Back when I shot a bow with wheels, I used a good drop rest, small cutting diameter broadhead (sliktrik, rocket bacon skinner, or Montec- all 100 grains) and an arrow that was correct spine for my bow (Mathews Switchback at 65lbs.) But the most important thing is your form. Shoot with bad form when you're in a good position (target shooting at home), you'll shoot worse form when you find yourself in a position that is not so good (pop up blind, sitting on a trail for hrs on knees, or shooting around branches).
One more thing, tuning takes time, the "pro" you get to tune your bow isn't out in the brush with your bow, you are!! You should know everything about your bow. Its a long time between hunting seasons, more than enough time to do it yourself and get it right.
I hear you loud and clear...... but what if you are new to the sport and you do not know how to tune your bow correctly? This is when you take it to the PRO and have it tuned. I would love for someone on here to show me everything I need to know and how to tune a bow. Thanks for your tip.
I hear you loud and clear...... but what if you are new to the sport and you do not know how to tune your bow correctly? This is when you take it to the PRO and have it tuned. I would love for someone on here to show me everything I need to know and how to tune a bow. Thanks for your tip.
A pro-shop can "tune" a bow, ( make sure that all parts are working properly, arrow is spined properly, all parts are compatible, and rest is somewhat centered), BUT, the shooters hand position will determine final resting place for center-shot where BH's and FP's impact same spot.
In other words, where my sweet spot is could be different than where yours is. Hand position and improper fletching are the two biggest problems to overcome when trying to get BH's to fly well.
Information about tuning is out there, as is info about fletching that is best for broadhead flight.
I'm amazed at the number of bowhunters that don't dive deeper into broadhead tuning.
Comment