I have used a Lansky for years and it does a great job but it very time consuming. I'm an amateur knife maker and will spend several hours working on a new edge. My diamond stones cost about 1/2 of the Work Sharp when I have to replace them. I figured I would give the Work Sharp a try. I ordered the Work Sharp yesterday from WoodCraft. I paid for expedited shipping and it should be delivered tomorrow or Friday. I have 3 damascus drop points that I am working on. They should put the Work Sharp to task and I will let everybody know what I think.
Please do!
I'm curious about how accurate the guides are for making the edge a long lasting edge AND how much metal this takes off the blade everytime you sharpen.
I have used a Lansky for years and it does a great job but it very time consuming. I'm an amateur knife maker and will spend several hours working on a new edge. My diamond stones cost about 1/2 of the Work Sharp when I have to replace them. I figured I would give the Work Sharp a try. I ordered the Work Sharp yesterday from WoodCraft. I paid for expedited shipping and it should be delivered tomorrow or Friday. I have 3 damascus drop points that I am working on. They should put the Work Sharp to task and I will let everybody know what I think.
I'm interested, post up once you get it. I'm challenged when it comes to getting a good edge on a knife with a traditional stone.
I got mine in yesterday. I am impressed. It is better than my others and that includes a warthog, but it does require power. It is very easy to change the belts.
I received the Work Sharp on Friday along with a replacement set of belts. The machine is built very well and is still light weight. It comes with an instruction booklet and DVD but is very intuitive.
This first photo is of the edge after blade profiling and before using the Work Sharp. The edge is aproximately 1/16 inch thick at this point.
This next photo is after using the Work Sharp system. I first used the 80 grit belt for 10 strokes on each side. Then I moved to the 200 grit belt for 10 strokes and finally to the 6000 grit for 10 strokes.
The final edge is very sharp and will easily shave.
So what does this mean? My personal opinion is that this sharpener is well worth the money and will save me a considerable amount of time. However, it does not give me the mirrored edge that I prefer like my Lansky does. Instead, the Work Sharp leaves micro-serrations. That actually may be a bonus for skinning knives and most utility knives. The Work Sharp would probably benefit from an additional belt somewhere between 200 and 6000 grit to polish the edge more. Hopefully you can see the micro-serrations in the picture. Below is one of my knives that was finished with the Lansky and you can see the highly polished edge. In the future I will probably first use the Work Sharp and then do a final polish with the Lansky and match the bevels.
I still think the Work Sharp will work faster and produce a sharper edge than anything else I have seen. I definitely reccomend it for anyone in the market for a new sharpener.
I've got that knife above sitting here beside me, Keith. It's shaving sharp. I love my ol' Lansky, but it does take a while to get to shaving sharp - especially the first time you use it on a knife when you need to set the angle on the bevels. The 2nd time is much easier and faster when it just needs to be touched up.
Question....do the angles match on the Lansky and the Work Sharp? Is 20 degrees (or whichever angle) the exact same on each?
Definately interested in this, expecially for the time savings aspect of it. I love my Lansky, but it takes too long to get a really good edge, and I don't like it on long blades.
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