Originally posted by andre3k
View Post
-
Ok. I have a guy in San Marcos that has done all of mine in the past but that is a long way from you. -
Bumping this one back up. I sent my tilt cylinders off to the shop that Quackerbox recommended. They did a great job btw.
I decided to try my hand with the lift cylinders. I was able to reseal one cylinder no issues at all. Left side lift cylinder rod is bent. I think this contributed to the seal failure. My options are trying to find a shop to straighten it, have a new rod machined, or purchase a new OEM one (if available) for about $500 shipped.
I'm not sure if it's even worth trying to straighten it. Most budget friendly recommendation?Comment
-
Price the OEM cylinder first. I think that you will be surprised how crazy high it will be. Then find a good hydraulic repair shop and let them take a look at what you have. Since you already have it apart, there shouldn't be any charge to get an estimated cost of repair. The last new OEM cylinder that I priced was a few years ago. It was a curl cylinder on a John Deere 521 loader. If memory serves, it was around $1,400. It wouldn't surprise me to find that it is now over $2,000. A third option is to look around and see if there happens to be any off the shelf cylinders available that are within an inch or so on the compressed and extended length of the OEM cylinder. If you get lucky on those measurements, next check the bore for the pins. That is likely where your idea will get shot down. It is worth checking out though. I got lucky a few years back and bought a pair of cylinders for a Phelps truck dumper. They were four stage, probably had about a 10" tube, 3" pins, collapsed length of about six feet, and an extended length of seventeen or so feet. I bought them through one of my materials handling suppliers for $1600 each. You never know until to do a little research.Comment
-
This is a Gehl Skid Steer so there's only a few dealers in Texas, none of which are local to me. I will call around to get a price on a new rod. The cylinder doesn't appear to be damaged, although I was able to find a used complete cylinder for $400 shipped. A local hydraulic shop I contacted said they can turn a new rod on their lathe with a two day turnaround. I have no idea on the cost for that, but I'll find out today.Originally posted by 60 Deluxe View PostComment
-
Anything hydraulic that has an opposing cylinder needs to have both of them rebuilt at the same time. The one not rebuilt will fail in short order. In my experience it always works that way. Lot's easier to bite the bullet and get both done.Comment
-
M16 is right! I had a cylinder rebuilt on my loader and the tech said get ready for the other one to fail. Sure enough, the first time I used it the other one went out.Comment
-
The other cylinder went together without issue. I was in the process of doing this one when I found out the rod was bent.Originally posted by deep n the heat View PostComment
-
Order the new rod for 500 or complete one for 400 used. Probably the best option you will find. You will be in a new rod i bet 3-400 easy made new.
Houston pricing seems a little more competitive thought then our area.Comment
-
I was able to order a new rod, piston and gland cap for $450 from a dealer in PA. The piston and gland cap were boogered up pretty good, so I ordered new ones. The local hydraulic shop charges $250 to machine a new rod, so that was an option as well.Originally posted by dclifton View PostComment
-
Century could have machined a new rod alsoComment
-
I have had three rebuilt on my tractor FEL. They were $150 each with the shop providing the seals. One year warranty.Comment
-
Got the new rod and seals installed. Overall it was a pretty easy job. I did have to buy a 1 1/2" socket to get the piston nut off and you'll lose about a gallon of hydraulic fluid.
if you have someone affordable to do it I would go that route. But if you have more time than money it's an easy DIY project.Comment
Comment