In all seriousness...

[Mac...]

Sorry...maybe you could suggest it? I thought we was trying to save bandwidth...or whatever its called these days!

Lol, gotta love the TBH brotherhood! No saving when it comes to the GS

[CletusBodeen]

Nothing against rage or mechanicals in general, bit if you prefer a fixed blade bh look at the slick tricks. They are tough and will fly the same as a field tip. I switched from muzzy mx3 to slick tricks for the same reason your wanting to switch. I have 3 slick tricks and 2 g5 T3's in my quiver.


Sent from my iCrapper

[Tubby]

IMO, a well placed field tip will kill a deer.
^^^ I'm not saying "try it!"
So I'm leaning more towards rage just for accuracy purposes.
The thing I hate, is that if and when there's a pas thru, the ground damaging the $15 head.....

This is the WRONG reason to pick a broadhead.

The FIRST thing you need to do is have your bow checked to make sure it's in tune.

If you're having that inconsistent of shots with the Muzzys, (flying all over the target), you've got more issues than them not flying the same as a field tip.

When I shot them, they grouped TIGHT but in a different spot than my field tips.

[unclefish]

I think Rocky definitely has a point with the fletching. The more helical the better when I shoot fixed heads (Slick Tricks).

My Slick Tricks don't fly as good with Blazer's...especially at 40-50 yards. The spin of a 4 degree or full helical shrinks those broadhead groups alot!

That being said I'm shooting a Rage this year for the first time. For elk and deer.

[Patton]

I'm sticking with G5 Montec CS 100 grain, fixed blade, thick and razor sharp. I've hit rocks and still use those tips

[rocky]

This is the WRONG reason to pick a broadhead.

The FIRST thing you need to do is have your bow checked to make sure it's in tune.

If you're having that inconsistent of shots with the Muzzys, (flying all over the target), you've got more issues than them not flying the same as a field tip.

When I shot them, they grouped TIGHT but in a different spot than my field tips.

I don't think it's wrong toi use a mechanical for accuracy problems, if all other options have been exhausted.
In bowhunting, shot placement trumps everything.

[unclefish]

This is the WRONG reason to pick a broadhead.

The FIRST thing you need to do is have your bow checked to make sure it's in tune.

If you're having that inconsistent of shots with the Muzzys, (flying all over the target), you've got more issues than them not flying the same as a field tip.

When I shot them, they grouped TIGHT but in a different spot than my field tips.

He said he had a pro shop try and tune it. The fact is that some bows will never tune well with broadheads. That reason why he is thinking of switching is completely valid.....we owe it to the animals to be accurate.

[Bonesplitter]

I don't think it's wrong toi use a mechanical for accuracy problems, if all other options have been exhausted.
In bowhunting, shot placement trumps everything.

Spoken like a true genius!

[Tubby]

I don't think it's wrong toi use a mechanical for accuracy problems, if all other options have been exhausted.
In bowhunting, shot placement trumps everything.

^^ "if" being the main thing.

And I agree 100% on the shot placement. But isn't it better to have a strong placement than a handicapped placement? WITHOUT testing all other options...

[Bonesplitter]

Mac the buck in my avatar was taken with a rage at 30 yard's slightly quartering to me and he didnt make it 30 yard's after the shot. The other side was NOT camera friendly!

[Texas Grown]

Shafts been squared on both ends, check.
All nocks oriented to spine of shaft, check.
Broadheads spin tested on shafts, check.
Highest possible off-set or helical of fletch for the most spin possible, check.
Nocks are in good shape and slightly loose on serving when nocked, but "snap" off with good pressure, check.......

[Tubby]

He said he had a pro shop try and tune it. The fact is that some bows will never tune well with broadheads. That reason why he is thinking of switching is completely valid.....we owe it to the animals to be accurate.

Sorry, missed his post saying he'd taken it to a pro shop. My apologies.

I'm not against switching broadheads, I "tried" to shoot Muzzy's years ago w/ my old bow. Had to sight my bow in again. Never did fly the same as field tips. Bow was tuned as well. (MQ1). Gave them away and never looked back.

I agree we owe to the animals to be the best of our own and our equipment's ability.

[bowmech]

I shoot Muzzys 100 3 blades, and they hit the same as field points.
As far as bow goes i shoot a bowtech Destroyer 350 and it is tuned professionally by West Houston Archery. I bet you , if Muzzys don't fly straight you have a tuning issue!

[rocky]

^^ "if" being the main thing.

And I agree 100% on the shot placement. But isn't it better to have a strong placement than a handicapped placement? WITHOUT testing all other options...

I kinda think my post explains everything, unless I'm not understanding your question.
Contrary to what some people are led to believe, not all bows will shoot fixed heads,(regardless of brand), and FP in the same spot.
In these cases, if your arrow is flying straight, and grouping well, but not together, you have two options.
Move sights to BH, or shoot mechanicals.
If this happens with one of my bows, I'm not scared of mechanicals, because I know they'll hit where I hold my pin.

[Tubby]

I kinda think my post explains everything, unless I'm not understanding your question.
Contrary to what some people are led to believe, not all bows will shoot fixed heads,(regardless of brand), and FP in the same spot.
In these cases, if your arrow is flying straight, and grouping well, but not together, you have two options.
Move sights to BH, or shoot mechanicals.
If this happens with one of my bows, I'm not scared of mechanicals, because I know they'll hit where I hold my pin.

What do you do in a situation where mechanicals are NOT allowed and your fixed blades are flying all over the place?