killerbee View Post
                thanks texag93 but I really wanted somthing resharpenable

                I resharpen my ST's to sharp as new when needed.

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                  #9
                  they seem to shoot well thru my setup, I went with larger vanes with a helical twist. I am mainly concerned with their killing ability and the presence of a well defined blood trail.

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                    #10
                    they fly great , sharpen easy , leave great blood trails and they are cheap @ 22.00-24.00 per 6 pak , the warranty is great too

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                      #11
                      I have killed a train car load of stuff with the big Snuffer...1-9/16" cut. my only problem with them was I could get them sharp and a week later they would be dull. I switched to a stainless head

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                        #12
                        Snuffer SS would be a good broadhead to change over to, if you set on that style of bh.

                        The Stinger and BuzzCuts would also be a broadhead to look at if you are thinking about changing over.

                        All of these can be resharpened and if not, or if you damage them, send them back for a free replacement...Life Time Guarantee!

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                          #13
                          Forgot to add that the one's I shoot are the SS's.
                          >E

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                            #14
                            Killerbee, as posted above, I do in fact shoot the regular old Snuffers as do many of my hunting buddies. I shoot the 125 gr. screw in's out of a switchback at 70# peak draw weight. I shoot GT7597 camo's with all white blazer vanes, and they fly perfect. I was leary about shooting that big head with the small vanes, but had absolutely no problems. They cut the target exactly like my 125 gr field points every time. My son and I shoot the same setup except his bow is right handed, and mine is a lefty. Over the years, I've tried just about evey kind of head I could, but I have always gone back to the Snuffer for several reasons. (1) Out of a well tuned bow, they fly just fine. (2) Since Magnus bought the snuffer product line, the quality has been excellent. (3) There ain't nothing out there on the market today (rage included) that puts down a better blood trail than a snuffer. (4) On a well placed shot, a field point will kill an animal, but on marginal shots, your chance of causing enough hemmorage/tissue damage to make a recoverable kill is as good or better than most with a snuffer than anything else out there. (5) They have a no questions asked, lifetime warranty. I save my damaged heads until I have half a dozen and then send them back to Magnus. Earlier this year, just before Thanksgiving, I sent 6 old heads back, and 7 days later I got a brand new 6 pack in the mail! I had put a note in the package on the return asking for information as to how to get some of the short hollow inserts the heads come standard with for spares, and there was a bag of half a dozen free inserts in the return package... that's customer service at it's best! (6) and least important of all reasons, they are about the cheapest head out there. I finally got a system down to sharpen them to where in less than 1 hour, I can have a brand new package of them (6 heads) scary sharp. I got me a 4" belt sander from Sears with a 120 grit coarse belt. I take the new heads and lay it flat on the belt sander with light pressure and sand two edges at a time just enough to take out the original tool marks off the head's cutting surfaces. Do it evenly on all three flats. Put the head on the belt sander with the point facing toward the oncoming belt surface. In other words, if you let go of the head, it would fly off the belt with the back side of the head first. One important note to remember when doing this is to hold the head with your hand, and when it starts to get too hot to hold, douse it in a cup of water. You do not want to get the head any hotter than you can hold. Once all cutting surfaces are evenly dressed so that no original tool marks are on the head, move to a coarse diamond flat hone. The one I use is a DMT, but any brand will do. I manually stroke each flat (two cutting surfaces at a time) 10 strokes each, pushing the head across the hone point first, then after all three sides are done 10 times, I repeat with 5 strokes, then 2, then 1. I use moderate pressure when doing this until I get to the one stroke cycle. Then I lighten up the pressure. I then switch to a fine hone and repeat the strokes starting at 5 per side. After you finish this, it should be shaving sharp. If it needs a finish stroke, I use a round hone steel, still pushing the head across the steel on two blades at a time from point to heel of the head. Sorry to be so long-winded with this, but if you spin test and tune each head before you start this process and get them spinning true (with a spinner not standing the arrow on the point and twirlling it), then sharpen them just like this, you'll have some true flying, killing arras!

                            ..........waitin' on LDP's!!!!

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                              #15
                              sorry, one other thing since you mentioned you want a head you can sharpen, these regular snuffers (carbon steel) are a lot easier to sharpen than the stainless verisons, and the stainless versions are way more susceptible to breaking rather than bending. After shooting a snuffer through an animal, if a blade is bent, as long as it is not too severe, I straighten and respin test, and use them over and over.

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